375h&h guidance - bullets, dies, and brass

[rookhawk]

Questions for 375 handloaders

I would prefer to end up with 1 load for the caliber (i know... i know) and use it on everything up to cape buffalo, hippo, and croc.
For Africa travel, I'll run a 300WM and 375 on a blaser so no issue with plains game overkill issues.

Questions:
I like the RCBS matchmaster die sets with the adjustable seaters but it doesn't seem to be available for the caliber and if they were, I'm not sure it would fit in my old rockchucker. Any suggestions on dies and presses?

I typically buy a few boxes of a cartridge if it comes in the bullet I like and then re-use the fireformed brass with the same bullet. I don't see a lot of availability for the Barnes TSX 300gr which seems to be well regarded. If I start with virgin brass, what brands are recommended? I run Lapua on other calibers but don't see that for 375.

If I don't over-size the brass, how many reloads can i expect?

Any issues running hardcast 300 grains in a blaser for recreational pig patrol duties?

Some answers to a few of your questions:

Yes, 300gr Barnes TTSX or TSX is a great bullet. The 270gr barnes is a volumetrically large bullet since its 22% lighter than lead, so that is a good choice as well that tends to regulate well in many guns.

Regardless of die choice, make sure to drop the $15 for a Lee crimping die for your 375HH. You'll save the $15 in no time at all by avoiding stuck bullets and improper seatings with your dies by doing the crimp on a dedicated die after seating.

Lapua, Petersen, Remington, Winchester, and Norma are all fine brass. Professional loaders are singing the praises recently of Petersen for less cost and longer life than Lapua.

Brass life is based primarily on how hot your loads are. RL 15 powder typically provides best accuracy in 375HH at a moderate load which extends your brass life quite a bit.

Bonus answer: Reloader 15 is your friend on this mission.

 

[fourfive8]

Yes ^^ I've seen at least two references in this thread recommending the Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) for crimping bullets. It is one of the true genius items designed and made by Lee. Some of their stuff is questionable but the FCD is a must, IMO, for heavy recoiling cartridges. It does a superior job of crimping. Be sure to back out your bullet seating die during initial set up so the crimp shoulder in the bullet seating die does not contact the case mouth. Set the FCD for full finger compression of the case mouth rim into the bullet's crimp groove when crimping. It is the last operation of the loading process. You can watch the fingers compress the case mouth rim into the crimp groove. Do not over compress- set FCD die so the fingers just touch each other at full stroke of case into die.

 

[Rich s]

Just buy the Lee die set. It comes with the crimp die. Reloader 15 from the Barnes reloading manual with 300 gr tsx

 

[WyoBull]

RL15 with 300 gr Barnes TSX running at 2475 fps in my Win Model 70 is just the ticket I was looking for when I worked up this load.
It will cloverleaf 3 rounds at 100 yards from the bench and the attached photo is 3 rounds at 100 yards off shooting sticks right after we arrived at camp in Africa. The sticker is 1” diameter.

 

[Lone Star Bluegrass]

RCBS dies are fine. So are Lyman. I know plenty of National Match competitors that use both brands. If you’re going into a high stress situation, make sure you have verified every cartridge (factory, hand load, hand me down, whatever) will feed AND chamber in your rifle.
PPU brass is fine quality and affordable—looks like a well respected sponsor of the site has some in stock, 100-150 pieces is more than enough for load development, zero, practice, and a hunting season before you need to anneal and trim. Lee makes an acceptable trim die, and an economical crimp die to match (I recommend a light-medium crimp).
TSX projectiles are still around if you look (Grafs has them in stock). Availability and pricing are not always synonymous, but when you’re in the larger size calibers you need to heed the words of Hyman Roth, “this is the business we have chosen!”

 

[Datchew]

one last question:

I've read that traveling to Africa the law requires you to use factory boolits.
Is this still the case?
Perhaps i'd just put my handloads in the factory box. No point in building a handload and sighting in drops and such just to have to switch to factory rounds.

 

[PHOENIX PHIL]

one last question:

I've read that traveling to Africa the law requires you to use factory boolits.
Is this still the case?
Perhaps i'd just put my handloads in the factory box. No point in building a handload and sighting in drops and such just to have to switch to factory rounds.

They want you to use packaging that keeps the loads secure. I've always used some sort of MTM case meant for ammunition and never had a problem.

 

[Qc_BearHunter]

RL15 with 300 gr Barnes TSX running at 2475 fps in my Win Model 70 is just the ticket I was looking for when I worked up this load.
It will cloverleaf 3 rounds at 100 yards from the bench and the attached photo is 3 rounds at 100 yards off shooting sticks right after we arrived at camp in Africa. The sticker is 1” diameter.

View attachment 557034

No doubt this is good shooting if the range was 100 yards, but these stickers are about 2 inches in diameter.

 

[WyoBull]

one last question:

I've read that traveling to Africa the law requires you to use factory boolits.
Is this still the case?
Perhaps i'd just put my handloads in the factory box. No point in building a handload and sighting in drops and such just to have to switch to factory rounds.

I reload all of my ammunition and what I did was called Barnes and had them send me 3 empty boxes and the plastic shell inserts for my 375 H&H. They were happy to do it and I think I sent them a little money for helping me out.

I put my reloads in the factory boxes and then put those 3 boxes in my lockable ammo case.

 

[WyoBull]

No doubt this is good shooting if the range was 100 yards, but these stickers are about 2 inches in diameter.

