MarkB
AH elite
Camp #6
Its not a long drive and we make it to Kirkwood late afternoon. Ian pulls up into a paved courtyard, manicured grounds, we meet the greeter and are shown inside to our individual rooms, I am at the end of a long walk and have inside and outside showers, massive bed, massive bathroom and my own private pool. Hitgehein Lodge overlooks town of Kirkwood and has great views if you want city lights and highway road noise while on safari. I am starting to think WTH as this is supper fancy and NOT the Africa we wanted. After a short while we are escorted to the bar area, as we approach I hear a familiar sound, its the US hunters and their PH’s, a repeat of the Kalahari as some are loud due to vast consumption of alcohol. Sisters and I are saying same thing, what is this? We are not happy and I start to simmer. I voice concern to Ian who states he has no idea and Francois will arrive from his home shortly. Some time later Francois arrives, this is where I loose my cool, I should have been more diplomatic and pulled Francois aside but I did not. I asked him at the table what the hell is this place, he gave me some excuse saying he thought we would like the rest of our safari to be in this fancy waited on place in a sort of joking way and ended with he did not know we wanted rough Africa. Immediately the US hunters chimed in with their opinion and how they love the place, white gloved waiters and free all you can drink booze. This only heated an already hot Canadian, Francois fully understood the sort of experience we wanted from our communications before I booked hunt, earlier comments confirmed this when he asked about Stephs, Hannes and Neil's places and I stated these were exactly as expected and what we wanted on a SA safari. The funeral home also confirmed because when I asked him why he put us there he stated their website stated wild Africa, hence reason he booked us there. So he was fully aware of our desires and I could not understand his reasoning why he booked us in this place or the utter denial at the table. Other than it would be extremely easy on him, pick us up in am, hunt, drop off in pm and go home? I firmly told him tonight is our last night here so find another place that fits what we want. He said he would and left for his home. Shortly after we were directed to the dinning room.
Supper was fabulous, my sister asked, why is there 6 forks, 5 knives, 4 spoons, 4 glasses and so much on table. We did not go on safari to enjoy fine dining and eat raised meat. A couple of the other hunters fully enjoyed them selves, one even had a quick snooze at table during supper, while the others ribbed/poked at him. All confirming my “I don’t want/like sharing a camp” reasoning. Around 9 pm it felt like I was back in the Navy and sailors were misbehaving in a foreign country, except I was paying and on safari. The Canadians left this shortly after as we wanted to hunt tomorrow, perhaps not from truck.
Next morning Francois arrives, states he has us a real Africa wild place to stay till end of safari. We will go on a morning hunt then move camp. We drive a short distance to Umlilos property, primary species is nyala but kudu is also on list, we go thru the gate and drive so wind is right. All out we walk/stalk some bulldozed cut lines, we see a few and stalk close on a pr of bulls but Francois says we can do better. The baboons are pissed we are there and bark constantly warning every thing within earshot. After a couple hrs without seeing shooters we drive around a lake and citrus piles looking. The sever drought over the last few years is immediately noticed, compared to all other areas we have hunted one could say game is scarce here and if not dead near dead. Nothing is spotted so we head back to ritzy camp.
We pack our rooms and load up, drive a short distance, go thru a DG fence and climb a narrow washed out track passing buffalo and some starving PG. We get up high and come to a camp that has been closed for 2 years due to Covid, its owned by a relative of Umlilo. We have our own chalets, with en suites and a large dinning, bar and kitchen area. Typical African decor with mounts. Problem is there is no water, heat, electricity, cleaning done, and no staff. J&J say, “you embarrassed Francois and he is clearly pissed off, god help us where he puts us now”. We needed flashlights to follow the reflectors to find our way from fire area to rooms. Francois called in the “maintenance” guy and a day later hot water and electricity were all sorted out. No staff remained on site so Francois had his wife along with staff from home make extra meals and bring out. Ian was not happy as he had to stay out there with us, he went from drinking with his US buddies in a fancy camp and home each night to cooking over a fire and enjoying nightly conversation with Canadians. He was not happy and told us on many occasions. I assumed those tasks fall under job description of a PH, they have in all other countries on Safari? PH complaining?? Never heard of it before?
