cerekote vs.....

[Philip Glass]

Alright so anyone who knows about cerakote has seen their cerakote vs. series, well I believe its complete BS. I tried Cerakoted for the first time and immediately chipped it off my barrel. Apparently, this is the strongest finish out there. However, bluing seemed to hold up better in the past; although, bluing is not my preferred choice for this rifle. Does anyone have any other coating recommendations?

There is a lot to do with the technician who does the coating. I have a few ceracoated but have not really hunted hard with them yet to see if there are issues.
There are so many new finishes for guns I can’t keep up. I hope to read more about this.

 

[7MAG]

There is a lot to do with the technician who does the coating. I have a few ceracoated but have not really hunted hard with them yet to see if there are issues.
There are so many new finishes for guns I can’t keep up. I hope to read more about this.

I was very disappointed with the cerakote. I had it don’t by a well known coater. However, I can’t put all the blame on him, as I haven’t been entirely gentle. My expectation of cerakote was the result of nitride. I thought it was forced into the the metal as nitride is. I will say you wouldn’t be able to scratch the coating off with your nail, but If you tapped it against another metal surface just right it would chip. From my understanding, nitride is impossible to chip as it is not an actual coating it is forced into the metal with acid. After some research I also found that it’s impossible to only cover the outside surface. Every thread and groove of your muzzle and Bore, as well as your chamber will be coated. I don’t know what steps the applicator will take to prep your chamber and bore…..

 

[lockingblock]

I somewhat like ceracoat...and I kinda hate it.

I am shocked at the number of companies that will ceracoat a carbon steel rifle. That's just silly...it still rusts, just inside the bore and action.

Ceracoat is really just a durable version of paint. It's not magic. It's also a poor substitute for an actual metal treatment like Nitride, melonite, or coatings like Roguard, NP3, and so on.

This is one thing that I believe Mauser (and Rigby by default) is doing very well- they Nitride instead of blue. Those rifles will be around forever.

 

[rdog]

No experience with it other than seeing a few.

Years ago there was a proccess called Parkerising. Is this still done?aybe another option

Parkerising is a process using phosphoric acid, mostly used on military firearms it gives a light grey to green surface finish, very durable but not very attractive, it is still used on carbon steel. With Cerakote a ceramic paint you can have alloy, stainless, & carbon steel all the same colour there are 2 types of Cerakote H series heat cure 2 hours at 120 C, & C series air dry, the H series is 2 pack it uses a hardener in the mix you can alter the sheen on the finish with the hardener ratio, done correctly it is very durable

 

[Louis Toadvine]

I've had a good experience thus far with the Mannox coatings that come stock on newer Steyr Mannlicher rifles. I think Mannox is a proprietary process for Steyr, but I've read that it's essentially an acid nitriding process. I'm no metallurgist, but as stated above, I guess nitriding is considered more durable because it's not a typical coating--it actually penetrates the metal. Steyr touts Mannox as essentially impervious to corrosion.

It doesn't have the same aesthetic pop as polished bluing, but in my opinion has a nicer and cleaner look than parkerizing and I actually like it better than stainless. If you can find someone to do an aftermarket nitriding, I'd go for it.

 

[C.W. Richter]

I was very disappointed with the cerakote. I had it don’t by a well known coater. However, I can’t put all the blame on him, as I haven’t been entirely gentle. My expectation of cerakote was the result of nitride. I thought it was forced into the the metal as nitride is. I will say you wouldn’t be able to scratch the coating off with your nail, but If you tapped it against another metal surface just right it would chip. From my understanding, nitride is impossible to chip as it is not an actual coating it is forced into the metal with acid. After some research I also found that it’s impossible to only cover the outside surface. Every thread and groove of your muzzle and Bore, as well as your chamber will be coated. I don’t know what steps the applicator will take to prep your chamber and bore…..

