Bore tech and cleaning your rifle

I always clean out carbon after every shoot, unless I'm on a hunt or just before the hunt. Copper only needs to be removed when groups open up. It all depends on what you are shooting with and what you are trying to achieve, for an extreme example contrast a bench rest shooter with a DG PH. If you use the correct tools, i.e. proper rod and bore guide, you shouldn't damage the barrel. Also remember that every rifle is different, some like a clean barrel, others don't care. I've also seen that mixing bullets tend to open groups in some rifles. I shoot a lot of Peregrines out of my 404. If I shoot a group with A-Frames after a few groups with the Peregrines, the groups tend to be larger than shooting the A-Frames out of a clean barrel.
 
@425SCHADE
My dad was an armourer and my first rifle was a 303. Cleaning method was simple.
Get home, remove bolt and put the muzzle in a 9 litre bucket. With a funnel pour 2 litres of boiling water down the bore. Use a BORE MOP to suck the boiling water upt the barrel a few times. The boiling water heats the barrel and dries it very quickly.
Ofter that swab the barrel with God ol 303 oil and put it away. No solvent no chemical just hot water and oil.
Bob
Good observation and comment Bob. That method or a variation of it is still valid today if shooting old ammo with unknown or corrosive primers. My normal routine for cleaning any such unknown ammo is hot soapy water first, followed by hot rinse water, then dry swabs, then Hoppes 9, then oil.

All my muzzleloaders get that cleaning treatment after I shoot. Hot soapy water, hot rinse water, dry paper swabs, oil. Never lost a muzzleloader bore to rust in over 60 years of shooting blackpowder. Even some of the so-called modern "smokeless" blackpowder substitutes are extremely corrosive and/or at least hygroscopic so it pays to use that method for them also. Some or the worst ( and ruined) sewer pipe bores I've ever seen were those shot with Pyrodex then left uncleaned.
 
@Wyatt Smith
I must be a luck SOB as all my rifles put the first shot on the money wether spotlessly clean or dirty.
Before I go hunting I always check my rifle with a ONE SHOT group.
That shot is always where it should be.
When I do clean my rifles I'm also lazy. Give the barrel a spay with foaming bore cleaner, leave a few hours and patch it out. Then another spay, leave over night muzzle down and patch it out in the morning. Put a patch wet with INOX thru the bore and put it away. When I go hunting run a,dry patch thru it and go hunting.
Easy as.
Bob
I know you are a good shooter. So we can take that out of equation, could be the powder that you are using. Knowing you like the CFE line. That could have a lot to do with it.

When I clean my rifles that I shoot matches with. I expect them to shoot inside of a bullet hole. Meaning that it has to shoot tight .2 or less. When cleaning out the bore usually after every match (220ish rds) it will take anything from a handful to 3 doz depending on the barrel to get the rifle to settle in. I measure this is two ways, 1 the group settles back to POA/POI and 2 the SDs/ velocities are stabilized.

I get we are talking about hunting rifles here. Thing is most don't understand what happens as a result of clean. David Tubb makes/sell an additive that is supposed to act like the CFE line of powder. You add it to your powder and it's supposed to eliminate the copper build up. I need to try it, if I could get the same type of results well that would save wear and tear on my barrels.
 
Assuming he still had the correct issued SMLE funnel ?
@425SCHADE
No we didn't have the issue funnel. A good old fashioned plastic one and a piece of tubing.
The funnel sat in the rear of the action with the tube attached and long enough to go into the chamber about half an inch. Worked well.
 
I know you are a good shooter. So we can take that out of equation, could be the powder that you are using. Knowing you like the CFE line. That could have a lot to do with it.

When I clean my rifles that I shoot matches with. I expect them to shoot inside of a bullet hole. Meaning that it has to shoot tight .2 or less. When cleaning out the bore usually after every match (220ish rds) it will take anything from a handful to 3 doz depending on the barrel to get the rifle to settle in. I measure this is two ways, 1 the group settles back to POA/POI and 2 the SDs/ velocities are stabilized.

I get we are talking about hunting rifles here. Thing is most don't understand what happens as a result of clean. David Tubb makes/sell an additive that is supposed to act like the CFE line of powder. You add it to your powder and it's supposed to eliminate the copper build up. I need to try it, if I could get the same type of results well that would save wear and tear on my barrels.
@Inline6
Don't know about a good shooter but do have good barrels. The 25 is a match grade Llijla and the Whelen is a MAB match grade.
I don't shoot as many rounds as you do but I do insist my rifles put the bullet in the right spot first time every time. When sighting in my rifle the barrel is always cold. When it is sighted I clean it then fire one shot at the target. It is usually spot on.
I don't shoot at game with a hot barrel so it has to be right first time every time.
A s I start with a clean barrel and it fouls as I sight in I know it's fine dirty. So after I'm finished I know it's going to shoot properly with a cold clean or dirty barrel.
Bob
 
@Inline6
Don't know about a good shooter but do have good barrels. The 25 is a match grade Llijla and the Whelen is a MAB match grade.
I don't shoot as many rounds as you do but I do insist my rifles put the bullet in the right spot first time every time. When sighting in my rifle the barrel is always cold. When it is sighted I clean it then fire one shot at the target. It is usually spot on.
I don't shoot at game with a hot barrel so it has to be right first time every time.
A s I start with a clean barrel and it fouls as I sight in I know it's fine dirty. So after I'm finished I know it's going to shoot properly with a cold clean or dirty barrel.
Bob
I get what you mean, my statement is based on a good many people can not shoot to the potential of their rifle (I am one of those that can't shoot to the potential of my pistols). So when sightings in, clean or dirty would make no difference, they can't distinguish the difference.

Where I can see 1" at 100 yards and know what's going on. After a few more shots it where it should be. I know alot of people here are of the mindset a minute of (insert animal here) if good enough. I have a problem, I'm after sub 1/4 moa (when I'm on my game, I can't do it every time). That my friend is the number 1 reason I don't have double rifle.
 
Good observation and comment Bob. That method or a variation of it is still valid today if shooting old ammo with unknown or corrosive primers. My normal routine for cleaning any such unknown ammo is hot soapy water first, followed by hot rinse water, then dry swabs, then Hoppes 9, then oil.

All my muzzleloaders get that cleaning treatment after I shoot. Hot soapy water, hot rinse water, dry paper swabs, oil. Never lost a muzzleloader bore to rust in over 60 years of shooting blackpowder. Even some of the so-called modern "smokeless" blackpowder substitutes are extremely corrosive and/or at least hygroscopic so it pays to use that method for them also. Some or the worst ( and ruined) sewer pipe bores I've ever seen were those shot with Pyrodex then left uncleaned.
I switched to triple 7 because of what I was seeing if Pyrodex was left in overnight. Had a nipple seize on a BP revolver because of Pyrodex. Decided I'd only use real black or one of the "clean" substitutes. Triple 7 has been very good so far. No issue with leaving it loaded for several days during a hunt. Always goes bang when needed, and nothing visible in the chamber after cleaning.
There is an inline of my nephew's that had a charge of Pyrodex left in it for a little over 2 weeks sitting in a corner of my garage. Wouldn't fire, tried multiple 209s. Couldn't remove the breech plug, tried every method but a torch (still has powder and a bullet in it). It has been soaking in a penetrating oil for a couple years now, lol. Every now and then I'll get the urge and have another go at unscrewing the breach plug, but so far, it is winning. One of these days I might just take it to the bandsaw and shorten it, but I haven't had that urge, yet.
 

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