What started as what I think Francois trying to “show us”, hoping we would ask to go back into town, ended with the Canadians in the perfect for us place. The lion “farm” down the trail (same one spoken too in another Umlilo report) few km away provided us with roaring mornings and nights, even if not wild, the buffalo in camp were outstanding, monkeys, bats in my shower, cold beds until body warms them, fire cooked game meat, walking to bed with your flashlight and the real camping on Safari experience was amazing, as close to real Africa we could get. Us Canadians loved our camp.
Awesome camp, flashlight walks each night to bed.
Inside decor,= awesome for us.
It would have been better if we went there first and had no need for my meltdown. Also felt sorry for Francois wife as she did daily runs with food, laundry and back and forth to look after us. A camp maintenance person along with a cook organized early and things would have been perfect. Now back on hunt.
We drop our gear at new camp, grab the cooler box and lunch from Francois home and we are off. We climb a steep hill and park truck, seats, cooler box out and a picnic lunch under some trees with a commanding view of lake 400 yds away, citrus pile and valley. After lunch Francois goes to “phone clients” shortly after he leaves 4 kudu bulls walk past about 100 yds away. I go get Francois, wake up, 4 kudu bulls just passed close and are headed down to lake. When we get back they are way down in the valley bottom, they do not go to lake but go into thorns beside lake. We make a play, we all slide down hill and position behind a berm expecting them to come out, So we wait, Francois go’s to “call clients” then we wait. 3 hrs later and still no kudu, Francois returns and we stalk into the thorns, passing dead animal carcasses as we go, wow there not 100 yds is the biggest of the group, he is bedded. Stix up and I am ready, we wait and wait, then he gets up presents broadside, bang slap and he runs, but only 30 yds and he is down. As we approach it is obvious he is starving, and very old with no teeth, not a big cape kudu trophy but one hunted and old. I shot kudu in Namibia that had rabies and looked very sick, this poor guy was the same, starving and suffering, a faster ending was better. In a year he will provide me those great memories and I will relive them every time I look up and see him in my memory room. Posse, photos and load on truck then off to skinning shed.
Starved kudu. Sad but my trophy.
Back at camp we unpack, organize stuff and get treated to Ian on the braai cooking game steaks and BS ing around the fire until its time for bed.
We are hunting Umlilo’s property in Kirkwood and they have had a sever drought for past 4 years. Feeding citrus only works somewhat, there is no grass, shrubs, bushes or trees with any foliage. As we walk, stalk and drive around the place is literally littered with 100’s of dead carcasses of many species. I am also unsure why we did not stay or ever go near Umlilo's lodge on the property. When asked Francois stated it was not at international hunter standards? But it is in the 2022 promotional video this year? As I stated in the beginning Francois called before I left Canada and stated we would change last camp as he did not want us to see and hunt his property. This I agreed to, I do not know what happened or why we changed back. Clearly game was thinned, spooky and I have never seen so many animals on deaths door. To the point of us saying in truck, “today is her last day” as we drove passed obviously walking dead starved animals. This was sad and disheartening. What was weird was driving 30 km over the hill into next valley and the grass was green, lush and animals fat and normal. Crazy how one valley over gets annual water yet Kirkwood has had none.
Next morning we are off to new side of Umlilo property, we drive around and place truck on high vantage, we see nyala but again not shooters, then some black spring buck walk out below, I have a couple culls on list so of Francois and I go, stalk is almost straight down, into thorns, then there they are, ask for range, 100 yds, on stix, bang, smack, and down. Ram is a short cull, but we still have a photo parade.
Hilltop perch.
Cull black springbuck, notice parched land.
