Anyone know a good revolver gunsmith?

On this subject ( @PHOENIX PHIL ) is Bob James of James & Guns still around Phoenix?
 
@Wyatt Smith
If shimming doesn't work you could bubba it and file a tenth of an inch off the back of the barrel
Ha ha ha

Hey @Bob Nelson 35Whelen, That'll do it- me likes it! :):)

The problem, at least the potential, IMO, is this revolver has some age and an unknown background. If the gap is too little or it has been "worked" on or "tuned" up or the barrel changed or the cylinder changed out or the crane tweaked or so on and so forth..., it is hard to say the real issue. No way I would be so 100% sure about the cause of the binding up! The reliable, long term functioning of a revolver is mechanically, fairly complex.

There are two measurements that work in concert with a revolver- headspace and gap. There has to be some of both but if either is out of spec or not in concert with each other, the results can jam or bind the cylinder. End shake is a generic term thrown around by many that may mean either cylinder-barrel gap and/or excess headspace or some combination of the two. Too much headspace and it may become progressively worse as the case head continues to hammer against the recoil plate. As that happens, the carbon ring inside the cylinder chamber begins to move rearward causing fresh rounds to move rearward upon loading and sooner or later their bases will start to drag and bind on the recoil plate while simultaneously the practical cylinder-barrel gap tightens as the cylinder is nudged forward. Too little headspace and there will be continual drag of case head against recoil plate. Too much cylinder-barrel gap and an annoyance of gas and particles will be ejected. Too little gap will cause inevitable drag or binding, especially with dirty ammo or lead accumulation or a combination of the two. If uneasy about how to attempt a fix past a simple minimal washer shim correction, I would not go further and certainly get it to a gunsmith who knows what they are doing with revolvers.
End shake in an S&W is caused by wear/hammering on the end of that part of the cylinder yoke that the cylinder revolves on due to repeated firings, particularly with heavy magnum loads. The fix is to stretch the end of the yoke a bit and ream/trim to fit. Another easy fix is to use shims, as suggested above. Is it possible that the cause might lie elsewhere, yes, but very unlikely. The OP has nothing to lose by spending a buck or two on the shims and see if that works (which is should). Head space should not be an issue; this is a 28-2, so it has a recessed cylinder, so as long as the cylinder revolves without binding against the recoil shield with the cylinder pushed to the rear, there won't be any issue with minimal headspace. Barrel/cylinder gap would only be an issue if Bubba had attempted to fix the problem by filing or cutting the end of the barrel.

Best regards,
 
For revolver repairs contact Dan Norwood at (501 ) 650 - 4371. BTW Dan is the only Triple Distinguished gunsmith I know of. If you contact him, tell him that Art Lambart sent you.
 

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