Building a Rifle on a Tight Budget

I put a Mcgowan barrel on my Vanguard 300WM and it's a shooter. I've been very happy with the choice, and it was used for multiple animals by my friend and me in RSA in May.
The McGowan barrel is ordered, so now the wait really begins. I ended up going with a Pac-Nor #6 contour at 20" long. This should put the weight of the completed rifle right about 8 lbs bare.

In keeping with the budget build theme of the discussion, I'm about $1900 into parts on this build. Labor has typically run about $200 including assembly, headspace check, laser engraving caliber marking, bead blasting, and glass bedding. NECG express sights and installation, plus cerakote, will up the price substantially, but that won't be completed until everything else is dialed in.

Of course, right after ordering all the parts for this build, I may have an opportunity to pick up a CRF Model 70 long action in LH with a magnum bolt face. Always a new project.....
 
Interesting. You may bring that rifle up to 8 lbs with #6 contour on 20" barrel, but sitting on a synthetic stock I have a feeling this gun will be significantly out of balance. I have carried a significantly out of balance heavy rifle in the field hunting (my brother's 300WM Browning BAR) and it ain't fun!

I'm not sure I see the utility of a fancy very expensive NECG express rear sight on a gun you intent to sandblast and paint with creakote? I opted for like-new used 1990s Winchester Safari Express sights on my 404J build. Had already installed the same on my 30-06 03A3 after rebarelling and rebluing. The rear sight has a short ramp and it's adjustable all ways. Its single leaf folds flat. Folding leaf I could do without but I guess it's nice for storage, especially sliding in and out of soft case. I paid $100 for first set of sights and $150 for second set + shipping (too much but didn't have time to shop around). Presumably you will not be adding a barrel band swivel? With 20" barrel a conventional stud mount in fore end should be fine.

My grandson is left handed and right eye dominant. He has just started shooting at local juniors club. I insisted that he learn to shoot right-handed. Seems to make more sense. I must say I was very relieved to find he was cross dominant when I tested him at the first session (and I tested him several times to be sure). Gave me a legitimate excuse to force him to learn to shoot right handed. Now my guns are assured of a good home in the future where they will be used.
 
An out of balance rifle is a risk of using a #6 contour, and one of the reasons that sights won't be purchased or installed initially. If it's too front heavy I can either recontour a bit, add some lead in the stock, or a bit of both. Once I have it how I want it, the sights and finishing will be done.

As far as the choice of sights, the NECG sights are the ones I'm aware of that are readily available. They look good and are highly functional, but I certainly would consider other options if I stumble upon any. For some reason, I'm a sucker for barrel band front sights, which complicates matters slightly when it comes to scrounging since the band diameter needs to be close enough to ream to fit. As a lefty, I've also found that attempting to scrounge parts, particularly actions and stocks, is a road to frustration, so it generally doesn't enter into my mind. I'm also far too picky about most things. I typically decide what I want and save money by waiting for a sale.

I actually was planning on a barrel band sling swivel to match the front sight, for both functional and aesthetic reasons. Having been bashed in the hand by a fore end mounted sling swivel, I can assure you it's less than pleasant. My current .375's both have barrel bands and I prefer it. It will also help the rifle stay where it belongs when slung with the suppressor mounted.

I realize it's somewhat odd to build a low budget, push feed, stainless and synthetic cerakoted rifle, throw a suppressor on it, and then insist on traditional express sights and a barrel band swivel, but we're all a little odd sometimes, myself more than most. Maybe I'll really blow your mind and install a quarter rib; I'm a sucker for them too, but it would potentially complicate scope mounting. Engraving a buffalo on the aluminum floorplate may really compliment the knurled tactical bolt handle!

In all honesty, the budget for this build is entirely imaginary. I just wanted to see how cheaply I could throw a nice, albeit somewhat ugly, custom rifle together. The only reason it's a .375 is that I haven't built one yet; I already have custom builds in smaller calibers. Once I decided on .375 I knew I'd blow the budget on sights. It was almost a .416 or a .458 since I have neither, but I choked on the idea of building a push-feed .4-something. If I do end up getting my hands on a lefty M70 CRF action the chambering will start with .4, and probably end with 16. That one will be at least a little more traditional, along with a lot more expensive.

