Rebuilding The Bosses On A Buffalo

[buck wild]

Rebuilding the bosses on a buffalo

I will continue my series on the handling of horned animals after coming through the dip and pack process ie unnatural finish. I readily admit I’m a bit of a nut about wanting my animals to resemble their natural state as much as possible during their preservation. I’m also a bit neurotic about preventing any future bug infestation, which would be devastating for my collection of over 75+ mounts.

GOAL- To rebuild the loss edges of the bosses, create a natural horn for display and bug proof as much as feasible.

Although some of the products I use are taxidermy specific, I will also try to list everyday products for the DIY out there that wants to follow along.

First, there are two types of horns we receive from Africa, those that slip their cores and those that don’t. It’s this second category that is of greatest concern to me as they are naturally “dirtier” inside the horn sheaths. Since they do not come off, any meat, membrane, tissue remains inside. A bug magnet! The usual suspects are impala, any of the wildebeest and buffalo. Although I might take an extreme approach to de-bugging than most, I know of at least one guy that is even more extreme than me and I must admit he has influenced my approach over the years. I do not find his methods practical, but I enjoy his paranoia.

So let’s get going. Let’s describe these non-removable horns in more detail. There is basically a honeycomb core that grows inside the horn sheath. The horn sheath themselves are similar to our hair and fingernails. A harden material of carotin. Horns grow from the bases out, in contrast to antlers that grow from the tips out. What we want to accomplish is getting inside that core and treating whatever organic material remains.

USE LAXTEX GLOVES FOR ALL PHASES!!

Step One- Take very hot water and Dawn detergent using a stiff bristle brush and scrub the exterior of the horns and any section you can reach in the crack between horn and core. I’m wanting to break down any residual grease or oils left from the boiling process. Rinse with clean water.

Step Two- Use a 3/8” drill bit and drill one hole, maybe even two if the horns are larger, through the horn on the backside or non show side of the horns. Just drill deep enough to get into the core (white material). Don’t drill all the way through. First hole fairly close to the base of the horns and the second no further than half down the horns. The last 1/3 of the horn will be solid with no core material thus no need to go this far and it defeats the next steps. This will allow for our “treatment fluids” in the next couple of steps to get all the way through the cores.

 

[buck wild]

Step Three- Take household, medicinal hydrogen peroxide and pour it between the horn and cores. Pour as much as needed until you see it running out the furthest hole in the horn. I plug the top hole with my finger to ensure it all doesn’t run out the first hole. Swirl the horns around trying to get the fluid in all areas. It might surprise you to see bubbling action happening. Killing bacteria can’t be a bad thing.

 

[buck wild]

OPTIONAL STEP- When dealing with all horned skulls, whether they are slipped or not, I use a solution of 1 cup of household bleach to 5 gallons of water. I soak the horns in this solution for 8 hrs. I know- freak out right? I wouldn’t have believed it myself until I started doing it. When you remove the horns, lightly rub them with a clean cloth. I light “slime” will come off. I assume this to be oil and grease from the boiling process but whatever it is, it wipes off leaving a beautiful horn. I use a kiddie blow up pool for this and can multiplate the shape of the pool to reduce the amount of water/bleach I need to cover the horns if I’m doing say a whole safari together. Now rinse with fresh, clean water and allow horns to dry for several hours before putting them back on the skull cores. DO NOT FORGET to put back on or you risk the horns shrinking a tad making them harder to seat back to the cores correctly. You might already be experiencing this from the boiling during Dip and Pack. DISCLAIMER- For the project I’m about to outline, I did not go through this process because of the size of the horns.

Step Four- If horns are slipped, I rub the inside of the horns with Borax (a powder laundry detergent that also kills bugs- go figure). I will also hand rub borax onto the cores. I cover how I attach the horns to the cores in my other series.
Reconditioning Horns https://www.africahunting.com/threads/re-conditioning-horns.60328/

If the horns don’t slip, as in this project, I make a solution of borax and water until the water will no longer absorb the borax. I use the now empty peroxide squirt bottle to squirt this solution between the horn and core similar to our earlier treatment. I let the horns dry for at least several days to ensure all liquid has dried before moving on.

Step 5- I use masking tape and plastic wrap to mask off the horns for the next step. I have a 4” plastic roll on a handle-you might could use saran or similar wrap. This is to prevent any foam from the next step getting on the horn. I pour powdered Borax into the crack between the horn and core. I invert horns and let excess run back out. This is my last attempt at treating the cores and preventing any future bug issues. I’m not sure what other taxidermist do, but I’m pretty sure very few go through all these steps. Again, I might have been overly influenced by my paranoid buddy.

