2023 Model 70 win ...in .375 h&h..upgrades?

[Ontario Hunter]

Take off the trigger guard and see if you can remove the floor plate catch and spring. I think there is a retaining screw visible when the guard is removed. As I wrote earlier, I used a AR-15 spring in a 450 Rigby. That rifle has a lot more recoil than any of my 375, 416, or 458 Win or Lott rifles. Problem was solved.

AR-15 parts are everywhere in the USA and easy to find. Probably half of the guys in your local gun club have a few in their parts bin...

He could also try simply adding more tension to the spring by stretching it longer.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Its not necessary, but I like the metal to metal contact with no wood to compress. Also when you remove and reinstall the barreled action it goes back to zero perfectly.

I have both my rifles bedded with JB Weld at both forward and rear action screws. Seems to serve the same purpose as pillars. Correct?

 

[Jim Golden]

Its not necessary, but I like the metal to metal contact with no wood to compress. Also when you remove and reinstall the barreled action it goes back to zero perfectly.

I pillar bedded my .375 Wby Enfield, cross bolted it, and glass bedded the action and part of the barrel. It's nice and solid. Will do the same on my .458 Lott Enfield build....

 

[YancyW]

Which bolt knob do you like that does not hit the scope on these M70's?

Bolt Knobs

But there are tons of them available. I have my smith change the angle if needed.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I have both my rifles bedded with JB Weld at both forward and rear action screws. Seems to serve the same purpose as pillars. Correct?

If there is any way the screw being over tightened could compress wood, It won’t be as good as a pillar. I believe (not sure) that the Mauser kind of has a built in pillar where the bottom metal meets the action. The rear does not.
I have plenty of rifles not pillar bedded, and I probably won’t go to the trouble, but the pillars are nice for sure.

 

[rgsiii]

I would personally take the gun out and shoot it. If the gun has any issues start at that point. Try it and see what it shoots/feeds well. Is the length/eye relief ok? Get the basics figured out before going off on tangents.
I own about 20 Model 70’s from every period and other than one with a heavy trigger and one that a previous owner “worked on the trigger” I have never had issues.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

If there is any way the screw being over tightened could compress wood, It won’t be as good as a pillar. I believe (not sure) that the Mauser kind of has a built in pillar where the bottom metal meets the action. The rear does not.
I have plenty of rifles not pillar bedded, and I probably won’t go to the trouble, but the pillars are nice for sure.

Correct. The Mauser forward action screw is seated in the recoil lug attached to receiver where it joins the barrel. I was always told there should be a slight gap between the receiver and magazine/bottom metal. Otherwise I suppose it could be possible to have the screw torqued to max and action still loose in the stock. I have a broken old commercial FN stock given to me that has a thin steel sleeve at the rear action screw, supposedly to act as a sort of pillar. It's thin enough to probably compress a bit if torqued up hard. I have not pillared any of my rifles. Perhaps a pillar at rear action screw might be more useful in big bore rifle for preventing stock damage? I can't see a need to be terribly fussy about accuracy in a hundred yard gun. Minute of buffalo is what ... ten inches?

 

[62flint]

In 1910, W.W Greener wrote (in The Gun and its Development): In no country are better sportsmen to be found than in the United States of America, nor does any country possess keener buyers or better men of business, yet is so much of the worthless of the (mass production) gun-factories offered for sale. The Boers are a race of sportsmen, but it is no use to offer them rubbish at any price, and the author can hardly believe that the astute American will sacrifice everything to cheapness.

I don't mean to be rude, but the idea of buying a new rifle and then 'upgrading' it by fiddling with it and possibly replacing parts, strikes me as bizarre. Nor does it say much for the quality of product that Winchester is selling.

Apparently, there are so many after-market add-ons to a Harley Davidson motorcycle that you can build yourself a new engine without a single part from the factory. In which case (if you are inclined to do so)... why are you buying that motorcycle - or rifle - in the first place?

As I say, I have no wish to be unpleasant, but if you are spending your money on something that needs work on it to operate as you want it to, perhaps you have bought the wrong product to begin with. No European would buy a new rifle with the intent of throwing half of it away and rebuilding it.

Because American's are never satisfied and want their rifle or motorcycle to have their touch. The AR market is a fine example of this.

 

[Amphibious]

I own five "Modern" CRF M70's. Carried on countless hunting days in British Columbia and abroad. No silly Blinds and tree stands. Backpacks and bootleather, rain and snow. At least two have gone swimming. Nothing has ever broken. They are a solid, overbuilt rifle. The only thing I "upgraded" were the triggers, stocks and glass bedding. Three wear McMillan stocks and they all wear Timney's as that is my preference, but far from needed. I also have a collection of Sako 75 & 85's that get left at home more and more often as I keep grabbing the M70's.

The most recent acquisition is, like yours, a Safari in 375 H&H. it will be traveling to Africa with me in 2025. 1-6x glass in some QR mounts and she's good to go.

 

[Tango]

These rifles are fabulous as is, don't be in a rush to go looking for issues prior to shooting yours seriously. My .375 is a 2019 model. I'd be very careful with changes and "upgrades." Not to say that issues can't happen, especially with big bores, but before tearing the rifle apart, I'd buy a pile of ammo and start shooting it hard in field-type scenarios (off sticks, from a full magazine, running the bolt under stress etc). Any issues/weaknesses will quickly reveal themselves. I put just under 250 rounds through mine prior to the first hunt with it. As with all my rifles, it got a thorough cleaning and I checked the screws to ensure they're properly torqued prior to its first use. All that being said, it performed wonderfully in Africa last summer. One of my absolute favorite rifles. Buy yourself one of the compact Fix It Stix kits with the proper bits and torque wrench. That goes along on all my hunts.

 

[channelkat]

4. Swap out magazine spring for a M98 Mauser surplus spring. These do break! I've carried extra to Africa for AH members and provided same to AH members stateside.
5. Swap out extractor for Pre-64 M70 extractor. If not available have a gunsmith fit a M98, P14/17 extractor. War surplus parts were designed to be soldier-proof!

Great thread! I have been looking for a mag spring and had no idea a M98 would fit. Never thought about some of these ideas. like locktiteing the cross bolts.

 

[akrifleman]

Take off the trigger guard and see if you can remove the floor plate catch and spring. I think there is a retaining screw visible when the guard is removed. As I wrote earlier, I used a AR-15 spring in a 450 Rigby. That rifle has a lot more recoil than any of my 375, 416, or 458 Win or Lott rifles. Problem was solved.

AR-15 parts are everywhere in the USA and easy to find. Probably half of the guys in your local gun club have a few in their parts bin...

The difference is very noticeable. Before fixing, I fiddled around with it, and by just pushing the door around I could pop it open. After the spring change, it is locked down much much tighter. The latch pin is significantly harder to depress now, but doesn't require tools. Much happier.