While I'm afflicted with left-handedness, I'm fortunate enough to also be left eye dominant. I have a nephew who is left-handed and right eye dominant. He's learning to shoot right-handed as well. Fortunately, we caught that early and started teaching him right-handed, so there's nothing to unlearn for him. His father (my brother) has the worst of all worlds in this regard; he's right-handed, left eye dominant, and learned to shoot right-handed. His choices are to close his left eye, don't hit anything, or learn to shoot left-handed and have the same problems finding suitable guns that I do. So far he's chosen to close his left eye when shooting rifles, and not hit anything when shooting shotguns.
 
An out of balance rifle is a risk of using a #6 contour, and one of the reasons that sights won't be purchased or installed initially. If it's too front heavy I can either recontour a bit, add some lead in the stock, or a bit of both. Once I have it how I want it, the sights and finishing will be done.

As far as the choice of sights, the NECG sights are the ones I'm aware of that are readily available. They look good and are highly functional, but I certainly would consider other options if I stumble upon any. For some reason, I'm a sucker for barrel band front sights, which complicates matters slightly when it comes to scrounging since the band diameter needs to be close enough to ream to fit. As a lefty, I've also found that attempting to scrounge parts, particularly actions and stocks, is a road to frustration, so it generally doesn't enter into my mind. I'm also far too picky about most things. I typically decide what I want and save money by waiting for a sale.

I actually was planning on a barrel band sling swivel to match the front sight, for both functional and aesthetic reasons. Having been bashed in the hand by a fore end mounted sling swivel, I can assure you it's less than pleasant. My current .375's both have barrel bands and I prefer it. It will also help the rifle stay where it belongs when slung with the suppressor mounted.

I realize it's somewhat odd to build a low budget, push feed, stainless and synthetic cerakoted rifle, throw a suppressor on it, and then insist on traditional express sights and a barrel band swivel, but we're all a little odd sometimes, myself more than most. Maybe I'll really blow your mind and install a quarter rib; I'm a sucker for them too, but it would potentially complicate scope mounting. Engraving a buffalo on the aluminum floorplate may really compliment the knurled tactical bolt handle!

In all honesty, the budget for this build is entirely imaginary. I just wanted to see how cheaply I could throw a nice, albeit somewhat ugly, custom rifle together. The only reason it's a .375 is that I haven't built one yet; I already have custom builds in smaller calibers. Once I decided on .375 I knew I'd blow the budget on sights. It was almost a .416 or a .458 since I have neither, but I choked on the idea of building a push-feed .4-something. If I do end up getting my hands on a lefty M70 CRF action the chambering will start with .4, and probably end with 16. That one will be at least a little more traditional, along with a lot more expensive.

While I'm afflicted with left-handedness, I'm fortunate enough to also be left eye dominant. I have a nephew who is left-handed and right eye dominant. He's learning to shoot right-handed as well. Fortunately, we caught that early and started teaching him right-handed, so there's nothing to unlearn for him. His father (my brother) has the worst of all worlds in this regard; he's right-handed, left eye dominant, and learned to shoot right-handed. His choices are to close his left eye, don't hit anything, or learn to shoot left-handed and have the same problems finding suitable guns that I do. So far he's chosen to close his left eye when shooting rifles, and not hit anything when shooting shotguns.
I can't hit anything with shotgun if I shoot both eyes open. I am right handed and right eye dominant but multiple retina surgeries caused my left eye to see things (very poorly) up and right of right eye's vision plane. I conquered this by doing repetitions, hundreds per night, mounting my shotgun, following an imaginary flight pattern, and pretending to fire at a specific point. The left eye was trained to close when I mounted the gun. The right eye battles floaters but I still shoot birds very well IF I close the left eye. At one point this fall I bagged nine roosters consequetively without missing a shot, including two daily limits (3 birds) back to back. Anyway, your brother should try the routine. However, I don't advise dry firing shotguns. Firing pins can't take it.
 
