Lone Star Bluegrass
AH enthusiast
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2022
- Messages
- 343
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- 601
The only thing I can’t get past on the P14/17 conversions is the safety. It’s just unfortunate looking IMO.
It is pre threaded. It was tried on a standard length Mauser action and fitted, but we think that the threads on a magnum Mauser will be the same. Had it not been threaded I would probably build on a CZ550 Magnum because I'm quite familiar with them.If you stumbled across a a pre chambered 500 Jeffery (an unbelievable find) the hunting gods are telling you something, hell they are yelling it................ BUILD!
You didn't say if it was pre-threaded also, if it is not, then your action options are almost unlimited.
Look at this beauty built on a Rem, 30, hence a 1917 Enfield action, AKA P-14.
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Remington 30 Express Custom 500 Schuler/Jeffery caliber rifle for sale.
Remington 30 Express Custom 500 Schuler/Jeffery caliber rifle. Top quality big bore rifle built by Jeffery & Son. Barrel is marked “ W. Jeffery & Son, Plymouth and Palos Verdes”. Floor plate and trigger guard are scroll engraved, and the floor plate has a cape buffalo engraved on it with gold...www.collectorsfirearms.com
Lots of good info there, thanks.Yes the barrel WILL fit the Magnum length action, although a small adjustment may be necessary.
All large ring Mausers are 1.1" X 12 TPI with a 55 degree pitch whitworth thread. The a LR shank length is .625" Small rings are .980" dia and .645 shank length, with the same 12 TPI 55 degree threads. These threads are NOT metric despite what you may hear or read.
Most replacement barrels are cut with a 60 degree pitch on the thread, and sometimes a tad undersize to allow them to fit the small variances found in the millions of Mauser actions made all over the world from different manf. Gunsmiths often coat the threads with medium strength thread lock after headspacing and at the final fitting, to make up for the tad loose fit.
Sometimes the Threads need to be "chased" with a die on the barrel and a tap for the receiver. A lot of people chase the threads with lots of anti seize compound and turning the barrel in and out of the receiver a 1/4 turn at a time until the barrel seats and moves in and out with relative ease. But the tap and die available from gunsmith supply houses and even for rent, from I believe 4D reamers is best used.
The shank length seldom comes out to the exact length after being fitted to the action, headspaced, and with a good tight contact on both the primary and secondary rings of the LR action. But that is a minor issue of no real concern. Crush factor when chinching up the barrel is about .002" to be considered when headspacing.
Talk headspace over with your gunsmith there is a variance between "go" and "no go" and even "go" and when the action will close on new brass. Even a bigger tolerance exists between "go" and "field". While tighter headspace is usually better and makes for a more accurate rifle, it may not be the best choice for a dangerous game rifle.
Africa is a dirty place and you spend a lot of time crawling under the bush. Dirt in the action is a fact of life. A tight headspace MAY and I say ONLY may, make closing the bolt on a quick charge stopping second shot a tad stiff.
This will probably never happen to you, and it has happened to me when hunting, here in Colorado only once. And that was a result of a small amount of ice in the action during a long hard day of hunting in the deep snow on an elk. I have never had it happen to me in Africa, but did see it happen to a PH. It did happen several times in Vietnam to me, and a lot of other GI's with the early M-16's. Of course that is an entirely different action, that lacks the closing power of a bolt. But trouble closing an action resulting from tight tolerances and dirt in a crisis is a really BAD feeling.
That same condition could result not from dirt, but could result from being forced to use ammo (especially if handloads) supplied by the PH if yours becomes lost or missing during travel, not an uncommon event. So discuss it with your gunsmith, you have some leeway. Again not real right or wrong answer here just something to consider on the build.
Like you I don't have a lot money. I'm a retired shop teacher, 73 years old and have to work part time maintenance jobs to save enough for these trips. But that makes me appreciate them all the more. Although I could feel my age in the long stocks during last summers hunt in S. Africa.
Enjoy you buffalo hunt I think hunting them i my favorite. They really do look at you "like you owe them money". A friend who also hunts them say hell no " they look at you like your sleeping with their wife". Any way I've never seen one smile at me.
Good hunting.
@gibbs30cNo problems with push feeds here. As long as a man practices with it using dummy rounds they are as effective as a controlled round feed.
What model of leupold failed? I just bought a 2.5X20 FX for my 500J build. I have had two VXIII chip lenses on my 458 Lott but it was my fault, as I had the ring over the lens and the recoil and tight clamp on the lens is what chipped it, still Leupold stood behind everything 100%.
Hope the FX holds up on the 500J.
I also like to build on the Savage 110 they are not pretty for sure, but they are accurate and dependable, and anyone can barrel one and set the headspace. U tube is full of videos showing how easy it is.
I think any 500J is uncomfortable from the bench, and 10 rounds lets you know you have done something when zeroing.
I agree also about the Mosin Nagant. I have an action I'm thinking of for 405 Win. Looks like a little work on the receiver by the ramp and all would feed and work well.
You have got to try that 500J on a couple of Prairie Dogs, at least once.