THE SWAMP FROM THE AIR
We’d been hunting pretty damn hard for 13 straight days, so Bredger asked me if we’d like to take the morning off and get a better look at Coutada 11 from the air. Based on our trip from Beira on the way in, the answer was a resounding “hell yea!” The truth of the matter was, he could tell that the heat and sun were beginning to its toll on us and he figured we needed a rest – he was not wrong! The MOZ heat, sun and the wind can just sap it out of you and when you combine that with late nights, early mornings and long stalks every day, well, your batteries start to run down after a while. I could feel myself dragging a bit and even Ian was not immune to the elements, as he had a little less bounce in his step as well. Consequently, the chopper ride was a welcome respite and was very much appreciated. Bredger arranged for Pete to take us out the next morning at a quarter past seven, so we got to sleep in on this particular day. As I indicated before, Pete was a wealth of knowledge and we were excited to spend the morning with him, getting a bird’s eye view of the delta. We had already seen the sand forests on the west side, so we decided we would concentrate on the flood plain and go deep into the swamp. We had the good fortune to be accompanied that day by Wildlife Geneticist Dr. Caitlin C., on assignment from the San Diego Zoo. She had been with us in camp since Day 1 and had been taking part in all of the lion research with Willem and his team. She was an absolutely delightful young lady, and we were glad to share the chopper with her. In addition, she had a pretty bad ass camera with a huge telephoto lens, so we knew were going to get some good shots that she would share with us. Ian and Cailtin were in the back seat, and I rode shotgun with Pete. There wasn’t a bad seat in the house though, as both sides were open to the elements with unobstructed views.
We lifted off into the wind with great anticipation, as Pete whirled the big bird around and started following the main road east down towards the swamp. I never get tired of riding in a chopper and feel just like a kid every time I do it. Much was familiar as we headed east. We had been down this exact same road numerous times over the prior 13 days, and I was already beginning to anticipate the next landmark. It always amazes me how totally different everything looks from the air, as if everything is in slow motion. Such was the case as Pete broke off the main road and charted a course over the flood plain for the emerald, green swamp on the horizon. I have mentioned many times before about the diversity and sheer magnitude of wildlife on Coutada 11, but you can’t even begin to fully appreciate it until you see it from the air – it is simply mind boggling! If I didn’t know any better, I might have thought we were on the Serengeti plains filming a National Geographic special. The entire flight, Ian and I had our iPhones out and alternated between video and pics, while Caitlin was clicking away with her big 35mm camera. There were herds everywhere as we crossed the floodplain; I’m talking big herds of waterbuck, zebra, hartebeest and eland with impala, sable, warthogs and reedbuck scattered amongst them – and we hadn’t even made it to the swamp yet. We could only guess what awaited us but would soon find out.
Pilot extraordinaire, Pete
Ian soaking it in
Miss Caitlin
Zebra close-up
After marveling at the sheer numbers of animals across the flood plain, we started making our way into the swamp and headed past the camp with big palms where the BV’s were stationed. The beginning of the swamp looks almost like the flood plain, except it is joined by a series of interconnecting waterways. These were the same waterways we had crossed in the BV’s and ultimately forded on foot in pursuit of the swamp buffalo. Some of the open areas were at least a square mile in size, but you would ultimately come to that next waterway and this pattern would continue to repeat itself. We still saw significant herds of animals (mostly waterbuck and zebra) but had yet to see any buffalo. We were making our way towards the deep swamp, which ultimately became apparent was a sea of papyrus and palms from one end of the horizon to the other. The solid ground became much smaller pieces of real estate, and we were starting to see much larger bodies of water. About the time I was wondering where all the buffalo were, Pete made a hard pitch to our left and said, “there they are!” What at first appeared to be just specks on the horizon was in fact a small herd of buffalo. We were soon on top of them and made one single pass before setting course for a group that was now at our 2 o’clock. This second herd was much larger than the first and I’m guessing there were maybe 250 or so scattered about. Pete was very deliberate in his approaches and never did more than one pass to avoid spooking animals, to the extent that you can actually avoid that in a helicopter. We were now seeing herds everywhere on the horizon and apparently had found the “garden spot” for these big bovines. They were anywhere from a half mile to a mile apart but obviously concentrated in this one area. After repeating the process on one more herd, Pete changed direction and indicated we would go look for elephants.
The waterways
Buff on horizon
Swamp buff
More buff
Along the way we found a hippo out in the open and it was almost comical to watch this huge animal make tracks for the safety of his waterhole. I have to admit, as awkward as he looked, that old boy could cover some ground, and I can now see why they are so formidable on open ground with the indigenous population. It wasn’t long before we hit a pretty sizeable body of water with a significant pod of hippos. I had commented to Pete that you would have a captive audience of hippos to hunt if you could ever make it out that far in the BV, but he proceeded to show me all the escape routes the hippos had in the channels leading away from the main body of water back into the papyrus. He indicated once they got in there, they were gone – ok, so much for that game plan. Another five minutes later and Pete banked hard again, this time to give us a good look at a couple of big crocs sunning on a muddy embankment. The larger of the two hit the water immediately, but the second one hung around long enough for me to snap a pic or two. As we pulled away, Pete indicated the first one was about as big a croc as you will ever see on the delta. He was noticeably larger than the one that stuck around, and I asked him how big? He said he was probably pushing 15 feet! I was glad we had done our helicopter ride AFTER we had traipsed through the swamp on our buffalo hunt – it was unnerving enough as it was at the time, but that would have taken it to a whole new level!
Hippo out in the open
On the run
The hippo pod
The "small" croc
It wasn’t long after that when we found what we were looking for – elephants. It was a group of three babies along with their mothers, who immediately went into protection mode and put them in the middle of the herd as the chopper made one half circle overhead. We didn’t want to put too much pressure on them, so left just as quickly as we had come. It was cool to watch their maternal instincts kick in and see how they banded together almost like a group of circus elephants, with their babies in protective custody. It was hard for me to comprehend what these elephants were doing way out in the middle of nowhere in the swamp. I was always under the impression they fed almost entirely on hardwoods, but there was obviously something out there they liked, or could at least sustain themselves on. If it was palms or papyrus, they had that in abundance.
The Mother brigade
Circle the wagons
The ride in was much like the ride out and we started seeing more herd animals as we got back to solid ground. We were crossing one such opening when Pete muttered, “lion kill” before swooping down for a closer look with a touch and go. It was a young waterbuck that had been partially eaten, but the lions were nowhere in sight and the vultures had already moved in for their share – such is life on the delta. A short time later we saw an eland bull all by his lonesome, which seemed odd given that was the first solitary eland we had seen the entire trip. The remainder of the flight back to Mungari Camp was spent just soaking in the beauty of Coutada 11, as the sun was now kissing every corner of the delta. Caitlin, Ian and I all knew we had witnessed something special and how lucky we were to share this experience together. You couldn’t wipe the smiles from our faces, as we exited the chopper and began recounting what each of us had seen from our own perspective. It was a day I won’t soon forget and I was so glad I had the opportunity to share it with Ian. I can only hope
that Africa is still around for his children and grandchildren to enjoy – God willing, along with men like Mark Haldane and all the hunters across Africa that contribute so much to conservation, we still have a fighting chance!
The waterbuck kill
Mr. Eland
Morning glory - the delta at its best
Coming back to the landing from strip
Next up: OUR LAST 36 HOURS ON THE DELTA