While I'm afflicted with left-handedness, I'm fortunate enough to also be left eye dominant. I have a nephew who is left-handed and right eye dominant. He's learning to shoot right-handed as well. Fortunately, we caught that early and started teaching him right-handed, so there's nothing to unlearn for him. His father (my brother) has the worst of all worlds in this regard; he's right-handed, left eye dominant, and learned to shoot right-handed. His choices are to close his left eye, don't hit anything, or learn to shoot left-handed and have the same problems finding suitable guns that I do. So far he's chosen to close his left eye when shooting rifles, and not hit anything when shooting shotguns.
I'm blessed with being left handed, right eye dominant, and a dad who understood this when he caught me leaning over the BB gun to use my right eye. My GS#2 however, is right handed, left eye dominant, which I caught much the same as Dad did me. GS#2 gets to shoot right handed rifles until he starts buying his own, lol.
 
Might as well drift my own thread a bit....

The lefty Model 70 action mentioned that I may have the opportunity to purchase is actually one of several from the estate of a VERY well known custom builder. Given the demographic of this forum, some of you can probably guess who the previous owner was, but I'm going to hold off on naming names for the moment to respect the privacy of the current owner. It's a lot of parts, and at this point I don't think even he knows what he has or what he's going to do with it all.

I've inspected four potential LH actions now and there may be more to come. I've committed to buying at least one of them, though which is TBD. Some have been modified. I'll also be able to buy enough small parts to complete a Model 70 build from this collection. This won't be a budget build, but it will be heavily discounted, so I guess it kind of ties in with the theme.

Once we figure out what our options are, I'll update. It could be anything from a relatively factory-looking M70 to a full-bore custom money pit. This will probably be a long and interesting project.
 
The saga continues....

The .375 barrel arrived from McGowan yesterday. Being a #6 contour, it's somewhat porky, as expected. That being said, since it's only 20" long, it doesn't throw off the balance too badly. I'll leave the contour as-is and maybe throw a few ounces of lead in the buttstock after it's built. It's not going to take much to get it balanced. I haven't done any stock modification yet, so I can't assemble it fully, but I spun the barrel on and held the action in position in the stock to confirm balance. Just waiting on the muzzle brake/suppressor mount before I drop it off to be assembled.

This rifle will have something for everyone to hate: .375 that's not an H&H, push-feed, Remclone, stainless, fiberglass, tactical bolt knob, etc.

To redeem myself, I was able to snag two of the aforementioned lefty Model 70 actions, complete with bolts, triggers, and bottom metal. $500 each, but they will potentially need to be opened up to H&H length, depending on what I build, and they need to be heat treated as well. Obviously brand new actions, even though I'm sure they're old enough to vote. They're post-64 New Haven CRF actions, but I'm not sure exactly when they were made. The machining and heat treat will increase cost somewhat, but it should still be quite reasonable.

In keeping with the original theme of the thread, I also went scavenging on Numrich's website and found that they have several options for lefty M70 factory stocks available. I snagged an Express Super Grade stock initially, and have since ordered hardware for it and a couple more stocks to play with. The first stock is here and is in excellent shape; the remaining goodies are on the way. I'll post some pics of this entire haul once I have the rest of the parts.

Finishing these M70 actions will be off in the future a bit, but I figured I better buy the parts while they were available to me. The factory stocks have returned these projects to the realm of a budget build, at least initially. I can always go bonkers with custom walnut later if I must. Right now, the tentative plan is to build the first one as a .416RM. A .458WM would be a little easier to build, but not as versatile. I'll strip the factory stock and oil finish it and I'm also planning to try my hand at rust bluing. Machining work will be handled by my usual gunsmith. It's very conceivable that with doing the finish work myself, this rifle will cost less than I'd need to spend to get a factory lefty Safari Express, if I could even find one in .416. As of now, I have no idea what I'm going to do with the second action but I'll certainly come up with something; maybe a matching 30-06 or .300WM, maybe something even bigger.
 
