.458 WM Project

amschind

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I have been lurking here for quite some time, and after all of the great information that I have gotten for free, I will try to share some experiences which may help otheres. This is a companion thread to another in the .375 and blow forum, with regard to a 2 gun battery that I'm building for Africa.

Briefly, I found a few very cheap and very abused M1938 K.Kale Turk Mausers (in essence, that means that they were new production 1898-type receivers from Turkey with a large ring outer diamter and a small ring sized barrel shank). I wrangled 24" finish length .366 (PACNOR) and .458 (Lilja) stainless barrels, a highly figured Circassian blank from Macon for the 9.3 and a more linear grained Circassian blank from Boyd's for the .458. I got Case hardened 1" Talley rings for both, and got the last of the lightweight Leupold Fixed power scopes (2.5x20 for the .458 and a 6x36 for the 9.3). A custom gunmaker in Canada named Ralf Martini makes beautiful guns that are simply out of my price range (I apologize in advance anyone who looks him up and then gets divorced due to "You spent $25000 on a rifle!?"), but he's an extremely nice guy and was happy to sell me very pretty pivoting release bottom metal at a very reasonable price. I got new Timney triggers for both as well as M70 style 3-position bolt shrouds. Finally, I found new firing pins, extractors, and spring sets as I have no idea what the maintenance on or use of these guns was in the 80 years between manufacture and my purchase (given the fact that one had nearly rusted through the barrel because not all of the patches were removed from the bore and both stocks looked like driftwood, I will estimate "rough"). Still, the actual actions were both in remarkably good shape, which made them great candidates for sporters (I am actually quite proud of myself, as around the same time I bought a M1935 Chilean Orden y Patria carbine which is a beautiful Oberndorf Mauser 7x57mm, and restored it to its former glory instead of butchering it). My gunsmith leans into the "cheap and good" leg of the "Cheap/Fast/Good" triangle, so I still have a wait in front of me.

I almost exclusively handload, so apart from the factory ammo that I bought for my gunsmith to test fire the rifles, they will only be fed handloads unless my ammo vanishes in transit to RSA et c (which is a big reason for the caliber selection above; I would've happily done a .375 Hawk/Scovill and .458 B&M, but good luck finding that in the field). For the .458, recoil is a concern. I started considering this when a friend let me shoot/roped me into helping him sight in his 9.3 from a bench. I realized that standing, it wasn't bad at all. We became friends and I ultimately got to shoot his .416 RM and .505 Gibbs, and I have not had the desire to shoot the Gibbs again. My initial plan was a 9.3 only with 300 grain solids and expanding 286s, but I quickly realized thanks to this forum that doing so might put a crimp on where I could legally go for buffalo. I don't have an interest in any of the Big Five EXCEPT for buffalo, but I would feel cheated if I went to Africa and didn't get one. The old gunsmith with a waxed handlebar moustache in my hometown had a buffalo on the wall of his little shop, and I've wanted one ever since. So that gets me to the need for a legal everywhere DG caliber with available ammo in case my handloads somehow vanish.

To that end, I am only developing a 500 grain Hornady DGS load for this rifle, as it'll stay at camp unless the law demands that I use it (see my thread on the 9.3). I find that I understand less and less about recoil the older that I get. My .50 BMG is pleasant to shoot because it weighs 40# and has a muzzle brake stolen from an M60 tank: it will move you, but gently. My 6.5 Creedmoor with a brake is actually far less pleasant to shoot than my .300 WSM, but the real head-scratcher is that my great-grandfather's 1894 with 170 grain bullets is actually unpleasant even from the shoulder. The .458 has a light sporter barrel and a 2.5x Leupold scope (which has great eye relief), such that the whole thing will probably weigh 8.5# with a full magazine. There is still plenty of time to get the muzzle threaded, but after looking at this forum it still appears that the Great Muzzle Device Debate is still hotly contested. I certainly don't want to deafen anyone, particularly not a poor African guy who depends upon his hearing to make a living, but I have also noticed that Midway is now running regular specials on "pass through" electronic earmuffs. They had Walkers sets on sale for $40 each just last week, and I would be just fine passing those out like party favors if it meant that I got to use a brake. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
 
I think that you are in the right place to get some answers. I will offer my thoughts on caliber, recoil, and muzzle breaks.

Recoil - I have joked with my friends that the best cure for recoil is watching my 120LB wife shoot my 416 Rigby. The point I am trying to make is that ultimately, if you you don't have an injury or some other specific physical consideration, recoil is something that you can learn to manage. You will almost always be shooting off of sticks, and this obviously makes a huge difference. I use a recoil pad and a firm grip to zero scopes and test loads, and then the rest of my shooting is from sticks.

Caliber - Most buffalo in Africa are shot with a .375, probably followed by .416 (I am referring only to clients, and not back up shots by PHs). I own a .458 Lott, and will one day shoot a buffalo with it. I also hope to one day use a double. However, anything larger than a .416 is limiting if you are walking on buffalo, and see something else on your list. With that said, if you already a own a .458WM, and like it, I would talk to your PH/Outfitter and get his thoughts.

Muzzle Breaks - I have a muzzle break on the 300WM that I have used on almost 2 dozen African animals. I have also used it on various ibex, elk, etc. I love this rifle, will continue to use it, and don't want to make any changes. However, I sometimes wish that it did not have the muzzle break for 3 reasons: 1.) my ears when I forget or don't have time to stuff the ear plugs in, 2.) my guides/ trackers ears, and 3.) it alerts game and can decrease the opportunity for a 2nd shot if you miss or make a bad shot. I have seen muzzle breaks on some very nice big bore rifles, so it is not unheard of. With that said, you might be better served by picking up a .375 or a .416 instead of putting a muzzle break on a .458. After all, the cost of a new rifle is relatively small compared to the cost of the hunt.

I hope this helps, and best of luck!
 
Just to ad something:
I was recoil shy too and healed it by optimising my guns, start reloading and hitting the range at least once a week! Plenty Practice is the way out of this Dilemma! Good luck!
 
I put together a two rifle set similar to what you are envisioning. Recoil is not a consideration, after 50 years of shooting heavy recoiling rifles, that mental block has been defeated. Recoil won't kill you.
My set was built on Stainless Ruger M77 Mark II rifles, with Bob Jury barrels and chambered for .375 WSM and .458 WM. The .375 WSM sports a 24" barrel and a 4-12 Leupold scope, while the .458 WM was built as a quick handling Carbine with 20" barrel and NECG open sights, plus a Leupold VX-R 2-7X33 optic. I have various loads worked up for both rifles, from 235 grain to 300 grain in the .375 WSM ans 350 grain to 500 grain in the .458 WM. My reasoning for a fast .375 caliber rifle was that it can reach out with a good payload on larger game, plus can play back up to the .458 WM on DG if required. I went with Stainless and B&C synthetic stocks, to better handle rough conditions and inclement weather. This set can handle anything the world of hunting offers.

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