Best starter guns for an adult newbie

I don’t know if it’s been mentioned yet but another thing to think about is going through your state’s hunter safety/education course which is a great idea even if it wasn’t required. I don’t know your age or where you live but in Oklahoma if you’re under the age of 31 you need to have gone through the course in order to get a hunting license or you have to be accompanied by someone who is 31 or older, not a bad idea for a beginner regardless of age. You can probably take the course online. In person would be better though depending on the instructor
 
@tigris115 Only because you are a new shooter and don't own any rifles I would recommend two a .22 and (This hurts me to even type this) a 6.5 Creedmoore. The 6.5 CR is one of the most the popular rounds on the US market and is a very effective round for deer and hogs.
@Art Lambart II
Art I can see you pappy giving you a talking to about that caliber. Where is you loyalty it should have been the 6.5 Swede not the manbun.
Shame Shane shame.
Bob
 
The rifle is the cheap part; the ammunition is the expensive part. It's a bit like Gillette giving away the handle and selling the razors.

Start with an air-rifle (BB gun).

A .22LR is the next step.

Then get a .308 (recommended), or something similar. The .308 is standard NATO ammunition, so comes cheap. Ideally, for this rifle, get a detachable scope, so you practice with the open (or 'iron') sights and graduate to the telescopic sights. Similarly, get a detachable bipod - practice without, use with.

MOST IMPORTANT: understand the basics of firearms safety. ALWAYS treat a rifle as loaded; NEVER point it at anyone; ALWAYS check what is behind your target.

There's a chap called Brandon Herrera on YouTube who has some entertaining (and informative) videos on gun safety.

When it comes to hunting, respect your quarry. Try to be as sure as you can be that your shot will kill and not wound: never take a shot that you are unsure about.
 
@tigris115
What state are you located? Most likely there are a couple people on here that are close. A good option would be meet an experienced enthusiast and take a few rifles out and see what you like - I have done that many times so people (usually new to the sport) can see the difference in rifles and scopes. I also recommend spending a good portion of the budget on optics - everybody has their preference - I’ll offer up my $0.02.
starting out I wouldn’t go any cheaper than a Leupold VX III. If your budget can support it, I’d lean towards a Swarovski Z3 - I’m a fan of the BRH reticle, especially if you ever get to the point where you’re accurately shooting 400-500 yards.
 
I speak as someone in the firearms industry.
For whitetail size game, and getting into it now, get a .308. Many/most hunting calibers are hard to get and we are still another/one more event away from another ammo scare. The .308 is a fine choice and it is the most readily available centerfire ammunition available right now for deer sized game. Sometimes, the times and ammo availability influence the recommendation. I see 20-30 people a day looking for ammo for their hunting rifle that they cannot find. I have thousands of rounds of .308 in stock including hundreds of boxes of .308 hunting ammunition.
Savage, Ruger, and many others are absolutely fine for entry level rifles, and if your budget allows, there are many fine $1,000+ rifles out there in the "buy once cry once" category.
With a hunting rifle setup, do not make the frequent beginner mistake of having tunnel vision on the rifle. The optic you put on it is just as important. I am optic quality biased, and I would actually say the optic is more important than the rifle. Modern budget rifles are capable of perfectly acceptable accuracy at under $500. I would prefer a $300-$500 rifle with higher end optic than a $1,000 rifle with cheap optic. In whitetail deer hunting especially, that first 30 minutes and last 30 minutes of legal shooting time seem to have a lot of activity. A quality scope with high end lenses and lense coatings will allow you to clearly identify and take the shot. You will not be able to do that with a bargain basement scope.

This is likely controversial, but I absolutely disagree with the advice of a 22LR bolt action with iron sights. That is like the old school advice of learning to drive a stick shift first. It is outdated and misguided. If you want to learn how to shoot and hunt deer, learn how to shoot a bolt action with a scope, and you can do that with the rifle you will hunt with.
 
22 and 308, vs 308 only?

My view on that is following:
OP was asking specifically one rifle for his use.
So, most likely it is 308 (or similar centerfire caliber) as the only firearm.

But allow me to elaborate more, on two rifle system.