Here's where I'm at with the rifle build that started this thread. No stock modifications have been done yet, so the barreled action won't drop in. a 300 grain DGX drops in and the bolt closes, but obviously headspace will be confirmed before lighting it off for the first time. I'm looking forward to getting it into a shootable condition. Once it's working perfectly I'll move on to sights and finishing.
thumbnail_IMG_3764.jpg


Now the more interesting part... These are the two M70 actions that I was able to purchase. If anyone has any insight into them, I'd appreciate it. I'm no M70 expert, but I'm learning. As I mentioned, the actions themselves are not heat treated, but I strongly suspect that the bolts are since they're finished. This will need to be confirmed before proceeding. I need to buy a copy of Tom Turpin's book and see if there's any additional information in there.

thumbnail_IMG_3765.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_3766.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_3767.jpg


Finally, the stock. I'm not sure of the vintage of this stock, but the actions drop right in and it's inlet for 1 piece bottom metal. It appears that there's some half decent walnut under the factory finish, though it really doesn't show in the photo. I'll leave it as-is until this project moves forward, but once the metal work is complete it's definitely getting stripped and oil finished. I'll probably try my hand at grinding a recoil pad at that point since the one on it is rather hard and I could use a bit more LOP anyway.
thumbnail_IMG_3768.jpg
 
An out of balance rifle is a risk of using a #6 contour, and one of the reasons that sights won't be purchased or installed initially. If it's too front heavy I can either recontour a bit, add some lead in the stock, or a bit of both. Once I have it how I want it, the sights and finishing will be done.

As far as the choice of sights, the NECG sights are the ones I'm aware of that are readily available. They look good and are highly functional, but I certainly would consider other options if I stumble upon any. For some reason, I'm a sucker for barrel band front sights, which complicates matters slightly when it comes to scrounging since the band diameter needs to be close enough to ream to fit. As a lefty, I've also found that attempting to scrounge parts, particularly actions and stocks, is a road to frustration, so it generally doesn't enter into my mind. I'm also far too picky about most things. I typically decide what I want and save money by waiting for a sale.

I actually was planning on a barrel band sling swivel to match the front sight, for both functional and aesthetic reasons. Having been bashed in the hand by a fore end mounted sling swivel, I can assure you it's less than pleasant. My current .375's both have barrel bands and I prefer it. It will also help the rifle stay where it belongs when slung with the suppressor mounted.

I realize it's somewhat odd to build a low budget, push feed, stainless and synthetic cerakoted rifle, throw a suppressor on it, and then insist on traditional express sights and a barrel band swivel, but we're all a little odd sometimes, myself more than most. Maybe I'll really blow your mind and install a quarter rib; I'm a sucker for them too, but it would potentially complicate scope mounting. Engraving a buffalo on the aluminum floorplate may really compliment the knurled tactical bolt handle!

In all honesty, the budget for this build is entirely imaginary. I just wanted to see how cheaply I could throw a nice, albeit somewhat ugly, custom rifle together. The only reason it's a .375 is that I haven't built one yet; I already have custom builds in smaller calibers. Once I decided on .375 I knew I'd blow the budget on sights. It was almost a .416 or a .458 since I have neither, but I choked on the idea of building a push-feed .4-something. If I do end up getting my hands on a lefty M70 CRF action the chambering will start with .4, and probably end with 16. That one will be at least a little more traditional, along with a lot more expensive.

While I'm afflicted with left-handedness, I'm fortunate enough to also be left eye dominant. I have a nephew who is left-handed and right eye dominant. He's learning to shoot right-handed as well. Fortunately, we caught that early and started teaching him right-handed, so there's nothing to unlearn for him. His father (my brother) has the worst of all worlds in this regard; he's right-handed, left eye dominant, and learned to shoot right-handed. His choices are to close his left eye, don't hit anything, or learn to shoot left-handed and have the same problems finding suitable guns that I do. So far he's chosen to close his left eye when shooting rifles, and not hit anything when shooting shotguns.
The way I view it is, it’s your rifle , you are putting it together to suit your needs/wants, so who cares what it looks like. As long as it does what you want it to.
Just a shame the bolt is on the wrong side…..(insert stirring emoticon here)
Gumpy
 
The way I view it is, it’s your rifle , you are putting it together to suit your needs/wants, so who cares what it looks like. As long as it does what you want it to.
Just a shame the bolt is on the wrong side…..(insert stirring emoticon here)
Gumpy
Gumpy, I believe that the word you were looking for is "proper," as in "The bolt is on the proper side." :LOL:

When I refer to this rifle as ugly, it's just a tongue-in-cheek reference to the number of blue and walnut traditionalists on this forum. I'm really just stirring the pot a bit too. We all like what we like and for what it's worth, I kind of agree with them. This isn't going to be a pretty rifle but it should be very practical for it's purpose, whatever that might end up being. For now, it's just for my own enjoyment, but I could see using it for elk, moose, or larger plains game someday. I've never named a gun before, but I may name this one "Big Ugly."