I thought they were 1 inch but I could be wrong and if so, I stand corrected. The range was definitely 100 yards as I verified it with my range finding binoculars.
My rifle is very accurate with this load and if a person will practice off sticks to get very comfortable shooting this way, one can shoot very acceptable groups.
Thanks for correcting me on the sticker size.

 

[Arctic97]

Questions for 375 handloaders

I would prefer to end up with 1 load for the caliber (i know... i know) and use it on everything up to cape buffalo, hippo, and croc.
For Africa travel, I'll run a 300WM and 375 on a blaser so no issue with plains game overkill issues.

Questions:
I like the RCBS matchmaster die sets with the adjustable seaters but it doesn't seem to be available for the caliber and if they were, I'm not sure it would fit in my old rockchucker. Any suggestions on dies and presses?

I typically buy a few boxes of a cartridge if it comes in the bullet I like and then re-use the fireformed brass with the same bullet. I don't see a lot of availability for the Barnes TSX 300gr which seems to be well regarded. If I start with virgin brass, what brands are recommended? I run Lapua on other calibers but don't see that for 375.

If I don't over-size the brass, how many reloads can i expect?

Any issues running hardcast 300 grains in a blaser for recreational pig patrol duties?

Don't forget the Barnes 350 gr TSX as an option. If you are thinking of Hippo, the 350 has advantages. I used them this year and they do work well. Did not recover one from my buffalo, but left my remaining rounds with my PH and he just sent me a pic of one he recovered from a Giraffe that was downed with just this one round. He said they work great. Also shown here are a couple targets that were used to see what it was actually doing at various ranges before I left for the hunt. It shoots very flat out to about 130 yards. Way further than you should need it.

Barnes 350 gr TSX looking just like it should..

 

[Datchew]

You guys are a wealth of info.
Much appreciated.

 

[Lone Star Bluegrass]

You guys are a wealth of info.
Much appreciated.

What powder are you using?

 

[Arctic97]

What powder are you using?

Not sure if you were talking to me, but if so....
59.0 grs of IMR-4064. Getting about 2135 fps out of my 25" barrel, as measured about 10' from the muzzle. Not a max load at all, just a nice sweet spot load.

 

[Lone Star Bluegrass]

Not sure if you were talking to me, but if so....
59.0 grs of IMR-4064. Getting about 2135 fps out of my 25" barrel, as measured about 10' from the muzzle. Not a max load at all, just a nice sweet spot load.

I meant the OP but I appreciate the data point—load info for 350s isn’t very commonly found.

 

[C.W. Richter]

Rock chucker works just fine here (probably a gen 1 not a 2). RCBS or Redding. NOT Hdy dies (i broke one in 375 and 3006 and that's never happened w/ the aforementioned 2.) RL15 works exceptionally well in 375 HH (you may wish to start and work up but 77 gr 270, 70 gr 300, 66 gr 350 TSX w/ CCI LMR 250s-best SD hunting primers.) I think even a std case trimmer works up to 375....it's the 338 A-Sq (338-378 Wby predecessor on the 460 Wby case) that required the larger Lyman trimmer for up to 50 BMG! Consider using the 350s for African DG. You can read up on it in Kevin Robertson's Africa's Most Dangerous. I caution you regarding high test loads in 375 as they don't work in every single gun....I had a very heavy-duty Steyr ST (and custom Win M70 that could both handle the hottest, but my son's more std American Montana (hefty but not that hefty) 1999 preferred more modest loads. In the end, max loads are not required and you'll often shoot the rifle best with a lesser load (esp. in 375 which tends to overdo it a bit in the V department. I recall 270s flying just under 2800 fps w/ hot loads, whereas I'm sure <2600 is more than adequate. The 350s will go 2350-2400, but with its ultra-high SD and equivalent V it behaves just like a 416! In that case you can use Barnes X and Bandeds or Woodleigh FMJs for backup or thick skinned beasts like ele, rhino and giraffe. Good luck. 1-6 or 2-7 scopes are best for 375s as you may get some longer shots at PG or NA game. Somewhere I have a video of testing the 270s out on woodchucks at 100-150 yds (as i'm fond of doing that with any new gun. A great summertime test prior to Africa!) I'll have to find it...Don't overlook Swift SPs either-they're the best.

 

[Datchew]

What powder are you using?

I'll probably try some Varget (because I have a large amount) and then some RL15 as it seems to be very popular for the cartridge.

 

[Rafiki]

I just went through this exercise...

Redding dies
Norma cases
VV N540 powder
CCI250 primers
300gr Peregrine VRG3 for practise
300gr DGX Bonded and DGS for hunting
I use a Forster Co-Ax press
My rifle's accuracy node is around 2508fps

I may be reading too much into this but you said here that you use Peregrine's for practice and DG[x] for hunting; what have you found out about Peregrine that puts you off to using them for hunting. I'm interested because I just this week got some Peregrine's (VRG2 & VRG3) for the 375 and the 500. All I've heard is that they are a great bullet. If you know something different please let us know.

 

[C.W. Richter]

I'll probably try some Varget (because I have a large amount) and then some RL15 as it seems to be very popular for the cartridge.

My 416 really likes varget the 375 shot it well but 15 worked better

 

[Hunter-Habib]

I’ve found myself pondering the same question now, for quite a while. What 2 bullets out of a .375 Holland & Holland Magnum can be successfully employed against every form of wild game on the planet ?

After giving it great thought, I’ve decided on:
- 300Gr Swift A Frame expanding bullets
- 300Gr Cutting Edge Safari Solid non expanding bullets

You need nothing else…