 

[buck wild]

Step 6- I have a two part, A-B expanding foam as part of doing taxidermy, you might use that expanding foam in a can for this. I mix the foam and pour between the horns and core trying to get a little everywhere. I want the foam to seal off the crack and permeate the cores. Be careful to also tape over your drilled holes in case in gets that far down. That would be ideal, but it doesn’t always happen. Be careful with this stuff as it expands and adding too much can cause multiple issues. If you haven’t worked with it before, I’d caution to error not using enough the first try vs using too much. As the foam begins to expand beyond the edge of the horn, I use plastic wrap to stop its spread and mold it into a nice rounded contour. Again, for this buff, I’m sitting up repairing/replacing the lost horn bosses. Even “hard boss” bulls will lose horn material at the edges. Between the boiling and the natural transition between skin and horn, there is always something to rebuild. This particular buff will be a euro. I’m not overly concerned with getting it exact as it will not need to match up to the skin as it would with a mount.

 

[buck wild]

Step Seven- After the foam has cured and hardened, I remove the plastic wrap and tape. I use a rasp, but sandpaper would work also to clean up and shape the foam to match the lost horn edges.

Step Eight- Next, we will be creating the final, hardened exterior of the rebuilt horn. By this time we have treated the inside core as best we could. We have completely sealed off the inside with expanding foam. If these are going to be mounted, I don’t worry much about any getting on the skull in areas I don’t want. If a euro, you might consider masking off the skull in areas you don’t want “horn”. I use Bondo, resin and a fine sawdust for this next step. These items should be available at your local hardware or automotive store sans maybe the sawdust. I’m using it as a filler and thickener. You can just as easily use a teaspoon of acrylic DAP latex caulk (it won’t work with the 100% silicone stuff) mixed with your bondo during this step. It will make the mixture a peanut butter consistency and easy to mold with your hands. Here is another step where having experience working with the material helps, but it’s not mandatory. I happen to have blue bondo hardener that will create a grey finish making blending colors later easier but red is fine also. Again, if your first time, maybe try a sample first to get a feel for how fast it sets up. The warmer, more humid environment, the quicker it kicks. The colder, the longer it takes, Adjusting the catalyst can be a little tricky. I mix the Bondo, a dap of fiberglass resin (optional) and a spoonful of sawdust (sub acrylic caulk) with the blue cream. Mix well. I use a butter knife to spread a ¼” thick layer over the foam and shape it. I will feather a small area onto the real horn. Don’t get carried away here. I only attempt the front half of the horns at a time. Then do the backside afterward with another batch. As the bondo begins to gel, I use the knife to create waves or similar to making tips on cake frosting. We are beginning the texture phase of the finished horn. It doesn’t need to be prefect but get some texture started here. As the bondo gels, it will firm up. There is a special spot where its firm but not rock hard where you can trim with a knife or “flick” off a drop that landed someone you didn’t want it to.

PLUG YOUR HOLES IN THE BACK. I use a two part taxidermy putty. You can use your bondo mixture and sand flat once hard.

 

[buck wild]

Step Nine- The bondo has cured now- maybe 10-20 minutes. It’s hard but not 24 hr hard. Use your sandpaper or rasp to clean up any excess on the horns. After perhaps an hour, I use a wire wheel in my drill to texture the bondo more. Work the wire wheel along the horn edge vs from skull to horn. I’m not sure how to explain but kind of like sanding with the grain. Start lightly and you’ll see the texture you are getting. This area of the horn will have more texture than the tips. Look at your pictures from the field. It just needs to be close anyway right? Now do your backside. I don’t spend much time texturing back here for two reasons. One, it usually isn’t as rough as the top side and second, not going to see it anyway.

 

[buck wild]

Step Ten- We need to get the bondo to be close in color to our horn. I have specialty taxidermy paints and stains I use. If a DIY, I have found the cheap water-based poster paints to work well. They are forgiving, easily obtainable, dry “flat” and easy clean up. Black, white, and brown will be all you need. Mix them to get a match- use different shades etc. Perhaps wood stain would also be an option. I’d probably go light walnut or dark oak. Pick based on your CURRENT horn color. If Euro Skull, again make sure the skull is masked off. Play with your colors, use a sponge, stiff paint brush, let it dry some, wipe with a cloth. You’ll see it starting to develop some depth and high lights. Doesn’t need to be a perfect color match …. yet.

 

[buck wild]

Step Eleven- Dang this is a lot of work. But we are almost finished… kind of. Here is where I use the beeswax method I previously covered in my first series that was posted in earlier steps, For this project I color my melted raw beeswax with a dap of black temper paint to create a light grey color. Consult your field pictures. Maybe yours needs a more brown basecoat etc. Using a 4” stiff paint brush, a apply the melted wax over the horns. Just get it on with a light coat. No need to get a perfect application as it will be melted into the horn in next step. Lighter is better than heavier here, You can always add more if needed but you’ve burn up several rags if you need to remove too much later.

