All that BS crowing about 20" barrels "loose too much velocity" - 99 out of 100 Fudds screaming about this could not tell you the amount of trajectory difference between 20" and 22" or 24" anyway. For the vast majority, they can't shoot well enough to ever tell the difference. It won't make a difference until you are out at 400 yds and beyond. If you are shooting at game at that distance you would be using a precision set-up. For my personal hunting ethics, that is not very much hunting and a lot towards sniping. YMMV.
Another point most youngsters ( I am a card carrying curmudgeon) forget is that one carries the rifle (stateside) 99% of the time and fire it 1% of the time. The extra 2-4" of barrel does not help you carry the rifle better. The older i get the heavier gear gets.
My Ruger Alaskan in .375 Ruger reached out on a Blesbuck at a lazered 253 yards just fine. The 20" barrel made absolutely no difference as I had the laser cut turret for my load from Leupold. The PH christened my rifle "Stubby" because every other .375 he had seen had the 24" barrel to wring all that energy out of the magnum H&H. Twice I surprised the PH with my rifle handling ability - 20" barrels are fast and easy to snake through the brush. Seems I had enough energy left with my puny, short barrel - giraffe (3,000 lbs.), zebra stallion, oryx, blue wildebeest, kudu, impala, blesbuck, a pair of baboons - they all fell quite nicely. All other shots besides the blesbuck & one baboon (200 yards) were 100 yards and under. MAYBE in the western US you might need to shoot across a canyon at elk or deer, but my 2 "long shots" of 200+ were spot on with the laser cut elevation cap.
If you don't have a cut elevation cap, you can go really old school - go to a range with your load and determine your come-ups for every 50 yards and tape a 3"x5" card to the stock.
I have never missed an extra 4" of steel hanging on the front of my Alaskans (I have a brace of them).