Anyone use a drilling?

My Merkel 961L doublerifledrilling in cal 2x 30R Blaser and 20ga-76 shotgun.

Can hunt everything with this gun.
kaliber 20 is perfect with slug (brenneke) and have the same POI at 50 yards as with the rifle
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I bought my dreiling because I was fascinated by the engineering, history, nostalgia and the German hunting concept of "ready for anything". I need to take mine to Africa.
 
I bought my dreiling because I was fascinated by the engineering, history, nostalgia and the German hunting concept of "ready for anything". I need to take mine to Africa.
I'm a fan of Separatekugelspannung (separate rifle barrel cocking), which allows you to carry your drilling with the rifle barrel uncocked, hence no possibility of loosing a rifle bullet into a covey of quail by accident. However, I don't care for the system where the cocking is accomplished with a sliding divice on the pistol grip, where the safety is usually located. I prefer the system which employs a lever on the side of the action which is typically activated by the non-shooting hand. This system is only found in older model drillings. I have never seen it on a new one, but it allows the use of the shot barrels withy no fear of an accidental discharge of the rifle barrel and puts the safety in the normal position.

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This Greifelt drilling is a poor illustration of what I am talking about, since it uses a Greener safety mounted on the side of the action. I find such a safety almost impossible to use quickly with gloves on and most of my hunting requires gloves, but at least it illustrates the cocking lever.
 
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I would love a "Bergstutzen" drilling, 9.3x74R/7x57R/12ga for Africa is such a thing is pssible, I then keep my 500 Jeff ready for everything
"Bergstutzen" is 2 different rifle barrels like .22 Hornet and 7x57R or many other different combinations.

"BockDrilling" is the name of of what you think of, Blaser made a BD 14 i think name is . That can be regulated by the shooter for the ammunition one wish to use,same with the Blaser Bergstutzen also.
 
xausa: You can probably see mine has what you are talking about with the safeties. The rifle safety on the tang actually cocks the rifle and the shotgun operates with the greener safety on the side. The safeties on a dreiling take some getting used to. Like anything, familiarity through practice and it is pretty fun to practice with.

When I was just learning about the gun, I went pig hunting at a place in Florida where they were destroying the orange groves. Great meat by the way, pre marinated it seemed! The dogs were pushing the pigs and we were using swamp buggies as shooting platforms. I really wanted to shoot a pig with "buck and/or ball" from the shotgun barrels. I swung on a pig running all out and inadvertently shot him with the rifle barrel. Hit him perfectly right behind the ear. I just acted like I do that all the time. The outfitter and his people still talk about that shot. :D
 
Some beautiful drillings in this thread.

Recently stumbled onto this Franz Sodia Ferlach drilling. SxS 20ga over .270 Winchester.

While pheasant hunting we often spook whitetail out of hiding. As they take off running I always think “man I wish I had a Winchester lever action“. Decided to stop living a life of regret and to start hunting with a drilling.

Next Fall is drilling season!
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Some beautiful drillings in this thread.

Recently stumbled onto this Franz Sodia Ferlach drilling. SxS 20ga over .270 Winchester.

While pheasant hunting we often spook whitetail out of hiding. As they take off running I always think “man I wish I had a Winchester lever action“. Decided to stop living a life of regret and to start hunting with a drilling.

Next Fall is drilling season!
View attachment 446713View attachment 446714View attachment 446715View attachment 446716

She’s gorgeous !
 
Wow! that Sodia was a great find!
 
I just bought a new JP Sauer Drilling in 12x12x 30-06 this gun is perfect for the swamps I hunt deer and hogs in Alabama. What I was wondering is What scope I should put on it? I have a trijicon 1-4 and a Swarovski 3-10. the guns scope will be on quick detach mounts. I'm leaning towards the 1-4 but wanted some other opinions before I have mounts built for a scope.
Because of the way claw mounts tilt, straight tubes are the only option UNLESS a ring is placed on the scope bell, which places it much higher. Montage mounts are a different story altogether, as they can swing to the side.
I hunt with mine--killed a spike two years ago with it--all of them are 8x57JR. Once made a 250 yd laser measured shot (twice, two shots before it fell) on a whitetail. Most upland hunting done with it as it is a perfect fit/swing for me.
 
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Just listen to your inner voice, come to the conclusion that 7x57R/16 is sufficient and obey!:giggle:;)
I agree on the 7x57 for sure, I just happened to see a couple 8mm\16s for sale yesterday so it got my mind working hahaha. I have to learn more about the drillings in general before I buy one. Research starts now hahaha.
 
Because of the way claw mounts tilt, straight tubes are the only option UNLESS a ring is placed on the scope bell, which places it much higher. Montage mounts are a different story altogether, as they can swing to the side.
I hunt with mine--killed a spike two years ago with it--all of them are 8x57JR. Once made a 250 yd laser measured shot (twice, two shots before it fell) on a whitetail. Most upland hunting done with it as it is a perfect fit/swing for me.
Thanks I did the project a couple years ago at this point and put a straight tube on it it is amazingly versatile in this area!
 
You will find that the VX-5 and VX-6 ranges from Leupold contain choices for straight tube scopes that wind down to 1x and up to 5x and 6x respectively. I have a Meopta and it works well, these Leupolds are the best from current production models.

Vortex have a strike eagle with a 1-8x magnification range, but….it’s a Vortex. I realise there isn’t anything wrong with it but the reticle is busy and the aesthetics would be a bit weird, lacking in style etc.
 
For many years my most constant companion in Northern Transvaal, now Limpopo province, was a Sauer Drilling .30-06 16/70. I only used Nosler Partition bullets. What a fantastic gun! Mounted was a Zeiss 2.5-10 x52 'cause I‘m addicted to bushpig hunting during fullmoon nights.

Picture shows the result of a morning stalk through state forest bush. Some animals were killed by a colleague, can‘t remember which ones.

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Because of the way claw mounts tilt, straight tubes are the only option UNLESS a ring is placed on the scope bell, which places it much higher. Montage mounts are a different story altogether, as they can swing to the side.
I hunt with mine--killed a spike two years ago with it--all of them are 8x57JR. Once made a 250 yd laser measured shot (twice, two shots before it fell) on a whitetail. Most upland hunting done with it as it is a perfect fit/swing for me.
I'm not entirely agreeing that the only option for claw mounts, are straight tubes.
It is correct that claw mounts need a mounting as far as possible forward, in order to tilt away, but this can be accomplished with the smaller ocular bell's as well.

Below is not a drilling obviously, but as you can see from the mounting, it would be very difficult to mount a scope much lower. With a Swarovski Z6i 1.7-10x42. In fact, I already run into the issue that the bolt handle barely clears the rubber tab on the scope ring. This is something Swarovski should change in their models. Either have no tab extruding from the rear bell. Or have the tab on the other side and you twist it in the opposite direction to increase magnification. At the lowest magnification, there should be nothing to impede the manipulation of the bolt handle.

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I'm not entirely agreeing that the only option for claw mounts, are straight tubes.
It is correct that claw mounts need a mounting as far as possible forward, in order to tilt away, but this can be accomplished with the smaller ocular bell's as well.

Below is not a drilling obviously, but as you can see from the mounting, it would be very difficult to mount a scope much lower. With a Swarovski Z6i 1.7-10x42. In fact, I already run into the issue that the bolt handle barely clears the rubber tab on the scope ring. This is something Swarovski should change in their models. Either have no tab extruding from the rear bell. Or have the tab on the other side and you twist it in the opposite direction to increase magnification. At the lowest magnification, there should be nothing to impede the manipulation of the bolt handle.

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Agreed. How low do you want/need to go?
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