It's a treatment, not a coating. More like electroplating. We used to nitride treat racecar/cycle cranks to keep them perfectly smooth for less wear, higher rpm and heat-tolerance. Most engine rebuilding/machine shops can do that for you. IF a nitrided crank bearing journal going 10-15,000 rpm at 350-500F shows no wear, you can bet it will be underutilized and never damaged on your gun!!!

 

[Inline6]

I was very disappointed with the cerakote. I had it don’t by a well known coater. However, I can’t put all the blame on him, as I haven’t been entirely gentle. My expectation of cerakote was the result of nitride. I thought it was forced into the the metal as nitride is. I will say you wouldn’t be able to scratch the coating off with your nail, but If you tapped it against another metal surface just right it would chip. From my understanding, nitride is impossible to chip as it is not an actual coating it is forced into the metal with acid. After some research I also found that it’s impossible to only cover the outside surface. Every thread and groove of your muzzle and Bore, as well as your chamber will be coated. I don’t know what steps the applicator will take to prep your chamber and bore…..

I have watched bits smoke on a lathe trying to cut the surface of cerakote. It is very hard and very tough.

Nitride is not a coating like you are thinking. It is a surface treatment, it hardens the surface. It is done is a salt bath. Your barrel will have to be copper and carbon free. Everyone has seen the end result, Glock slides are done this way.

Then you can look at ionbond coating or DLC.

Duracote sucks, it will not hold up well at all, it makes me wonder if that's what you have.

If you have the cerakote, I would guess the surface does not have the correct profile or the surface was not cleaned properly before applying. If it was done by a reputable company talk to them about it. They may be able to help you out, could be something as simple as a bad lot.

 

[Philip Glass]

It

I was very disappointed with the cerakote. I had it don’t by a well known coater. However, I can’t put all the blame on him, as I haven’t been entirely gentle. My expectation of cerakote was the result of nitride. I thought it was forced into the the metal as nitride is. I will say you wouldn’t be able to scratch the coating off with your nail, but If you tapped it against another metal surface just right it would chip. From my understanding, nitride is impossible to chip as it is not an actual coating it is forced into the metal with acid. After some research I also found that it’s impossible to only cover the outside surface. Every thread and groove of your muzzle and Bore, as well as your chamber will be coated. I don’t know what steps the applicator will take to prep your chamber and bore…..

It is interesting all the options these days. I have no idea where I would find someone to do a nitride coating. I Met some at shot show years ago then they got busy and only do their own custom guns I think.
I just had two blued guns I wanted to hunt AK with and needed a coating to prevent rust.

 

[WAB]

It

It is interesting all the options these days. I have no idea where I would find someone to do a nitride coating. I Met some at shot show years ago then they got busy and only do their own custom guns I think.
I just had two blued guns I wanted to hunt AK with and needed a coating to prevent rust.

Agreed. I have the impression that a lot of research has been done in support of military applications.

A good friend is a small arms specialist/developer at the naval research center. He did two stints at a forward base in the sand in support of spec ops. He would mod systems, they would use them real time and report back. He took a 3D printer with him to make parts for their weapons. How crazy is that?

 

[Mekaniks]

It

It is interesting all the options these days. I have no idea where I would find someone to do a nitride coating. I Met some at shot show years ago then they got busy and only do their own custom guns I think.
I just had two blued guns I wanted to hunt AK with and needed a coating to prevent rust.

Philip, If you cant find someone close to you try Wild West Guns in Vegas or Anchorage.

 

[7MAG]

It is interesting all the options these days. I have no idea where I would find someone to do a nitride coating. I Met some at shot show years ago then they got busy and only do their own custom guns I think.
I just had two blued guns I wanted to hunt AK with and needed a coating to prevent rust.

Through research it is said that the barrel needs to be brand new. However, if you clean the barrel the best you can, you may be able to do it. I believe you can’t have any carbon or gun powder residue.
Nitride will surface rust(after a few weeks of exposure) but never chip and cerakote won’t rust but will chip so I guess you have to take your pick

 

[Aaron N]

Has anyone done their own cerakote? Wondering how difficult it is to get a good finish.