I do not know anybody who knows (i mean k-n-o-w-s) how to shoot, without learning with 22 lr, in the beggining. 22 gives really proper trigger time.
But it also takes away the time. Spending time on range is investment.

So, if the OP, really plans to learn how to shoot, and spend time and money at the range, then the only way is to buy 22 and 308 (or similar) rifles. Learn to shoot with 22, and polish the skills with 308.

Now, if the OP does not have overly too much time, and needs to get into hunting asap, with minimum but also sufficient training time, the fastest way is to buy only 308, good amount of ammo, milsurp, and learn basics. In this way he will not win the Olympics, but he will be able to shoot a deer in vital area from the rest in the blind at 100 yards with 99% chance of success..

Getting started with 22 and then moving up to 308 (or similar) is the sportsman way of doing things.

Getting started with big boy - 308 - or similar, learning fast, and get asap in the field to shoot, is military way of learning things.
Both systems work, but time investment is different.

Now on optics.
My last purchase was: 2nd hand rifle 600 eur, and brand new scope 2000 eur. (to say nothing of the steel reinforced German swing mounts).
It speaks enough for itself.

definitely, he should buy the best scope he can afford. Rifle will be less important, every new factory rifle has accuracy capacity sufficient for hunting. But good scope in twilight can not be substituted by cheap glass.
 
I speak as someone in the firearms industry.
For whitetail size game, and getting into it now, get a .308. Many/most hunting calibers are hard to get and we are still another/one more event away from another ammo scare. The .308 is a fine choice and it is the most readily available centerfire ammunition available right now for deer sized game. Sometimes, the times and ammo availability influence the recommendation. I see 20-30 people a day looking for ammo for their hunting rifle that they cannot find. I have thousands of rounds of .308 in stock including hundreds of boxes of .308 hunting ammunition.
Savage, Ruger, and many others are absolutely fine for entry level rifles, and if your budget allows, there are many fine $1,000+ rifles out there in the "buy once cry once" category.
With a hunting rifle setup, do not make the frequent beginner mistake of having tunnel vision on the rifle. The optic you put on it is just as important. I am optic quality biased, and I would actually say the optic is more important than the rifle. Modern budget rifles are capable of perfectly acceptable accuracy at under $500. I would prefer a $300-$500 rifle with higher end optic than a $1,000 rifle with cheap optic. In whitetail deer hunting especially, that first 30 minutes and last 30 minutes of legal shooting time seem to have a lot of activity. A quality scope with high end lenses and lense coatings will allow you to clearly identify and take the shot. You will not be able to do that with a bargain basement scope.

This is likely controversial, but I absolutely disagree with the advice of a 22LR bolt action with iron sights. That is like the old school advice of learning to drive a stick shift first. It is outdated and misguided. If you want to learn how to shoot and hunt deer, learn how to shoot a bolt action with a scope, and you can do that with the rifle you will hunt with.
Mate, you know guns leave the car analogy alone, Seriously, it was just recently a person tried to steal a car and after breaking into it found I t was stick, and there are others who really won't try

I think you are on the money with .308, many do.

Pending his experience maybe he can shoot, he asked for a
 
@Art Lambart II
Art I can see you pappy giving you a talking to about that caliber. Where is you loyalty it should have been the 6.5 Swede not the manbun.
Shame Shane shame.
Bob
@Bob Nelson 35Whelen I'm sure he will aks me why I made that recommendation he always tells me "A properly loaded Sweede is the equal of and 6.5CR" the key phrase is properly loaded. So why did I recommend the 6.5CR, simple, the avaiability of factory ammo. My 11 year old son shoots a 6.5x55 and its a great round for deer and hogs but trying to find ammo for it during the best of times iis very, very difficult, especially here in the US. For every box of 6.5x55 I find in the gun store I can find 50 boxes of 6.5CR. Its all about finding ammo. Personally I dont see the need for the 6.5CR, I have a 7mm-08 and a 270 so I don't need anything small to hunt or shoot with and thanks to all the folks here on AH my current rifle wants are all above 30 caliber. The Sweede is one of the most succesful hunt rounds on earth but here I the US I would only recommend it to an experienced reloaded and never a new shooter.
 