On our way to a new property we drop ram at skinning shed, then drive about 45 mins to a new area. Road in is in bottom of a steep valley with high hills on both sides and game every where. Even get to see axis deer. We drive for awhile then a truck approaches, a quick BS session in Africans and current Intel on nyala is gained. We turn around, drive a side trail to a waterhole where a blind is situated. Francois tells us that was the owners son and he said that 3 shooter nyala have been using this waterhole daily. All 4 of us get in the blind, yes its small, we are cramped, does smell like cologne, we then do a shuffle as Francois wants me on left side with rest and better shooting hole. We eat a great cooler lunch, get quiet, only whispers and settle in, not long afterwards Francois is snoring. Then holly shite, I am looking out peak hole and wow, Francois wake up quietly, I want to shoot that dam nice nyala 60 yds in front of blind”? From his slumber he says yes he is a shooter, bang, smack and he runs. That happened so fast, we wait the longest 15 mins and all squeeze out of blind. Walking to where he stood its not hard to see the blood and his tracks. They enter the thorns, all 5 of us start the trail, just inside bush line we find a massive tortoise, of course its pic time as we all have to it pick up. Then back to track, tracker already has nyala dead 50 ft away. He is awesome, perfect color, shape and size. I am very happy. Pics and on truck. Back to skinning shed and camp.
A trophy I have waited a long time for.
We again have a great supper at camp then its load up for some night critter hunting. Francois told me porcupine were always seen and we would like one, also duiker, genet and jackals. I am handed Francois suppressed 22 mag to use, then we drive to same property we were on in AM, I meet a new PH and light man, another member on this site, @ChrisT. Immediately we hit it off and as with other night hunts Chris has clearly done this before, as we drive eye’s and animals are identified as wrong species. After a few hrs we are climbing a rutted hill when on left a male duiker dashes out and stands, Francois says shoot him, bang, bang and he is down. Immediately I see that he is an impressive old male with bigger horns than I ever imagined as a cull. Pics and its decided we will head to skinning shed then home ending our night hunt. 3 big game animals in a day, never done that in Canada. No porcupines or genets spotted.
My "cull" duiker.
More later, we are nearing the end of our amazing safari.
MB
Its not a long drive and we make it to Kirkwood late afternoon. Ian pulls up into a paved courtyard, manicured grounds, we meet the greeter and are shown inside to our individual rooms, I am at the end of a long walk and have inside and outside showers, massive bed, massive bathroom and my own private pool. Hitgehein Lodge overlooks town of Kirkwood and has great views if you want city lights and highway road noise while on safari. I am starting to think WTH as this is supper fancy and NOT the Africa we wanted. After a short while we are escorted to the bar area, as we approach I hear a familiar sound, its the US hunters and their PH’s, a repeat of the Kalahari as some are loud due to vast consumption of alcohol. Sisters and I are saying same thing, what is this? We are not happy and I start to simmer. I voice concern to Ian who states he has no idea and Francois will arrive from his home shortly. Some time later Francois arrives, this is where I loose my cool, I should have been more diplomatic and pulled Francois aside but I did not. I asked him at the table what the hell is this place, he gave me some excuse saying he thought we would like the rest of our safari to be in this fancy waited on place in a sort of joking way and ended with he did not know we wanted rough Africa. Immediately the US hunters chimed in with their opinion and how they love the place, white gloved waiters and free all you can drink booze. This only heated an already hot Canadian, Francois fully understood the sort of experience we wanted from our communications before I booked hunt, earlier comments confirmed this when he asked about Stephs, Hannes and Neil's places and I stated these were exactly as expected and what we wanted on a SA safari. The funeral home also confirmed because when I asked him why he put us there he stated their website stated wild Africa, hence reason he booked us there. So he was fully aware of our desires and I could not understand his reasoning why he booked us in this place or the utter denial at the table. Other than it would be extremely easy on him, pick us up in am, hunt, drop off in pm and go home? I firmly told him tonight is our last night here so find another place that fits what we want. He said he would and left for his home. Shortly after we were directed to the dinning room.
