Dangerous Game Scope

[mark-hunter]

I have IR on Zeiss, and on Meopta, and on Vortex and on Swaro Z6.

For Zeiss (diavary), Meopta R2, Vortex, to switch the light on I have to move left turret on the scope which can also be used as a dimmer.
For Zeiss must pull out the turret knob to activate the function.

As it turns out to be: batteries life on these three are short compared to Swaro, becasue sometimes illuminated reticle remains on (I forget to switch off), or switches on (possibly) during transport, or is simply my user failure to switch off.
As a result, battery life is short. This is agronomy.

On Swaro Z6, the swiitch is perfect FOR ME because I can see position of switch and I know exactly is it on or off, without looking through the scope, (looking through the scope to check status of light is PIA for me - yes there are some markings on the turret on other scops, like dots or similar, but still i look inside everytime)

So, on other three scopes, to control the status, I have to look through the scope, and eventually play with turret switch. and visually check again.
So, for me ergonomicall solution is better on Swaro.

But this is actually personal preference not a device or design fault. All in all, I used IR very rarely in the field, so this issue is of minor importance for me. I can think of very few animals that I took by using Ir in late dusk.
Once the animal is taken, I can also take my time to play with switches.

 

[BeeMaa]

True 1x at low power
Illuminated reticle
Reticle is not "busy"
Lowest possible mounting
Mount is high quality QD
Straight tube design
Highest quality glass you can afford

Lots of scopes fit this bill. Leupold VX-5HD or Trijicon AccuPoint are what I would consider good starting points and up from there to Leica, Zeiss and Swaro. Depends on your wallet.

IMO - the most important is the illuminated reticle. Being able to see the dot on a dark animal who is under the shade of a tree is worth the price of admission.

Swaro Z8i 1-8x24 (rail mount) is my preferred scope for both DG and PG. Plenty of scope for 50 to 300 plus yards and much further than that if I practiced more.

 

[Philip Glass]

I have several Leupold's in VX3HD, VX5HD, and VX6HD. I just bought a new .458 lott, and I need to buy a new scope. My Leupold's have always performed well, but I want to try something new. Any recommendations? I want something in that 1.5-5X or 1-6X range that has an illuminated reticle. Was thinking about one of the Meopta's, trying to spend less than a grand on this one. Would be nice to find something with a 20, 24, or 30mm tube - that way I can move scopes around a bit.

If it's a true DG scope I'd consider upping the budget. Your Leupolds will fit the bill. I have the VX 6 2-12X and find it to be of the most versatile. You don't gain anything between 1-2X but a big benefit on the top end.

 

[HankBuck]

I have IR on Zeiss, and on Meopta, and on Vortex and on Swaro Z6.

For Zeiss (diavary), Meopta R2, Vortex, to switch the light on I have to move left turret on the scope which can also be used as a dimmer.
For Zeiss must pull out the turret knob to activate the function.

As it turns out to be: batteries life on these three are short compared to Swaro, becasue sometimes illuminated reticle remains on (I forget to switch off), or switches on (possibly) during transport, or is simply my user failure to switch off.
As a result, battery life is short. This is agronomy.

On Swaro Z6, the swiitch is perfect FOR ME because I can see position of switch and I know exactly is it on or off, without looking through the scope, (looking through the scope to check status of light is PIA for me - yes there are some markings on the turret on other scops, like dots or similar, but still i look inside everytime)

So, on other three scopes, to control the status, I have to look through the scope, and eventually play with turret switch. and visually check again.
So, for me ergonomicall solution is better on Swaro.

But this is actually personal preference not a device or design fault. All in all, I used IR very rarely in the field, so this issue is of minor importance for me. I can think of very few animals that I took by using Ir in late dusk.
Once the animal is taken, I can also take my time to play with switches.

