1910 Mannlicher

[Brian Rothhammer]

I tried the Kynoch ammo once. Actually about 5 times. I think I had four cases split at the web.

Mine does have a Lyman peep, but I've not found it to be in the way.

I bought a single box of five Kynoch 9.5X57MS as 'case candy' and, per this assessment of yours and of others that I have read, they'll stay in the box.

I like your Lyman 1A very much.

 

[Brian Rothhammer]

Indeed- the 1910 is the 9.5x57 or 9.5x56 if you go by the Austrian designation since they measure from the groove of the rim.
The 1903 is the 6.5 MS
The 1905 is the 9x56
The 1908 is the 8x56

Also, M1900 and all of the Greek contract (Y1903, Y1903/14, Y/1903/14/27, System Mannlicher) models were 6.5X54. M1924 were .30-'06.

The 9.5X57 was known to the British trade as .375 Nitro Express Rimless, or .375 RNE.

 

[Brian Rothhammer]

I'll post this before Brian does:
View attachment 672548

Good call.

Build them _precisely_ like the Eley drawing and they will feed / function flawlessly.

Vary from those specs and they likely will not.

 

[Brian Rothhammer]

wow thanks for all the information.
The rifle is a 1910 TD carbine lenght barrel 20 inches, it is a 9.5 x 57 verified by a chamber cast, it has the tang sight. I just finished fabricating the takedown pin after Brian provided me with a drawing...

I am _very_ glad to be an influence toward proper restoration of another fine old MS.

Original pre WW2 MS stocks were very svelte and rather thin in the wrist. The dimensions, however, as well as carefully engineered 'cast' of stock, were _very_ well executed and added greatly to their legendary 'snap shooting' characteristics.

Are the stocks weak? Compared to many, yes. They are not, however, canoe paddles.

If you're second guessing the engineering of pre WW2 OWGS, consider carefully. They were rather good at what they did. On the other hand, its your rifle.

 

[Brian Rothhammer]

I just finished fabricating the takedown pin after Brian provided me with a drawing, the spring was from another member. I am also having to make a latch for the pistol grip container as the tab was broken off. unless some could advise me where to go for the small parts.

By the way; if you could produce and make those TD forend pins (with spring) and / or other small parts available you would do a great service to the MS community. A few dozen would be an asset.

 

[Brian Rothhammer]

What I really need is someone who will replicate an early (1920s) stock for one of my 1903s, who will not charge the bleeding eyes out of your head!

If you ever find such a person, do share with all!

I'm still rather 'bummed' that those who worked on pocket watches have gone extinct and that I can't use my old dial telephones (of the 1920s - 40s) on the current network where I live.

 

[SaintPanzer]

If you ever find such a person, do share with all!

I'm still rather 'bummed' that those who worked on pocket watches have gone extinct and that I can't use my old dial telephones (of the 1920s - 40s) on the current network where I live.

If I give you a link to one of these, can you find me a stock person?

what I have: a 1922 M1903 stock that has been broken, poorly repaired, and has a chunk out of the fore end. It was replaced (and is useable) with a 1950 stock, but I want correct.

I just need a good duplicator. I can find walnut. I don't even need pretty walnut. I'll just take usable.

Heck, I'm willing to pay an apprentice who's willing to build his portfolio!

Re: the Eley drawing: One bummer. Using the 270 grain Woodleighs, the cannelure is in the wrong place. I'm looking for a good die that can get me a taper crimp just below it. The Woodleigh Cannelure is just a bit short. I have some Hornadys with which to play... but hoping I can still get the Woodleighs to feed.

 

[SaintPanzer]

I bought a single box of five Kynoch 9.5X57MS as 'case candy' and, per this assessment of yours and of others that I have read, they'll stay in the box.

I like your Lyman 1A very much.

I was bummed about the Kynoch. It was fun to shoot, and I didn't notice the cracks until after my needle shoot. I collapsed shoulders trying to make dummy rounds with Woodleigh bullets. I have a couple left to make display pieces, and maybe, if I'm lucky, a comparator to find the lands. What else can I do with soft brass and Berdan primer cases?