I also enjoy pretty rifles, but I've found that they tend to sit in the safe, especially if they're rare or discontinued, out of fear of damaging them. For example, I once owned a LH Browning X-Bolt White Gold Medallion with the most beautiful walnut I've ever seen on a factory Browning. While not an especially expensive rifle, it was quite rare and I only hunted with it one season since I knew there was no way I could return it to its former glory if I damaged it too badly. Eventually I came to my senses and sold it rather than let it take up a spot in the safe. Fortunately I stumbled upon someone who wanted it way more than I ever could and the proceeds from that sale largely funded my custom-ish .300WM.

The custom builds, all of which cost far more than that Browning (even Big Ugly), actually see use because I'm not afraid to scuff them up a little; I can always fix them. None are blue and walnut. When I get around to building the first Model 70 it will be blue and walnut, but I won't be afraid to use it, since I'll be doing all the finishing work anyway. I can fix any cosmetic damage I might cause; something I couldn't say about that Browning. We'll just consider the M70 build my gateway drug back into pretty rifles.
 
Here's where I'm at with the rifle build that started this thread. No stock modifications have been done yet, so the barreled action won't drop in. a 300 grain DGX drops in and the bolt closes, but obviously headspace will be confirmed before lighting it off for the first time. I'm looking forward to getting it into a shootable condition. Once it's working perfectly I'll move on to sights and finishing.
View attachment 670166

Now the more interesting part... These are the two M70 actions that I was able to purchase. If anyone has any insight into them, I'd appreciate it. I'm no M70 expert, but I'm learning. As I mentioned, the actions themselves are not heat treated, but I strongly suspect that the bolts are since they're finished. This will need to be confirmed before proceeding. I need to buy a copy of Tom Turpin's book and see if there's any additional information in there.

View attachment 670167View attachment 670168View attachment 670169

Finally, the stock. I'm not sure of the vintage of this stock, but the actions drop right in and it's inlet for 1 piece bottom metal. It appears that there's some half decent walnut under the factory finish, though it really doesn't show in the photo. I'll leave it as-is until this project moves forward, but once the metal work is complete it's definitely getting stripped and oil finished. I'll probably try my hand at grinding a recoil pad at that point since the one on it is rather hard and I could use a bit more LOP anyway.
View attachment 670170
If that's a Model 70 stock, Winchester engraved crossbolts should also drop right in. They are the easiest to deal with. Only require an allen wrench to tighten (actually two the same size, one for each side). And they look nice too.
20240811_062626.jpg
 
If that's a Model 70 stock, Winchester engraved crossbolts should also drop right in. They are the easiest to deal with. Only require an allen wrench to tighten (actually two the same size, one for each side). And they look nice too.
View attachment 670188
Thanks OH. It's an M70 stock, just not exactly sure how old it is. It was advertised as being for an Express Super Grade, IIRC.

Numrich has the Winchester crossbolts so I have some of those on the way now. If the photo on their website is correct, they're identical to yours. I also have an inletted rear swivel in that order. I'm less confident that will work since it's advertised as fitting one of the most recent M70's. I'm thinking my stock is from New Haven, but I have no idea whether they changed the swivel. I don't believe that they ever made lefty M70's in South Carolina or Portugal, but I'm certainly no expert. No big deal if the swivel is bigger than the inlet, but if it's smaller things get a bit more complicated.

On a side note, how do you like those Warne QD rings? I have a set of them waiting for Big Ugly to be finished. I've had good luck with Leupold and Alaska Arms QD's, but haven't tried the Warnes yet. Still not sure what scope is going in them.
 
Thanks OH. It's an M70 stock, just not exactly sure how old it is. It was advertised as being for an Express Super Grade, IIRC.

