I haven't completed the stockwork yet. I am building a house currently so the Whitworth took a back seat to it. The rust blue came out everywhere but the bolt handle so it is simply in the white with a bright polish on it. The handle must've been really low carbon steel that doesn't take the blue well.
Must need a particular blue, as they come from factory nicely blued.
Factories hot blue their parts using a caustic nitrate bath at around 300°F. I don't have that setup ( it is wayyy too dangerous and caustic for a "home hobby"). But it does blue almost any ferrous metal. I am using the rust blue method which is a much higher end finish on gunmetal, but it can be finicky. My issue is that I hacked the bolt handle off the Whitworth and TIG welded on a turned bolt knob... likely of different metal, and it isn't taking a blue. I did about 12 coats on it and, while it will get a darker tint, it rubs right off with your fingers after a few bolt cycles.
Only a proper sling. Your hopes are probably well-founded...it is unlikely the rifle has been fired that much--a common response to the hard kickers. Good luck and well done.
Thanks! I built a humidity cabinet for low humidity times. Do you just boil the rust blue in a closed evironment with the parts?
The funny thing is... I actually never use a sling. I've hung up rifles on brush trying to get the gun into gear more times than I can count. But the swing swivel on the barrel just looks amazing.
Yup, gotta keep me mate Bob happy
I just walked in the door with my 3-position Mauser 98 safety made by Parkwest (didn't they take over Dakota?). Reading the instructions, installation is hardly rocket science. I'm confident I can easily do it. $200 plus eight bucks shipping.
Not exaggerating when you said the synthetic stock looks like crap. Ugh!
The bluing on this rifle is already completed and it is detailed in this thread. The process I use is acid rust blue. It is time consuming but produces a much nicer finish than a common hot blue and it is more durable. The only "downside" for most Americans is that most are used to seeing the deep blue/black of a hot caustic blue and think that it is done wrong if it doesn't look like an 1985 Remington barrel.
Two years ago I had my Springfield rust blued by a hunting guide in New Brunswick. He did a beautiful job. Couldn't beat the price. $120 ($100 US) for barrel, receiver, and bottom metal (which only had floor plate and trigger guard dolled up). And he did the rail. I also left bolt, extractor, and striker white. And I cut the knob off striker to make it pseudo Mauser (also to reach aftermarket left-hand pseudo Mauser scope safety).
yes
Thats a rust blue? and he did it for $120? Thats a major steal. Thats like.... $8 an hour minus materials. probably more like $5 if you deduct the chemicals. it looks really shiny too... is it coated in a thick layer of oil?
It's hot oxide bluing which, as I understand it, is the same as rust bluing. He only blued receiver/barrel and trigger guard/floor plate. Not the bolt, shroud, or striker. I see he has raised his rates so I don't expect my Mauser will be as cheap. He was supposed to blue it with a batch this week but I had problems getting the new barrel to group. Finally got what I needed today. Still unclear if the problem was too much gas in the loads, holding the gun inconsistently, scope gone wonky, or new barrel break in. Three shots in lower left are 404 Jeffery with 400 gr Barnes @ 100 yards using my Springfield's 3x9 Nikon scope. First two shots through cold barrel are touching. Third drifted slightly but still sub minute of buffalo. Would have preferred more time at the range but can't waste any more components. Some 325 gr bullets shipped today but brass is nowhere to be found. The two shots above center bull are iron sights on Springfield @ 50 yards (165 gr 30-06 Hornady cup-and-core). I forgot the old 3x Weaver scope at home so checked iron sights. The Mauser will just have to go to Africa half in the white. Hope it doesn't rain. Ryan will get the gun for bluing when I return. I was stunned at the amount of recoil that heavy beast can generate. Literally stunned. "How many fingers, Pat?" "Uh ... what are fingers? What planet are we on?"
Ok ok. Hot Oxide is a different process using Nitrate salts and Sodium Hydroxide. It tends to produce that really deep blue that factory finishes have. It is still magnetite but it is all done in one go. Usually takes about an hour or so not including prep. Rust blue is a process of repeatedly rusting using rust blue solution at room temperature, steaming or boiling the rusted parts to turn the red oxide into tougher, resilient magnetite. Rinse repeat... etc. Rust blue will never produce a really glossy blued barrel, but will produce that satin finish so commonly seen on turn of the century rifles. You can easily do it at home and produce excellent, tough bluing but it is INCREDIBLY time consuming. A typical rust blue job by a gunsmith probably runs $600-$1,000 near me, whereas a hot blue can be had for around $175. I have been rust bluing project guns for around 10 years now and I really like the way it turns out... plus its cheaper than me paying someone to blue guns for me.
Thanks. I spend as little time as possible at rifle range so really have little concept of what is acceptable and what is not re groups. Still not entirely clear what MOA means. However, the previous trip to range can be seen under duct tape patches on right side of that target. I'm pretty sure that was not acceptable from the bench.
