404 Jeffery barrel length?

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I'm building a 404 Jeffery on a BRNO vz.24 action and the barrel maker should be finished any day. Then I have to have it threaded, reamed, cut, and crowned. It will come from him 28" long tapered and bored. What length shall I have it cut? Weight isn't a big issue. Actually, lack of weight would be a bigger issue as I have damaged retinas. Excessive muzzle jump can impede quick follow up and more likely to get hit with the scope. But of course I don't want something that is unwieldy either. My 30-06 weighs a bit over nine pounds according to my bathroom scales and it has a 24" barrel. It is comfortable enough to carry and incredibly steady when mounted. Nicely balanced. The taper on the Jeffery barrel is fairly heavy (no surprise given the caliber).
 
I'm building a 404 Jeffery on a BRNO vz.24 action and the barrel maker should be finished any day. Then I have to have it threaded, reamed, cut, and crowned. It will come from him 28" long tapered and bored. What length shall I have it cut? Weight isn't a big issue. Actually, lack of weight would be a bigger issue as I have damaged retinas. Excessive muzzle jump can impede quick follow up and more likely to get hit with the scope. But of course I don't want something that is unwieldy either. My 30-06 weighs a bit over nine pounds according to my bathroom scales and it has a 24" barrel. It is comfortable enough to carry and incredibly steady when mounted. Nicely balanced. The taper on the Jeffery barrel is fairly heavy (no surprise given the caliber).

OD might be bigger, ID will also have more material removed. 22" to me seem like a good trade off. Still have good velocities and handles well. Not trying to be negative in any manner, please set your expectations on the recoil. Have read many post where people are disappointed in the amount of recoil they received from their new 404 build. Their is no free meals, a 400gr bullet going 2250 out of a 10# rifle is going to feel the same weather we are talking about a 416 or a 404.

With that said if you rather more weight go 25" you will get to the same velocity with less powder which means less recoil. Good luck on your quest.
 
My 404J started life as a 300 RUM Win Mod 70 Super Grade. I bought a Krieger, #5 contour, barrel. I used Dennis Olson for the conversion and we decided on 23 inch barrel length. I am very happy with the results. I think the rifle weighs a bit over 9 lbs.
 
I would start at 25". you can always take another inch or two if you're not happ. That little extra weight out front can't hurt in keeping the muzzle down under recoil.
 
IExcessive muzzle jump can impede quick follow up and more likely to get hit with the scope. But of course I don't want something that is unwieldy either.

Barrel length doesn’t make a rifle unwieldy, a heavy clumsy stock has a much greater effect. Just handle any well balanced British .300 H&H with a 25-26” barrel. They handle like a proverbial magic wand. Likewise for an A-type Oberndorf Mauser. My 24” barrel 9,3x62 Oberndorf is by far the rifle that points the best and with which I acquire the sight picture the quickest in my safe.

I would say start with 24”, you can always take more away, but the extra bit of barrel weight will stand you in very good stead.
 
My 404J started life as a 300 RUM Win Mod 70 Super Grade. I bought a Krieger, #5 contour, barrel. I used Dennis Olson for the conversion and we decided on 23 inch barrel length. I am very happy with the results. I think the rifle weighs a bit over 9 lbs.
Almost exactly the same set up for me from Dennis Olson as well. It's been a great rifle.

I also have a 24" barreled Lon Paul 404 that's just a little heavier due to the stock configuration.

I cant tell any difference in barrel length when handling the two.
 
I had my rifle made with a 23" barrel. I'm also a towering 5' 5" and longer barrels almost guarantee I will use it as an unexpected shovel followed by many explicit phrases. The gun points like a dream and really is plenty easy shooting.

23" has become my favorite barrel length.
 
My 458 has a factory barrel. 25 " I think. The feel of a rifle is about balance for me. It balances just infront of the trigger guard. I have handled many shorter rifles, some good some bad. The 375 version of my rifle has the same barrel contour but a smaller hole down the middle. It doesnt handle as well. Think about leaving barrel length and maybe adding a bit of weight in the stock to balance it. It will reduce recoil and help your eyes. I vote balance is better for handling than a short barrel and weight yames recoil.
 
I’m going with a 24 inch barrel on the one I am having built. I really like the 24 inch barrel on my M70 375 so that is why I’m going with the 24 inch barrel on the new build. Good insight so far on this thread.
 
