404 Jeffery Lee Crimp Die - Want To Buy Or Even Rent

Razorback

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Lee has stopped custom die production at the moment and I really need a Lee factory crimp die in 404 for an upcoming hunt. Will pay a premium or even rent it anyone is agreeable.
 
Lee told me the same thing. Wish I could help, but I am in the same position. My Redding .404 dies do a roll crimp and I do not like that crimp on the .404.
 
I’m using North Fork 380 grain bullets and there’s no crimping grove high enough for a roll crimp. I could trim the brass back considerably but don’t want to have to do that.
 
Lee has stopped custom die production at the moment and I really need a Lee factory crimp die in 404 for an upcoming hunt. Will pay a premium or even rent it anyone is agreeable.
I’ve got a smith that said he uses a Lee crimp die in 416 Rem Mag for crimping 404 cartridges.
 
@Razorback I have a Lee crimp die for a 404 Jeffery. I'll let you use it, just cover the postage and return it in a timely fashion. Send me a PM with you mailing and contact info.
 
That is an extremely generous offer and I appreciate it very much. I’ll send you a pm.
 
I’ve goa smith that said he uses a Lee crimp die in 416 Rem Mag for crimping 404 cartridges.
Unfortunately it won't work. I think the only other FCD that might work would be the 416 Rigby. The 404J and 416 Rigby are too fat to fit into the 416 Rem FCD die. A custom oversize FCD for either the 404J of the 416 Rigby might work for the 416 Rem though.
 
Unfortunately it won't work. I think the only other FCD that might work would be the 416 Rigby. The 404J and 416 Rigby are too fat to fit into the 416 Rem FCD die. A custom oversize FCD for either the 404J of the 416 Rigby might work for the 416 Rem though.
Gotcha - that makes sense.
 
I'm wondering if a crimp die isn't available, if as an option using one of those cannelure rollers designed for bullets could be used to push in the edge of the case giving it a crimp?
 
A Hornady seating die will also do a crip if it is adjusted properly.
 
The neck of the .404J is vulnerable. I spent a bunch of time getting my Redding die adjusted properly, and a bunch time more FL re-sizing the failures. I will order a .404J FCD as soon as Lee starts taking orders for custom projects. I have a couple FCDs in other calibers and it is a piece of cake to get a nice, even crimp.
 
I’ve done a roll crimp with my Redding die using 400 grain Barnes TSX bullets. They have a crimping grove just proximal to the ogive that’s in perfect position. North forks don’t have a grove in the right spot. It’s my understanding that the Lee FCD is the only one that will effectively crimp without a corresponding groove.
 
Kind of works depending how thick or hard the jacket is. It won't work on a copper/brass monolithic at all. Attempting to roll crimp on a smooth shanked bullet without a groove, will likely only loosen the neck tension. The Lee FCD, used very lightly, can dig the case mouth edge into the bullet's shank a little thus creating a small crimp groove in the process. If the jacket is thick or tough, probably won't work or do much.
 
The .404 J has a long neck about 1-1/3 caliber. It might provide enough neck tension without being crimped, but a good crimp is security against bullet movement in the magazine under recoil and an aid to consistent ignition.

The cannelure on the 400 gr Woodleigh RN SN is in exactly to correct position so that the bullet base does not protrude down into the powder space and the length is within spec. The 400 gr. Barnes X bullet is a lot longer and the cannelure is .80" from the base, which about .25" into the powder space. .. about 3.78" COAL if seated out so that the base is seated forward and the powder space is not reduced. The newer Barnes TSX type bullets have driving bands that can double as cannelures, I expect. But I'll stck with the Woodleighs.
 
I agree that the beautiful long neck on the 404 probably provides enough tension by itself but I just wouldn’t feel right about not crimping a dangerous game round.
 
I need a Lee Crimp die in 404J also please, but will wait my turn.
Mean time I found next option for 375 and up.. was seat the bullet first to exact length/position. Then remove the centre plug seat thingo, and do the normal die (roll) crimp gently, as a separate step.

Also leaving the die not locked down, I can mark ideal position with a marker, but tweek it teeny bits in out to get the crimp looking nice.
 
Trick I use setting up dies to roll crimp in two steps and keeping the die set up (assuming brass is trimmed to uniform length etc.) Using a dummy round, back the seater plug way out and set the die to crimp in the usual way. Lock the locking ring in position. Take the die out and put a spacer in between the die and press i.e. a few flat washers or extra locking ring. Screw the die back in tightly against the spacer and set your seating plug to the desired depth and lock in place.
Now you don’t have to mess with the locking ring and seating depth every time.
 

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