Supper was fabulous, my sister asked, why is there 6 forks, 5 knives, 4 spoons, 4 glasses and so much on table. We did not go on safari to enjoy fine dining and eat raised meat. A couple of the other hunters fully enjoyed them selves, one even had a quick snooze at table during supper, while the others ribbed/poked at him. All confirming my “I don’t want/like sharing a camp” reasoning. Around 9 pm it felt like I was back in the Navy and sailors were misbehaving in a foreign country, except I was paying and on safari. The Canadians left this shortly after as we wanted to hunt tomorrow, perhaps not from truck.
Next morning Francois arrives, states he has us a real Africa wild place to stay till end of safari. We will go on a morning hunt then move camp. We drive a short distance to Umlilos property, primary species is nyala but kudu is also on list, we go thru the gate and drive so wind is right. All out we walk/stalk some bulldozed cut lines, we see a few and stalk close on a pr of bulls but Francois says we can do better. The baboons are pissed we are there and bark constantly warning every thing within earshot. After a couple hrs without seeing shooters we drive around a lake and citrus piles looking. The sever drought over the last few years is immediately noticed, compared to all other areas we have hunted one could say game is scarce here and if not dead near dead. Nothing is spotted so we head back to ritzy camp.
We pack our rooms and load up, drive a short distance, go thru a DG fence and climb a narrow washed out track passing buffalo and some starving PG. We get up high and come to a camp that has been closed for 2 years due to Covid, its owned by a relative of Umlilo. We have our own chalets, with en suites and a large dinning, bar and kitchen area. Typical African decor with mounts. Problem is there is no water, heat, electricity, cleaning done, and no staff. J&J say, “you embarrassed Francois and he is clearly pissed off, god help us where he puts us now”. We needed flashlights to follow the reflectors to find our way from fire area to rooms. Francois called in the “maintenance” guy and a day later hot water and electricity were all sorted out. No staff remained on site so Francois had his wife along with staff from home make extra meals and bring out. Ian was not happy as he had to stay out there with us, he went from drinking with his US buddies in a fancy camp and home each night to cooking over a fire and enjoying nightly conversation with Canadians. He was not happy and told us on many occasions. I assumed those tasks fall under job description of a PH, they have in all other countries on Safari? PH complaining?? Never heard of it before?
What started as what I think Francois trying to “show us”, hoping we would ask to go back into town, ended with the Canadians in the perfect for us place. The lion “farm” down the trail (same one spoken too in another Umlilo report) few km away provided us with roaring mornings and nights, even if not wild, the buffalo in camp were outstanding, monkeys, bats in my shower, cold beds until body warms them, fire cooked game meat, walking to bed with your flashlight and the real camping on Safari experience was amazing, as close to real Africa we could get. Us Canadians loved our camp.
Awesome camp, flashlight walks each night to bed.
Inside decor,= awesome for us.
It would have been better if we went there first and had no need for my meltdown. Also felt sorry for Francois wife as she did daily runs with food, laundry and back and forth to look after us. A camp maintenance person along with a cook organized early and things would have been perfect. Now back on hunt.
We drop our gear at new camp, grab the cooler box and lunch from Francois home and we are off. We climb a steep hill and park truck, seats, cooler box out and a picnic lunch under some trees with a commanding view of lake 400 yds away, citrus pile and valley. After lunch Francois goes to “phone clients” shortly after he leaves 4 kudu bulls walk past about 100 yds away. I go get Francois, wake up, 4 kudu bulls just passed close and are headed down to lake. When we get back they are way down in the valley bottom, they do not go to lake but go into thorns beside lake. We make a play, we all slide down hill and position behind a berm expecting them to come out, So we wait, Francois go’s to “call clients” then we wait. 3 hrs later and still no kudu, Francois returns and we stalk into the thorns, passing dead animal carcasses as we go, wow there not 100 yds is the biggest of the group, he is bedded. Stix up and I am ready, we wait and wait, then he gets up presents broadside, bang slap and he runs, but only 30 yds and he is down. As we approach it is obvious he is starving, and very old with no teeth, not a big cape kudu trophy but one hunted and old. I shot kudu in Namibia that had rabies and looked very sick, this poor guy was the same, starving and suffering, a faster ending was better. In a year he will provide me those great memories and I will relive them every time I look up and see him in my memory room. Posse, photos and load on truck then off to skinning shed.