 

[rdog]

Has anyone done their own cerakote? Wondering how difficult it is to get a good finish.

Yes i do my own , you need an air compressor, blast cabinet ,oven to bake parts if using H series coatings i use our oven in the kitchen 2 hours at 122 deg C, a .8 tip lvhp mini spray gun & some knowledge of how to spray paint. Absolute cleanliness is essential, I have a background in classic car restoration & have the basis skills, its not rocket science. The Cerakote webb sight has instructional videos thats how i learnt to do it . It needs to be sprayed on very thin do not put too much no, a good finish is not hard. The coating must be filtered after mixing with the hardener before going in to the spray gun its all on there webb sight, good luck.

 

[Aaron N]

Yes i do my own , you need an air compressor, blast cabinet ,oven to bake parts if using H series coatings i use our oven in the kitchen 2 hours at 122 deg C, a .8 tip lvhp mini spray gun & some knowledge of how to spray paint. Absolute cleanliness is essential, I have a background in classic car restoration & have the basis skills, its not rocket science. The Cerakote webb sight has instructional videos thats how i learnt to do it . It needs to be sprayed on very thin do not put too much no, a good finish is not hard. The coating must be filtered after mixing with the hardener before going in to the spray gun its all on there webb sight, good luck.

I wasn’t thinking it was rocket science, but maybe one of those tasks where a joe blow can get a 90% finish, but you need experience and professional equipment for that final 10%.

 

[rdog]

I wasn’t thinking it was rocket science, but maybe one of those tasks where a joe blow can get a 90% finish, but you need experience and professional equipment for that final 10%.

From what i have seen some of the so called professional coaters are not all that good & want to charge too much & take too long.
Its a bit of a learning curve if you screw it up blast it off & try again.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

No experience with it other than seeing a few.

Years ago there was a proccess called Parkerising. Is this still done?aybe another option

@CBH Australia
Chris the chemicals used in parkerising are not what you would call conducive to good health and a long life. No one in Australia does it but my gunsmith can do a finish that resembles it. I don't think you can even get the chemicals in Australia now.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

My limited knowledge of cerakote and similar is it is a special paint. So like any paint, the prep work is what really matters. But I’m the end it’s still a paint and not immune to chipping or scratching. It’s just more durable than your normal rattle can.

@TucsonFX4
I think @Forrest Halley may have a different opinion. To him nothing beats 40 coats of a,good quality rattle can paint followed by another
10 to 15 coats of a clear finish in mat or gloss depending on your preference, he swears by it and at it.
He is a rattle can champion.
Ha ha ha ha ha
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

It

It is interesting all the options these days. I have no idea where I would find someone to do a nitride coating. I Met some at shot show years ago then they got busy and only do their own custom guns I think.
I just had two blued guns I wanted to hunt AK with and needed a coating to prevent rust.

@phillip Glass.
I just have the traditional blued steel or bead blasted stainless steel barrels.
The only stuff I use and I use it on metal work and wooden stocks is Gilleys Gun wax and polish.
Water runs off it like water off a ducks back and dust just wipes off the stock with a soft cloth.
You can apply it as often as needed is easily removed and a tin of it is 15 bucks and lasts for a long long time.
Bob

 

[TNDave]

Just picked up a used Ruger 77 Hawkeye in 338 RCM that is bead blasted stainless and composite stock. My first thought before I received it was to cerakote the barrel and action and to hydro dip the stock. After getting it and laying eyes and hands on it, it looks as new so I’ve decided to do neither and mount the glass and let her rip! I do like the idea of Gilleys Gun wax though.

 

[Aussie_Hunter]

Black Nitride. No chipping, no rust

Black nitride 100% rusts. You need to bring your black nitride rifle for a trip to the tropics. Black nitride is better than blueing but still rusts.