What to do with a 1917

[Humphrey_Ploughjogger]

I have a 1917 Enfield, I won off gunbroker a while back. It was made in 1918, stock cut back, missing front sight and front sight protectors, but rear sight and ears are present. It’s rough, finish is largely worn/patinaed, maybe even pitted a place or two. It would make a good knock around gun with the front sight perhaps, but my dilemma is that the barrel is practically smooth bore, with rifling barely visible. Originally thought barrel might be fouled, but I think it is genuinely that worn. Can’t decide whether to re-barrel in .30-06 from the CMP, go for a larger caliber barrel, or have the existing barrel re-chambered larger.

 

[skydiver386]

The condition of the bolt locking lugs, and their seats in the receiver are a critical factor, but it's hard for most of us to tell until the barrel is taken off.

If these are in good shape, I'd build a large caliber Dangerous Game rifle on the receiver. Those are as strong and stout as you'll find, and they'll stand up to the biggest calibers.

The bolt face and extractor will need to be opened up, but most competent rifle smiths know how to do it.

Anything from a .458 Lott to a 505 Gibbs and larger has been built on the 1914/1917.

 

[Humphrey_Ploughjogger]

I think if I did that, I would want to do it up in a Remington model 30 style, which would mean lopping off that rear set of “ears”. I kind of hate to do that with this one, since they are a little more rare with the sight protectors though the final product you describe would be a very neat piece to have.

 

[RedTag]

.35 Whelen is your answer. New barrel and maybe a new stock too. Mine is built on a WW2 era 03/A3. These old .30-06 battle rifles, with barrels worn out and stocks warped or cracked, have great actions to build from and transform into a .35 Whelen that is both affordable and practical.

 

[1972RedNeck]

I have a 1917 Enfield, I won off gunbroker a while back. It was made in 1918, stock cut back, missing front sight and front sight protectors, but rear sight and ears are present. It’s rough, finish is largely worn/patinaed, maybe even pitted a place or two. It would make a good knock around gun with the front sight perhaps, but my dilemma is that the barrel is practically smooth bore, with rifling barely visible. Originally thought barrel might be fouled, but I think it is genuinely that worn. Can’t decide whether to re-barrel in .30-06 from the CMP, go for a larger caliber barrel, or have the existing barrel re-chambered larger.

458 Lott would be my choice if the action is sound...

 

[AZDAVE]

If you want to keep it in the military kinda issue look rebarrel into 30/06.

If not, pull the barrel, use the stock for a nice fire, and rebuild into a custom you have always wanted.

 

[skydiver386]

I have a bare 1917 action sitting in my gun safe and I can take a picture to show you what to look for with the locking lug seats, etc. Might not get to it till Friday though.

 

[Flewis]

I have them in 3006,300wby, 416wby, had a 460wby, 2 505s and last but not least 585 Nyati. They seem to work fine.

 

[Humphrey_Ploughjogger]

I have a bare 1917 action sitting in my gun safe and I can take a picture to show you what to look for with the locking lug seats, etc. Might not get to it till Friday though.

That would be great, thanks. That would give me an idea of what this one might be a candidate for.

 

[Flipper Dude]

404 Jeffery

 

[Humphrey_Ploughjogger]

404 Jeffery

View attachment 703642

View attachment 703643

That is a beautiful rifle.

 

[skydiver386]

THIS is what I'm talkin about. Who did the wood on this rifle?

404 Jeffery

View attachment 703642

View attachment 703643

 

[Hunter-Habib]

My proposition- Rebarrel it to .500 Jeffery. Get yourself a Douglas Premium barrel. They make the best big bore rifle barrels, in my humble opinion.

 

[Flipper Dude]

THIS is what I'm talkin about. Who did the wood on this rifle?

Dennis Olsen

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

I vote for the 404 Jeffery
Gumpy

 

[skydiver386]

This is the view into the front of the receiver of my 1917. Firing pin in the center of the bolt, extractor on the left, ejector slot on the right of the picture, and of course our left and right locking lugs.

This next picture is with the bolt handle turned down, and the locking lugs in their locked position ready for firing. The claw extractor remains in its place, but the left locking lug has rotated to be on top, the right locking lug has rotated down.

This last picture is with the bolt retracted to it's rearmost position in the receiver. The raceway slots for the left and right locking lug are clearly visible. The two slightly shiny spots are where the lugs turn into their locking shoulders or seats. If these areas have a divit or dished appearance to them, it is a sure indication that the locking lugs have been beaten backwards into their shoulders, and the rifle will not properly headspace. Installing a new barrel will not fix this.

This receiver is in great shape and there is very little indication of headspace issues.

There are other important things while we discuss locking bolt lugs, and their shoulders in the receiver. The backside of each locking lug should always be lubricated with a high quality gun grease to prevent wear between the lugs and their seats. If these surfaces wear, headspace (the distance from the bolt face/rear of the cartridge, to the datum line on the shoulder of the cartridge) can open up enough that cases split, and a dangerous condition exists that can wreck the gun, and of course injure the shooter.