Starved kudu. Sad but my trophy.
Back at camp we unpack, organize stuff and get treated to Ian on the braai cooking game steaks and BS ing around the fire until its time for bed.
We are hunting Umlilo’s property in Kirkwood and they have had a sever drought for past 4 years. Feeding citrus only works somewhat, there is no grass, shrubs, bushes or trees with any foliage. As we walk, stalk and drive around the place is literally littered with 100’s of dead carcasses of many species. I am also unsure why we did not stay or ever go near Umlilo's lodge on the property. When asked Francois stated it was not at international hunter standards? But it is in the 2022 promotional video this year? As I stated in the beginning Francois called before I left Canada and stated we would change last camp as he did not want us to see and hunt his property. This I agreed to, I do not know what happened or why we changed back. Clearly game was thinned, spooky and I have never seen so many animals on deaths door. To the point of us saying in truck, “today is her last day” as we drove passed obviously walking dead starved animals. This was sad and disheartening. What was weird was driving 30 km over the hill into next valley and the grass was green, lush and animals fat and normal. Crazy how one valley over gets annual water yet Kirkwood has had none.
Next morning we are off to new side of Umlilo property, we drive around and place truck on high vantage, we see nyala but again not shooters, then some black spring buck walk out below, I have a couple culls on list so of Francois and I go, stalk is almost straight down, into thorns, then there they are, ask for range, 100 yds, on stix, bang, smack, and down. Ram is a short cull, but we still have a photo parade.
Hilltop perch.
Cull black springbuck, notice parched land.
On our way to a new property we drop ram at skinning shed, then drive about 45 mins to a new area. Road in is in bottom of a steep valley with high hills on both sides and game every where. Even get to see axis deer. We drive for awhile then a truck approaches, a quick BS session in Africans and current Intel on nyala is gained. We turn around, drive a side trail to a waterhole where a blind is situated. Francois tells us that was the owners son and he said that 3 shooter nyala have been using this waterhole daily. All 4 of us get in the blind, yes its small, we are cramped, does smell like cologne, we then do a shuffle as Francois wants me on left side with rest and better shooting hole. We eat a great cooler lunch, get quiet, only whispers and settle in, not long afterwards Francois is snoring. Then holly shite, I am looking out peak hole and wow, Francois wake up quietly, I want to shoot that dam nice nyala 60 yds in front of blind”? From his slumber he says yes he is a shooter, bang, smack and he runs. That happened so fast, we wait the longest 15 mins and all squeeze out of blind. Walking to where he stood its not hard to see the blood and his tracks. They enter the thorns, all 5 of us start the trail, just inside bush line we find a massive tortoise, of course its pic time as we all have to it pick up. Then back to track, tracker already has nyala dead 50 ft away. He is awesome, perfect color, shape and size. I am very happy. Pics and on truck. Back to skinning shed and camp.
A trophy I have waited a long time for.
We again have a great supper at camp then its load up for some night critter hunting. Francois told me porcupine were always seen and we would like one, also duiker, genet and jackals. I am handed Francois suppressed 22 mag to use, then we drive to same property we were on in AM, I meet a new PH and light man, another member on this site, @ChrisT. Immediately we hit it off and as with other night hunts Chris has clearly done this before, as we drive eye’s and animals are identified as wrong species. After a few hrs we are climbing a rutted hill when on left a male duiker dashes out and stands, Francois says shoot him, bang, bang and he is down. Immediately I see that he is an impressive old male with bigger horns than I ever imagined as a cull. Pics and its decided we will head to skinning shed then home ending our night hunt. 3 big game animals in a day, never done that in Canada. No porcupines or genets spotted.
My "cull" duiker.
More later, we are nearing the end of our amazing safari.
MB
