Be careful who mounts your scopes

Wiley64

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My baby (New Haven model 70 375) is in the shop at the moment, got the barrel taken down to 20.5 inches and threaded for my banish 46 suppressor. The gunsmith called and informed me that whoever mounted my scope originally used the pre 64 mounts and they were not the same size as the magnum new model requires. End result is I’ve been hunting with only one screw holding my scope in place in the back. So grateful I decided to make some mods… Talley rings are ordered. This is exactly why I wanted the work done by Gordy & Son’s in Houston. They are the real deal and I appreciate them paying attention to the details for my first dg hunt.
 
What rings did you order? I've been trying to decide which ones I want for mine. Preferably something that doesn't overhang the action.
 
I mount all my scopes myself. If there is someone to blame, they are easy to find.

I will admit to having quite a collection of firearm specific tools, including scope ring lapping tools, alignment tools, levels, torque wrenches, assorted bits for all the different screw heads and most importantly Loctite. Please use blue or purple Loctite and not red. ;)

Usually takes me about an hour once the correct eye relief has been determined. Although my most recent scopes are rail mounted and that significantly shortened the required time down to about 15 minutes.
 
My baby (New Haven model 70 375) is in the shop at the moment, got the barrel taken down to 20.5 inches and threaded for my banish 46 suppressor. The gunsmith called and informed me that whoever mounted my scope originally used the pre 64 mounts and they were not the same size as the magnum new model requires. End result is I’ve been hunting with only one screw holding my scope in place in the back. So grateful I decided to make some mods… Talley rings are ordered. This is exactly why I wanted the work done by Gordy & Son’s in Houston. They are the real deal and I appreciate them paying attention to the details for my first dg hunt.
@Wiley64: How long were you shooting and hunting with that model 70? Did the scope ‘Hold Zero’? Agree with getting the rings changed now because it “could” prevent a problem down the road but your old rings might have been adequate ——even if they don’t meet the NEW recommendations. I’m interested because I also have a newer model 70 in .375 and you’ve given me something to think/worry about. Although my scope has always held zero —- can’t pass up an excuse to take it to a Gunsmith and spend more money!!
 
I enjoy mounting them myself. Knowing that no one will take the time and care that I do.

IE removing all oil from mount and ring threads, adjusting torque values for lubricant (purple locktite) torque specs are normally given for dry threads.

The most useful is the scope ring alignment bars. If the ring doesn’t slide easily from one bar to the next while tightened in each ring separately. Then there is an alignment issue and you are getting uneven pressure on the tube. Which causes most scopes “ going bad”.
IMG_8397.jpeg
 
I don't really trust anyone other than myself. Takes a small amount of equipment, torque gauges, a rifle stand and some bubble levels. You want things to fit you, not some gunsmith.
 
I enjoy mounting them myself. Knowing that no one will take the time and care that I do.

IE removing all oil from mount and ring threads, adjusting torque values for lubricant (purple locktite) torque specs are normally given for dry threads.

The most useful is the scope ring alignment bars. If the ring doesn’t slide easily from one bar to the next while tightened in each ring separately. Then there is an alignment issue and you are getting uneven pressure on the tube. Which causes most scopes “ going bad”. View attachment 675057
This is a good set up.
 
The main problem I have found with others mounting scopes is utilization of (improper flavor) Loctite or fingernail polish on the screws. Oooof. I have run into this on several used rifles.
 
Many say not to use locktite. I’ve never had an issue with purple locktite.
But the torque values must be converted from dry to lubricated
 
What rings did you order? I've been trying to decide which ones I want for mine. Preferably something that doesn't overhang the action.
I don’t know- I told them to just handle it and I would meet them at pickup and bring my checkbook
 
@Wiley64: How long were you shooting and hunting with that model 70? Did the scope ‘Hold Zero’? Agree with getting the rings changed now because it “could” prevent a problem down the road but your old rings might have been adequate ——even if they don’t meet the NEW recommendations. I’m interested because I also have a newer model 70 in .375 and you’ve given me something to think/worry about. Although my scope has always held zero —- can’t pass up an excuse to take it to a Gunsmith and spend more money!!
I went on one entire safari with just the single screw in the back, it held zero fine. Gunsmith said talley makes rings specific for the new model 70.
 
I went on one entire safari with just the single screw in the back, it held zero fine. Gunsmith said talley makes rings specific for the new model 70.
Are you talking about rings or bases specific to the 70? You had a base issue, not a ring issue, correct?
 
If your gunsmith tells you that rings with just a single screw per side isn't good enough for a 375 and that you need to go with a double screw set up, how about some mounts with 3 screws per side?

Those single screw rings have been holding scopes on rifles for years. The whole thing is to mount them properly and you will not have any problems. It is much like a friend of mine that called me years ago because he was having problems getting his rifle sighted in. We showed up at his home and I took a look at how he had mounted the scope which was loose enough that you could move it back and forth. I asked him if he had used any lock tite on the screws? He said what's lock tite? We got the scope tightened down and headed to the range where we got it sighted in. I told him that he was going to have to pull each screw one at a time and put some lock tite onto them and then resight the rifle in or at least take a few shots. To this day 40 years later I doubt that he has ever done that and still hunts with that rifle.
 
if it was a one piece leupold style base they only have one screw in the back. Countless hunts all around the world in the harshest conditions relied on this system. Many military mauser based sporting rifles use this same setup to het around the stripper clip hump. I prefer two piece bases for DG guns but nothing wrong with 3 screws in a 1 piece base.
 

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