Best 30mm rings

[Jamie D Van Roekel]

I removed the scope from my rifle that slipped yesterday evening.
Wish I took pictures.
The rings and scope showed slight wear marks indicating the spots that had contact and slipped.
The alignment pins indicated good alignment. ( little points matched up )
I went on to check contact with some machinist lay out dye.
I found the rings did not make full contact to the straight edge.
So I did lap the nightforce rings to get full contact between the ring and scope body.
Alignment was never a issue.
Took very little lapping to bring the rings into full contact.
Scope is remounted and witness marks made on the scope to check for movement.

The amount of slip I had was very slight. I noticed my impact was shifting to the right.
My movement from zero was between 4 inches at 600 yards over 50 rounds

Very interesting and useful post. Thanks

 

[William W.]

Badger Ordnance Max-50.

 

[C.W. Richter]

Talley, Alaskan, Warne (steel for heavy-recoiling big boys.) The Talley 1-piece ultra lightweight are great for mtn rifles in modest calibers. Accurate. Strong. No slippage. With some exceptions, IF you don't buy rings from Scope manufacturers, you won't be receiving contract junk! When a ring/base mfr's livelihood depends solely upon their quality, they're either good or they don't survive. If you've ever installed a pair of steel Talleys (9 visible screws, several more screws hidden!) you understand why they don't fail. Also Q/D available and easily convertible to Q/D by replacing 2 clamp screws. Alaskan's Q/Ds are very nice as well!!!

 

[62flint]

After reading through this thread and thinking about my own experience.
I have a theory that more scopes slip on hunting rifles than they realize.
I had a scope that was moving roughly 1/2 moa every 10 shots or so. Only reason I noticed it like did was I was doing load development off of a bench at 600 yards in good conditions.
I would shoot 2 shots let the barrel cool and shoot two more. After 4-6 shots I had to click in a bit to the left. After doing that 3-4 times and adding a total of a few moa of adjustment I started looking and found the scope was walking.
Now take this same scenario at 100 or 200 yards with a hunting rifle. You shoot and notice its hitting a inch off, couple clicks and a couple shots to verify and you go hunting. At 200 yards it never moves enough to notice for hunting accuracy. You get your deer/impala and back in the safe it goes until next year and you repeat. That would go on until screw are noticed loose maybe the scope sorta laps it self in to the rings or slides enough to get a "bite"
Maybe I am wrong but I could see my self doing that with some of my hunting rifles, especially the ones that are not but so accurate to begin with (rem 7600 30-06 great woods deer rifle that kicks painfully)

I have also noted that a lot of long range guys do not lap the rings, they bed them with JB Weld. Put a release agent (floor wax) on the scope body. Thin coat of JB Weld on the ring and torque down. Remove scope clean the scope body and let the JB Weld cure 24 hours before reinstalling.
Idea is to have full contact so the scope doesn't slide.
They also do not like Talley rings/mounts.
I learned long ago listen to what some one says, some of what they say may help you latter. But its best to find what works for you.
Me personally on my long range target guns I epoxy/bed my scope rails and I doubt I will put another set of rings on with out laping unless its designed like a leupold with the raised ridges in the rings, the ridges are designed to swage when torqued.