@tigris115...had enough free advice yet? :cool:

Have you gotten any closer to a decision?
 
@Bob Nelson 35Whelen I'm sure he will aks me why I made that recommendation he always tells me "A properly loaded Sweede is the equal of and 6.5CR" the key phrase is properly loaded. So why did I recommend the 6.5CR, simple, the avaiability of factory ammo. My 11 year old son shoots a 6.5x55 and its a great round for deer and hogs but trying to find ammo for it during the best of times iis very, very difficult, especially here in the US. For every box of 6.5x55 I find in the gun store I can find 50 boxes of 6.5CR. Its all about finding ammo. Personally I dont see the need for the 6.5CR, I have a 7mm-08 and a 270 so I don't need anything small to hunt or shoot with and thanks to all the folks here on AH my current rifle wants are all above 30 caliber. The Sweede is one of the most succesful hunt rounds on earth but here I the US I would only recommend it to an experienced reloaded and never a new shooter.
@Art Lambart II
You should always be able to find cheap 6.5x55s in the US any time. There is always plenty in Michigan. Just go to Dads shooting and reloading supplies. That way you get to see the old fella and he gets to see the grandkids.
Bob
 
@Bob Nelson 35Whelen My 11 year old son shoots a 6.5x55 and its a great round for deer and hogs

. Personally I dont see the need for the 6.5CR, I have a 7mm-08

I don't need anything small to hunt or shoot. Thanks to my friends here on AH my current rifle wants are all above 30 caliber. The Sweede is one of the most succesful hunt rounds on earth.


That's all I'm hearing,

You nailed it Art,
 
First off, listening to anyone on this forum is a sure fire way to end up with a medium bore rifle. I bought my first .375 a few weeks after finding this place. Honestly just buy a Ruger #1 in .35 Whelen. You can shoot cheap bullets in the thing for groundhogs and other stuff. There are decent bullets for elk and deer. You can mate it up with a .357 revolver and be set for life. It's a pretty good minimalist plan.
Otherwise, a .30-06 or .308 won't break the shoulder or the bank.
 
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If you don’t know it already, this place is absolutely loaded with enablers!

Get with a club or other knowledgeable shooter (s), go to a range and try some variety. Cals like 30-06, 7x57 and 308 are usually never a mistake. Join the ranks!
 
First off, listening to anyone on this forum is a sure fire way to end up with a medium bore rifle. I bought my first .375 a few weeks after finding this place. Honestly just buy a Ruger #1 in .35 Whelen. You can shoot cheap bullets in the thing for groundhogs and other stuff. There are decent bullets for elk and deer. You can mate it up with a .357 revolver and be set for life. It's a pretty good minimalist plan.
Otherwise, a .30-06 or .308 won't break the shoulder or the bank.
@Forrest Halley
Mate you are finally learning. Now you have to get one.
Bob
 
@Forrest Halley
Mate you are finally learning. Now you have to get one.
Bob
No. I won't and I don't. I am seriously hoping that 300 BLK is my last caliber. There is just no more need and very little want. I have it all covered by other stuff. I don't see one coming my way unless someone mails me an encore barrel out of the blue and the odds are quite narrow on that one.
 
Buy two rifles. First get the best full sized .22 rimfire you can find /afford. Buy all the .22 ammo you can find/afford. Shoot and repeat. Use the same type sights/scope you plan to use with your centerfire rifle. Use GOOD hearing and eye protection. Repeat using field positions and bipods/tripods/sticks until you are proficient.

Then go buy a modest recoiling centerfire and lots of ammo. 7mm-08. .270, .280, 7x57 or similar will do just fine. Shoot a lot. When flinch or bad habits rear their head go back to the .22.

Practice, Practice, Practice. Once the mechanics of sight alignment, getting steady, and trigger control are second nature and ingrained in muscle memory go forth and hunt, a lot.

I would add 308 a little easier to find cheap practice ammo.
 
I think a 270, 30-06 or 7mm are all great choices. Definitely get a Ruger 10/22 rife to practice with to start.
 
If recoil sensitive…. Consider the 6.5 or 7mm-08
 

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