I just have an inherent distrust of any scope that requires a battery and it is based on a “bias” not any factual evidence. I avoided scopes with illuminated reticles for years even though I was regularly hunting at night for coyotes - where an illuminated reticle really helps. I eventually bought a Trijicon Accupoint that uses tritium gas & fiber optics (last 10 years then replaced free by Trijicon). They might not be the brightest or most adjustable (mine still bright after 8 years) compared to battery reliant models - but 100% reliable. I’m sure other hunters that are extremely diligent and replace batteries early have no worries and may never experience a failure (dead battery) - I’m just not that organized....I worry about missing an opportunity at a coyote so the thought of missing out on a chance at a real trophy (leopard etc..) would keep me awake.

 

[mark-hunter]

I just have an inherent distrust of any scope that requires a battery and it is based on a “bias” not any factual evidence.

me too.
I prefer compass, rather then GPS.
I prefer analog, rather then digital.
Mobile phone I consider a luxury, but not necessity.

With scopes, I dont trust their batteries, and IR functions. but the worst case scenario if battery dies, I will still have analog crosshairs. (so its not that bad)
This also means, I am not a fan of NV scopes. Especially NV with 'special type batteries", non obtainable in general product shops and electrical shops.

As NV is must have for some hunting occasions, my NV at least have AA batteries. And I always have spare, double qty.

 

[Beck]

If you don’t mind me sliding your thread in a completely different direction, I would say this.

I’d rather own the cheapest, crappiest scope listed on the options list above than to own the best one in the wrong mounts.

Low or ultra-low scope rings for perfect centering of the sight picture instantaneously is going to result in a lot more properly shot game than having the best glass. I would wager 99% of high-end rifle owners in the USA have irrelevantly good glass in light of their pathetically incorrect mounts and rings.

How fast can you make a perfect shot is the real question, the answers we are all assuming relate to glass which is the 2nd most important consideration.

I am strictly a Talley guy. I had their rings and bases on my 9.3 x 62 during my lake based bear hunt on Reindeer lake in Saskatchewan. Reindeer is a very large a rough lake, that gun/scope took an absolute pounding - never had any issues.

 

[Beck]

I would add to that the cardinal rule is to keep your scope on lowest variable settings and get used to finding the target quickly. Get setup to dry fire and do some practice following through without moving the reticle and reloading quickly. Also if the PH tells you to get on the sticks then do it quickly and quietly…or slowly and quietly depending on the situation. Get used to finding the animal in your scope, not going back and forth with your binos and rifle. There’s a lot to be said for how you handle your binos and rifle around game. Be ready to fire when the animal presents itself. It won’t last long and might be your only opportunity!

Practice off of sticks!

 

[Green Chile]

After guns/loads are sighted in at home, I don't go back to the bench unless I want to check the zero. From then on, it's shooting positions only and a lot of that is from the sticks...and that can have a lot of variations. Good example is from my recent trip. I shot the buff from the sticks, standing in a normal fashion but had to move quickly in last light. The croc was shot with me sitting on the ground, shooting through a hole in the bush in front of us across to the croc about 40 yards from us that was sleeping beside the water. I needed a really steady shot so I used the side of the shooting sticks and wrapped my off hand around the sticks, putting my rifle on top of my off hand and holding it with my thumb on the side. Then I asked the PH to lean into my back to give me a steadier position and I put just enough weight to load the sticks like a bipod. That worked out great but you have to be ready to use anything to help you build the best shooting position you have. Sometimes you have more time but often you have only seconds.

 

[shootist~]

My vote would be a Trjicon Accupoint.

Another plus one.
1x6 30mm. Mine is the mil-dot version.

 

[Brian]

Those are all good suggestions above, I think, but they are not for me.
458WM means mostly under 100yds. and long eye relief. On big bores I use red/green dot reflex sight or Leopold 2.5 or peep sight.

 

[Green Chile]

That’s one of the reasons why the Swaro EE model is so valued. Still I use the 1-6x on my 458 Lott and prefer that over any fixed scope. Good thing is there are options for every opinion.