 

[buck wild]

Step Twelve- Use a paint stripper gun on low setting or hairdryer on high, to melt the wax. Start at the high point and begin melting down the horn. Use the stiff brush to “paint” the melted wax over the horns and into the deep cervices. Melt, dry, melt dry, you’ll get the hang of it. Remove any access with a rag. If way too heavy, use a wood popsile stick etc to scrap the semi melted wax off. Melt again until a fine layer remains. At this point the horns will be sealed with a light shine. Heck, some folks might even decide this is where they will finish. Seems dark, shiny African horns are liked by some

 

[buck wild]

Step Thirteen- Here I use my sifted dirt. It makes a very fine powder. I rub it into the horn. The wax will hold some of it. I continue to layer and rub as needed. I also have dry powder clays in various colors – grey, brown, red that I will mix and add to get more color depth. After I’m happy with my dirt, I will spray horns with a Matte sealer. I might add more dirt if needed when matte is still tacky.

You are done !! I started and stopped at various stages on this project, but estimate it took approximately 2.5 in total work time. If you were doing multiple horns, you’d save time for getting materials together. I’m experienced in doing this thus I expect it to take longer your first attempt.

 

[buck wild]

I have one more step but just realized I don't have the pictures handy. I'll get some in a couple hours. I ended up lightening up my final color some more by adding another layer of my grey dirt and matte spray.

 

[Hunt anything]

This is fascinating to me, I’ve been a taxidermy junkie since I walked into my grandfathers shack in Virginia and his collection of waterfowl, fish and Native American artifacts back in the late sixties. keep em coming!

 

[buck wild]

Looks like I missed after the foam expanded and hardened pics this was step right before bondo. Step Seven

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Maybe a little edit from @BRICKBURN to get them in the right place as I’m locked out of that post already

 

[MarkB]

@buck wild you rock. I really like your tutorials, detailed, understandable and entertaining, oh yes also great educational, learning and confirming for a budding taxidermist like me. We also have the same thoughts on what mounts should look like, = exactly as when they were harvested and live. I cringe at shiny black shoe polish painted Africa game mounted horns.

This is great timing as I patiently wait for my 22 animals inbound from last summer, some will be a first and will need more research time than mounting time I am sure. We only do a few Africa so do not have your vast knowledge and experience.

For our local species, sheep, goat, bison, deer, elk we have taken many thick rubber casts from parts of horns, antlers, burs and noses, we mostly use 2 part epoxy and texture with the rubber casts for those that require buildup/repair. I wonder if same would work on Africa horns for those that mount lots?

Using the foam to fill horn/sheath gap is new to me, we use thinned bondo. Must say I use foam but am not a fan except when doing form work. Don't get any on your pants, shoes, animal hide, or hair what a nightmare it becomes.

Thanks again for the education and enjoyment.

Mark B

 

[buck wild]

Thanks @MarkB. I use the expanding foam as I'm trying to fill everything inside that horn that I can when I work with the ones that don't slip off the cores. Although a buff skull and horns are heavy in and of themselves, I'm not sure I'd want to add much more additional weight by filling the void completely with bondo.
And I'm not claiming this to be the RIGHT way, just my way. I'm hoping maybe a few others chiming in and I'll learn something new in this thread.

 

[MarkB]

Thanks @MarkB. I use the expanding foam as I'm trying to fill everything inside that horn that I can when I work with the ones that don't slip off the cores. Although a buff skull and horns are heavy in and of themselves, I'm not sure I'd want to add much more additional weight by filling the void completely with bondo.
And I'm not claiming this to be the RIGHT way, just my way. I'm hoping maybe a few others chiming in and I'll learn something new in this thread.

Good clarification, my idea is the best way is the right way. Yours works and looks great. I admit my buff mounts are "heavy" more so with bondo weight than just the skull and bosses. I am sure bondo never made its way down all the space between, so not as good as foam. Lets hope I get another buff opportunity to try your foam method. Do have a black wilderbeast inbound so practice I will get. Not sure about reedbuck, waterbuck.

Mark

 

[buck wild]

Good clarification, my idea is the best way is the right way. Yours works and looks great. I admit my buff mounts are "heavy" more so with bondo weight than just the skull and bosses. I am sure bondo never made its way down all the space between, so not as good as foam. Lets hope I get another buff opportunity to try your foam method. Do have a black wilderbeast inbound so practice I will get. Not sure about reedbuck, waterbuck.

Mark

I don't foam the smaller animals and definitely not those horns that slip as I can treat those better with the horns slipped.

 

[VertigoBE]

Thanks a lot for sharing @buck wild ! Not something I will likely try to DIY myself, but very interesting to read how it is done. I didn't know there was so much involved for a simple Euro mount!

 

[buck wild]

I decided to give my euro i more rustic feel and used a propane torch to burn the seam lines and other areas. I sealed with a coating of Mop N Glo.

 

[Anbessa Gedai]

Good clarification, my idea is the best way is the right way. Yours works and looks great. I admit my buff mounts are "heavy" more so with bondo weight than just the skull and bosses. I am sure bondo never made its way down all the space between, so not as good as foam. Lets hope I get another buff opportunity to try your foam method. Do have a black wilderbeast inbound so practice I will get. Not sure about reedbuck, waterbuck.

Mark

Unless they are of some "non-typical configuration" reedbuck and waterbuck horns will slip off the bone cores, which as previously stated allows for good clean-up & sterilization and no need for sealing around the horn bases when they are re-installed.