I'm building a 404 Jeffery on a BRNO vz.24 action and the barrel maker should be finished any day. Then I have to have it threaded, reamed, cut, and crowned. It will come from him 28" long tapered and bored. What length shall I have it cut? Weight isn't a big issue. Actually, lack of weight would be a bigger issue as I have damaged retinas. Excessive muzzle jump can impede quick follow up and more likely to get hit with the scope. But of course I don't want something that is unwieldy either. My 30-06 weighs a bit over nine pounds according to my bathroom scales and it has a 24" barrel. It is comfortable enough to carry and incredibly steady when mounted. Nicely balanced. The taper on the Jeffery barrel is fairly heavy (no surprise given the caliber).
What are your anticipated shooting ranges and hunting environments where you’d actually use your .404J?

Wayne built my AHR .404 with a 23” tube, (McGowen, IIRC), which is perfect for my needs.

Old School magnum rifles were generally standardized at 24” minimum, but examples exist with 26” barrels (some 27”). If all or most of your shots will be long ones taken over open savannah, the longer tube is a benefit. But if you‘re hunting the big Alaskan bruins in thick alder bushes or in the dark timbered areas, the longer barrel is actually a detriment to maneuverability and quick handling, not to mention being unnecessary for practical “hunting accuracy” at shorter ranges.

Mine:

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I have a 30-06 for plains game. If I shoot any more buffalo, it will be in heavy cover. Watching guys in videos slogging through bug infested long grass river deltas for 150-200 yard shots at one animal in a herd of 200 has convinced me that's not my thing. I prefer cat and mouse close range in thick cover for a small band of grumpy sex starved dagga boys. I don't see any advantage to a 27" barrel except possibly less recoil and muzzle jump. I know from personal experience how important balance and fit can be for fast shooting, especially at targets on the run.
 
Anywhere from 22-24 inches depending on the balance of the rifle and hunting condition. A well balanced rifle deters felt recoil better then a front heavy rifle.
 
Anywhere from 22-24 inches depending on the balance of the rifle and hunting condition. A well balanced rifle deters felt recoil better then a front heavy rifle.
Problem: How do I check the balance without cutting the barrel? It has to be threaded on to check balance. Then keep cutting it back and reattaching till it's right? I suppose I could put on my thinking cap and calculate what needs to be removed using specific gravity, diameter, minus bore cylinder. Sure. Use a counterweight on the butt end to determine how much weight needs to be removed from 28" barrel to balance the gun just ahead of trigger. Then calculate the metal to remove by first determining mass per cm of barrel (should be minimal taper at muzzle end). Calculate the mass per cm of solid barrel using cylinder volume formula and specific gravity of steel. Then subtract mass of bore metal cylinder from above barrel cylinder per cm. The grams weight of counterweight x mass of muzzle per cm = amount to cut off the end of the barrel. Yep, that should work. This stock has a lot of meat to it. Hmm. I should see how it's balanced with the temporary 30-06 barrel on it now. I'll go unlock it (just came home from shooting skeet and need to put the shotgun away). ... Okay, with scope attached it balances at front of magazine with 23.5" barrel and no recoil pad (yet ... it's in the mail today). An inch of wood will come off the butt for recoil pad.

Fitting the new bottom metal took the entire day yesterday. Seems the machining was off just slightly. Of course wood is still unfinished. That will be very last.
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Plenty of online calculators to get you close on barrel weight per length. You also have the option of adding weight to the front if need be too. You have all kinds of options when it comes to balancing your rifle.
 
Plenty of online calculators to get you close on barrel weight per length. You also have the option of adding weight to the front if need be too. You have all kinds of options when it comes to balancing your rifle.
Online apps? What's the fun in that? I get a bigger kick from figuring things out for myself. Must be the high school teacher that still resides in me ... with the surveyor, policeman, firefighter, crane operator, carpenter, cowboy, horse packer, farrier, park ranger, truck driver, EMT, law clerk, historian. I'm sure I'm forgetting a couple of careers. Variety and learning new things is what makes life worth living.
 
I chose a 23" PacNor barrel for my 404J, which weighs 10 lbs., 3 oz, with scope and sling. Doing it again, I'd chose the same barrel length. My PH thought I should cut it to about 20", but then it would be too short to be handsome.
 
Most of mine are 24", but I do have some shorter and some longer. I think that you'd be happy with anything in the 22"-24" range. Long enough, but not unwieldy.
 
It's coming along. Just waiting for 404 barrel to be finished. Then I drive to Montana to pick it up and have it mounted. Spin off this 30-06 aftermarket barrel that came on the action and leave it there for my brother to sell. Seems to be almost new. No rosewood available so I made up a fore end tip from zebrawood blank. This gun features 416 Rem bottom metal from Blackburn-Swift , Timney trigger, 3-position Model 70 style safety/bolt shroud from Parkwest (formerly Dakota Arms I think), and magnum follower from New England Custom Gun. The recoil pad was scavenged from a broken stock for my old 870 goose gun. And the 3x Weaver was retired from my Springfield four years ago. Dad bought that scope for me in 1972 and it killed a PILE of game.
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