 

[Green Chile]

Just got it mounted...Swaro Z8i 1-8x, Dakota Model 10, 7x57

 

[ftrovato]

I prefer using classic glass ... for the romance factor. You know, like one of those bourbon drinking double gunner guys. My Mauser 98 404 Jeff is topped with a 1972 Weaver K3. But it has tapered crosshairs: top shelf technology back then. No need for lighted reticle. I'm not shooting at dangerous game in twilight conditions!

I agree with your views on classic scopes, The old weavers were fantastic! I'm an old school Leupold guy for several reasons. In addition to being a quality product with a world class warranty (not that I ever needed the warranty) the VX I, VX II & VX III were/are lite in weight. In my opinion, some of the modern premium scopes change the balance of a fine gun and make the rifle top heavy and feeling slow in ones hands. I've never run out of lite with these scopes and objectives between 32 to 40mm. But that's just me. To each their own.

 

[WAB]

Just got it mounted...Swaro Z8i 1-8x, Dakota Model 10, 7x57View attachment 548510
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IMO that is the perfect scope for that rifle!

 

[Brian]

I have used the old weaver "K" scopes in Africa. I found that the worked great until the dust in a dry year gets on the lenses and greatly degrades the picture. That doesn't happen nearly as bad on a newer scope. I think it is because of the excellent modern lense coatings, Just a guess.

I have also used the best in scopes too. They definitely have amazing clarity/quality. I just can't afford them! And they are just way over the top for my old-school style of hunting buffalo at close range with a single shot big bore.
On my .577NE they have too short of an eye relief, cut my face in recoil. ( however, If I could afford those kind of scopes I would probably find one that I like. )

My favourite optic lately now for big bores is my Holosun green dot. What ever blows your hair back. Brian

 

[Mark Biggerstaff]

Just got it mounted...Swaro Z8i 1-8x, Dakota Model 10, 7x57View attachment 548510
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Looks perfect for that rifle! Good luck on your next safari with it!

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I have used the old weaver "K" scopes in Africa. I found that the worked great until the dust in a dry year gets on the lenses and greatly degrades the picture. That doesn't happen nearly as bad on a newer scope. I think it is because of the excellent modern lense coatings, Just a guess.

I have also used the best in scopes too. They definitely have amazing clarity/quality. I just can't afford them! And they are just way over the top for my old-school style of hunting buffalo at close range with a single shot big bore.
On my .577NE they have too short of an eye relief, cut my face in recoil. ( however, If I could afford those kind of scopes I would probably find one that I like. )

My favourite optic lately now for big bores is my Holosun green dot. What ever blows your hair back. Brian

Hmmm. I rub down my reloading stuff with a dryer anti-static sheet to help keep powder from sticking (especially funnels and drop tube on shotgun loader). I wonder if anyone has tried this with lenses on optics?

 

[Brian]

Interesting, I have never tried it. I am a bit sceptical, though. The fine dust settles on the lenses and the sun reflects off of it making it very hard to see through. ( Belgium Browning .338 and new model Winchester M70 in 375HH. Both rifles remain in Africa and we replaced the old weaver scopes with new Leupolds and the problem went away. (I don't use these rifles anymore but my son's use them.) Brian

 

[ftrovato]

Just got it mounted...Swaro Z8i 1-8x, Dakota Model 10, 7x57View attachment 548510
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Beautiful! Happy shooting and hunting!

 

[Green Chile]

Hmmm. I rub down my reloading stuff with a dryer anti-static sheet to help keep powder from sticking (especially funnels and drop tube on shotgun loader). I wonder if anyone has tried this with lenses on optics?

I would not rub chemical sheets on optical lenses. They are also scratchy with those fibers. I only rub them with those soft fabrics for cleaning eye glasses. There are some sprays that are supposed to help with dust, etc and you could use that with the soft cloth for cleaning optics. I also usually have a little soft lens pen or brush to clean the edges, etc.