Ring around the top of the bullet

[Maskell Shotgun academy]

Hornady offers bullet specific seating stems. If they don’t make one for your bullet you can send them one and they’ll make it for you at not too bad a cost.

I only have Hornady dies for the 404, but I will look into to it, thanks so much
Mike

 

[MS 9x56]

I would think they are all made the same

Have you ever heard of tolerances and tool wear? They may be made the same but not all are the same.

 

[Ray B]

The simple/cheap way, although you need to readjust it due to increased lengthening is to unscrew the stem, hold the part that contacts the bullet upright. Then take a candle and drip some wax into the seating hollow. While the wax is hot take a toothpick or some such and spread the wax out to the edge of the part that contacts the bullet. Put the die back together and screw it into the press but leave it a quarter inch from full contact. Load a cartridge and using repeated times of pushing the cartridge into the die, each time turning the die a little farther into the press until the desired OAL is reached. then adjust the split-ring on the die so that is the point where it is installed.

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

I might have to try this, I do have bedding compound

I should add, don’t do this in the die as you could glue it altogether. When set it will need the edges cleaned up so it will fit back into the die. It’s also not a permanent fix as the epoxy will eventually breakdown , but it will take a while, I’ve got one there that must have loaded over 1000 rounds
Gumpy

 

[1dirthawker]

hmmm,

does not affect the bullet trajectory or performance, so....i don't worry about it.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

hmmm,

does not affect the bullet trajectory or performance, so....i don't worry about it.

I agree.

 

[Ridgewalker]

If it bothers you, I’d contact RCBS and Forster and ask them if they could help. It may cost some, but I’d think they would be more than willing.
Best of luck!

 

[Maskell Shotgun academy]

The simple/cheap way, although you need to readjust it due to increased lengthening is to unscrew the stem, hold the part that contacts the bullet upright. Then take a candle and drip some wax into the seating hollow. While the wax is hot take a toothpick or some such and spread the wax out to the edge of the part that contacts the bullet. Put the die back together and screw it into the press but leave it a quarter inch from full contact. Load a cartridge and using repeated times of pushing the cartridge into the die, each time turning the die a little farther into the press until the desired OAL is reached. then adjust the split-ring on the die so that is the point where it is installed.

thanks so much for your advice

 

[AZDAVE]

On the calibers you mentioned most all the seating dies are designed for the old round nose style bullets. Just contact your dies company and get one designed for spitzer style bullets.

 

[Maskell Shotgun academy]

On the calibers you mentioned most all the seating dies are designed for the old round nose style bullets. Just contact your dies company and get one designed for spitzer style bullets.

I didn’t know that was available. I would give them a call tomorrow thanks so much.

 

[fourfive8]

Common and cosmetic… as has been posted. But if you are worried about it, remove seater plug (if your die design allows it) and chuck in hand drill. Wrap a small piece of 200-400 grit wet/dry sandpaper around bullet ogive. Hold in place with fingers. Run drill while putting light pressure of bullet ogive pressed into seater plug. That should remove the sharp machined edge that is causing ring. I’m sure the die manufacturer customer reps responding to this have rolled their eyes more than once over this exact question.

 

[Maskell Shotgun academy]

Common and cosmetic… as has been posted. But if you are worried about it, remove seater plug (if your die design allows it) and chuck in hand drill. Wrap a small piece of 200-400 grit wet/dry sandpaper around bullet ogive. Hold in place with fingers. Run drill while putting light pressure of bullet ogive pressed into seater plug. That should remove the sharp machined edge that is causing ring. I’m sure the die manufacturer customer reps responding to this have rolled their eyes more than once over this exact question.

You’re probably right, but I got lots of ideas to try
Thanks for the response

 

[Hififile324]

1.) Make a dummy round with a firm crimp. Also label so it does not go into the field.
2.) Remove the seating stem from the die.
3.) Chuck it up in a bench mounted drill, lathe, or drill press.
4.) Put coarse Jewlers rouge on your dummy round bullet
5.) Spin your seating stem & simultaneously move the nose of your bullet into the seating stem and polish it

The bullet material is "softer" than the die, and will come off. But the goal here is to have the rouge and friction do the polish job. When you get your technique down you can polish it mirror bright.

 

[Maskell Shotgun academy]

1.) Make a dummy round with a firm crimp. Also label so it does not go into the field.
2.) Remove the seating stem from the die.
3.) Chuck it up in a bench mounted drill, lathe, or drill press.
4.) Put coarse Jewlers rouge on your dummy round bullet
5.) Spin your seating stem & simultaneously move the nose of your bullet into the seating stem and polish it

The bullet material is "softer" than the die, and will come off. But the goal here is to have the rouge and friction do the polish job. When you get your technique down you can polish it mirror bright.

Thanks for your advice

 

[buffybr]

I've corrected that problem on a couple of bullet seating stems by radiusing the mouth of the stem with a Dremel tool.

Using an inside case de-burring tool would also fix it, but the steel seating stem would be hard on the sharpness of the de-burring tool. A countersink drill bit in an electric drill would also work.

 

[Maskell Shotgun academy]

I've corrected that problem on a couple of bullet seating stems by radiusing the mouth of the stem with a Dremel tool.

Using an inside case de-burring tool would also fix it, but the steel seating stem would be hard on the sharpness of the de-burring tool. A countersink drill bit in an electric drill would also work.

Thanks so much for your advice

 

[fourfive8]

To ensure maintaining concentricity of the seating plug contact surface, turn (spin) the seating plug and hold “tool” against it. Not the other way around. That rule holds true for any similar machine/turning project- turn the workpiece, not the tool

 

[Maskell Shotgun academy]

To ensure maintaining concentricity of the seating plug contact surface, turn (spin) the seating plug and hold “tool” against it. Not the other way around. That rule holds true for any similar machine/turning project- turn the workpiece, not the tool

My drill won’t hold it anyway, but I know a guy