I used the Dorfner rounds I had for great fun in a cinema shoot. I'm really hoping an SHM order comes through.

 

[MS 9x56]

I am _very_ glad to be an influence toward proper restoration of another fine old MS.

Original pre WW2 MS stocks were very svelte and rather thin in the wrist. The dimensions, however, as well as carefully engineered 'cast' of stock, were _very_ well executed and added greatly to their legendary 'snap shooting' characteristics.

Are the stocks weak? Compared to many, yes. They are not, however, canoe paddles.

If you're second guessing the engineering of pre WW2 OWGS, consider carefully. They were rather good at what they did. On the other hand, its your rifle.

If you want to see what modern engineering considers a stock improvement just handle a CZ 550 FS. No one will ever accuse them of being weak or svelte. Improvement? I prefer my MS stock. Just one old hunters opinion.

 

[Brian Rothhammer]

what I have: a 1922 M1903 stock that has been broken, poorly repaired, and has a chunk out of the fore end. It was replaced (and is useable) with a 1950 stock, but I want correct.



Re: the Eley drawing: One bummer. Using the 270 grain Woodleighs, the cannelure is in the wrong place. I'm looking for a good die that can get me a taper crimp just below it. The Woodleigh Cannelure is just a bit short. I have some Hornadys with which to play... but hoping I can still get the Woodleighs to feed.

I have never used Woodleighs, but have used Hornady #3715 with consistent and satisfactory results. The cannelure lands just about right. Watch Midway USA for 'blemish' .375 270 grain RN.

**** Do this right now! - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010443528?pid=590071
They appear rarely, don't miss it.

I have purchased them in the past and am entirely convinced that they are Hornady #3715, likely left over from Ruger .375 production. The cannelure lands just right.

Left to right:
1 ) Reed's Custom 9.5X57 (9.3X57 drawn straight, loaded with Hornady 3715)
2 ) One of my 1990s handloads of fresh .35 Whelen brass, run through RCBS dies and trimmed to proper length, stuffed with Hornady 3715
3 ) Original DWM 531
4 ) Fired case of #2

 

[7x57Joe]

If you want to see what modern engineering considers a stock improvement just handle a CZ 550 FS. No one will ever accuse them of being weak or svelte. Improvement? I prefer my MS stock. Just one old hunters opinion.

Totally agree with your assessment MS 9x56!

 

[SaintPanzer]

I have never used Woodleighs, but have used Hornady #3715 with consistent and satisfactory results. The cannelure lands just about right. Watch Midway USA for 'blemish' .375 270 grain RN.

**** Do this right now! - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010443528?pid=590071
They appear rarely, don't miss it.

I have purchased them in the past and am entirely convinced that they are Hornady #3715, likely left over from Ruger .375 production. The cannelure lands just right.

View attachment 672868

Left to right:
1 ) Reed's Custom 9.5X57 (9.3X57 drawn straight, loaded with Hornady 3715)
2 ) One of my 1990s handloads of fresh .35 Whelen brass, run through RCBS dies and trimmed to proper length, stuffed with Hornady 3715
3 ) Original DWM 531
4 ) Fired case of #2

Picked up 300 of them when they went on sale a few weeks ago, knowing that the future for getting more Woodleigh is uncertain. I only have about 50 pieces of brass to play with, so that's the long pole in that tent. Really hoping @RAVEN ROCKS PRECISION can make the SHM order come through. Should have picked up a bunch of them when I was in Germany.

 

[SaintPanzer]

I have used 4895 with satisfactory results, no complaints.

Understanding a burn rate chart is not something to trust, I notice 4895 is much closer to VV N130, which seems like an awful fast burn. What's your load? When I ran the numbers in QuickLoad, it looked like I'd get a mostly full case with N150 or N160, and between 90 and 100% burn in a carbine length barrel, without over-pressure.

I'd like to learn more.