Numrich has the Winchester crossbolts so I have some of those on the way now. If the photo on their website is correct, they're identical to yours. I also have an inletted rear swivel in that order. I'm less confident that will work since it's advertised as fitting one of the most recent M70's. I'm thinking my stock is from New Haven, but I have no idea whether they changed the swivel. I don't believe that they ever made lefty M70's in South Carolina or Portugal, but I'm certainly no expert. No big deal if the swivel is bigger than the inlet, but if it's smaller things get a bit more complicated.

On a side note, how do you like those Warne QD rings? I have a set of them waiting for Big Ugly to be finished. I've had good luck with Leupold and Alaska Arms QD's, but haven't tried the Warnes yet. Still not sure what scope is going in them.
The Warne QD rings hold zero just fine. They are a bit tricky to assemble but once together and on the scope they are indeed quick and tough. I mounted them on a discontinued Weaver base and had to modify them slightly to fit. I would recommend Warne base if you can find one. These rings will fit any pic rail or standard Weaver 2-piece bases without modification.
 
Why do the lefty Winchesters need heat treat?

These actions were originally ordered by David Miller for his custom builds. He modified them rather extensively for his rifles, which would be much easier when they're soft. The modifications I saw on the lefty action I didn't buy included machining the rear bridge for his custom scope mount, scalloping the tang, and opening up the action to H&H length. There may have been other modifications I didn't notice. That action was already heat treated; I only passed on it since it would have forced me into a custom stock and scope mount.

From my research so far, he worked with Winchester on the features of the New Haven M70 Classics, so he must have had some agreement with them that they would sell him actions without heat treating them. I've also read that he had somewhat different heat treating specifications for them and it must be true since i read it on the internet.

Both of my actions are in the factory configuration; he never started work on them. The only modification I plan to make besides blueprinting is to open up the scope mount holes to #8's and pin them. Notably, there is also no engraving above the stock line. The legally required engraving is electro penciled on the recoil lug. As a result, I'll also need to get them engraved. No big deal, just a little extra cost; the chambering needs to be engraved anyway.

Most M70 actions you'll find would not require heat treat since it would have been done prior to leaving the factory; these are just a rather unique case.
 
The Warne QD rings hold zero just fine. They are a bit tricky to assemble but once together and on the scope they are indeed quick and tough. I mounted them on a discontinued Weaver base and had to modify them slightly to fit. I would recommend Warne base if you can find one. These rings will fit any pic rail or standard Weaver 2-piece bases without modification.
Thank you once again. I've used their fixed rings and noticed the same assembly challenges you mentioned. A third hand would be helpful sometimes.
 
I was curious about that too. Can't imagine them putting a bolt into an action that was not ready to shoot. Major liability issue!
It appears we were typing at the same time. I was a bit surprised myself, but it becomes more understandable considering who the actions were originally sold to. There must have been some agreement in place. These actions are brand new; they've never been built into rifles.

For what it's worth, the lack of heat treat on the receiver was fully disclosed throughout the process; I just neglected to ask about the bolt.
 
Thank you once again. I've used their fixed rings and noticed the same assembly challenges you mentioned. A third hand would be helpful sometimes.
You will note that the locking levers are on the right side. It makes better sense to have all protrusions on the same side: elevation turret, bolt, safety, and scope levers. It's usually the off-side when slinging the rifle on my shoulder. That way nothing to get caught in clothing when unslinging the rifle quickly. For you that would be left shoulder so everything will be on the left side. Rotate the scope counterclockwise so elevation turret becomes windage. Note that the levers are pointed towards the turret to keep the levers protected by the turret. Levers do not interfere with loading ... or ejection (it's a Mauser not a Sako :D ).
 

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Morning Rob, Any feeling for how the 300 H&H shoots? How's the barrel condition?
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Hello. I see you hunted with Sampie recently. If you don't mind me asking, where did you hunt with him? Zim or SA? And was it with a bow? What did you hunt?

I am possibly going to book with him soon.
Currently doing a load development on a .404 Jeffrey... it's always surprising to load .423 caliber bullets into a .404 caliber rifle. But we love it when we get 400 Gr North Fork SS bullets to 2300 FPS, those should hammer down on buffalo. Next up are the Cutting Edge solids and then Raptors... load 200 rounds of ammo for the customer and on to the next gun!
 
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