return to zero with throw lever bases

62flint

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Just curious, never have tried my self, But what is every ones experiance with removing and reinstalling a scope on a rifle with QD mounts. I am thinking of getting another scope with talley throw levers for my 375H&H.
have a 1-6x and a 2-10/12x ready to go.
I am cautious of the swapping scopes,barrels etc stuff and being confident they are good to go. (blaser comes to mind )
 
Talleys are reasonably repeatable. May need a little tweaking but often are good to go. I would suggest that you should ALWAYS confirm them so swapping back and forth is fine as long as they are confirmed.......the animal deserves the confirmation for sure. Even most Tactical style picatinny rings do well as long as you push them forward in the cross slot.
 
Just curious, never have tried my self, But what is every ones experiance with removing and reinstalling a scope on a rifle with QD mounts. I am thinking of getting another scope with talley throw levers for my 375H&H.
have a 1-6x and a 2-10/12x ready to go.
I am cautious of the swapping scopes,barrels etc stuff and being confident they are good to go. (blaser comes to mind )
I have a Leupold QD mount on my .458. I never take the scope off after checking the zero (just in case) but the zero seems to hold after removing the scope and then replacing it. I was thinking about setting up another scope to take as back-up, but I never have done it.
 
I have talley qd on my .375 wby and frequently switch back and forth from a dg scope to a plains game scope. They are extremely repeatable and I have not experienced any issues with them. I would highly recommend them
 
Talleys are reasonably repeatable. May need a little tweaking but often are good to go. I would suggest that you should ALWAYS confirm them so swapping back and forth is fine as long as they are confirmed.......the animal deserves the confirmation for sure. Even most Tactical style picatinny rings do well as long as you push them forward in the cross slot.

Very Important! I have heard of people pulling talleys rearward and also one forward and one rearward.


In my experience Talleys in custom bases (so any hole variations are mitigated) are very good.
 
Two weeks ago I pulled the QD scopes from my 404 Jeffery and 30-06 to zero the iron sights (I changed the beads on both rifles and the front sight ramp for 404). When I finished with the irons, I stepped over to the 100 meter range and reattached the scopes to recheck their zero. Used an old glow-hole target and patched it up. Impacts on those targets are easily visible from 100 meters with 9x on the 30-06 (left the spotting scope home as irons were only sighted for 50 yards). Saved me walking downrange after every shot.
Resized_20240824_160004.jpeg

Top hole is 30-06. The other hole is the 404. Warne QD rings hold zero!
 
I have used Alaskan Arms and Leupold. Both were very good. Only used them on Dangerous Game rifles sighted at 100yds. Took both off several times and put them back on. Within an inch or less from zero so easily good to 200yds.
 
I have used Warne and Talley qd rings.

I like them both.I’ve seen really good results with Talley on my 416 and 375.

I have Talley on a Steyr in 9.3, they work well but on that particular rifle, Warne bases are lower profile and your iron sights are more visible.

So it’s not a bad idea to try different systems on your rifle to see which one works the best with your sights.
 
I use Leupold QRs fast on fast off and no missing parts
 
My experience with Talleys mirrors the others; no significant difference. You will be checking zero upon arrival prior to hunting, providing the opportunity to make adjustments should any be needed.
 
Thanks everyone, I am thinking on my next Africa trip to take my low power scope for dangerous game and have another higher power scope with me for back up or plains game.
Wasn’t planning on swapping scopes and not rechecking zero.
But it would be nice to have 2 scopes for the rifle.
I am actually thinking of using the stronger scope on my 375 for North American elk and bear.
 
Just curious, never have tried my self, But what is every ones experiance with removing and reinstalling a scope on a rifle with QD mounts. I am thinking of getting another scope with talley throw levers for my 375H&H.
have a 1-6x and a 2-10/12x ready to go.
I am cautious of the swapping scopes,barrels etc stuff and being confident they are good to go. (blaser comes to mind )
@62flint I have QD mount on my Chapuis .470 NE and they worked very well - returned to zero everytime. However, the accuracy expectation and range on any double rifle .470, ,500 etc.. may not be as precise as what is expected in smaller calibers and ranges over 100 yrds. I think the quality of your QD installation and the rings/levers used will also be important in the results you get. Ask others on this forum with more experience and using QD on different rifles.
 
Thanks everyone, I am thinking on my next Africa trip to take my low power scope for dangerous game and have another higher power scope with me for back up or plains game.
Wasn’t planning on swapping scopes and not rechecking zero.
But it would be nice to have 2 scopes for the rifle.
I am actually thinking of using the stronger scope on my 375 for North American elk and bear.
@62flint: one additional question - are you looking to have the option of using your .375 with open sights AND a scope? I chose a QD so that my .470NE could be used with and withOUT a scope. For your .375 there might be one variable power scope that would fit all your needs ie: 2-10? I have a fixed power 1.75-6 power on my .375 and very comfortable shooting big game 20 yards out to 200 yards. The durability and magnification range on good scopes today might eliminate the need for “two scopes”. Others might have better insight to add.
 
Two weeks ago I pulled the QD scopes from my 404 Jeffery and 30-06 to zero the iron sights (I changed the beads on both rifles and the front sight ramp for 404). When I finished with the irons, I stepped over to the 100 meter range and reattached the scopes to recheck their zero. Used an old glow-hole target and patched it up. Impacts on those targets are easily visible from 100 meters with 9x on the 30-06 (left the spotting scope home as irons were only sighted for 50 yards). Saved me walking downrange after every shot.
View attachment 632480
Top hole is 30-06. The other hole is the 404. Warne QD rings hold zero!
Keep the groves on the rifle clean when changing back and forth. I had issues with dust/dirt once in Zim on my CZ.
 
every ones experiance with removing and reinstalling a scope on a rifle with QD mounts.
All my mounts are QD various types, and keep zero after reinstalling on same rifle.
 
@62flint: one additional question - are you looking to have the option of using your .375 with open sights AND a scope? I chose a QD so that my .470NE could be used with and withOUT a scope. For your .375 there might be one variable power scope that would fit all your needs ie: 2-10? I have a fixed power 1.75-6 power on my .375 and very comfortable shooting big game 20 yards out to 200 yards. The durability and magnification range on good scopes today might eliminate the need for “two scopes”. Others might have better insight to add.
The advantage of two scopes for a rifle that can double as dangerous game and plains game is it eliminates the need to rezero the scope when changing loads. Right now I'm working up 307 gr loads for my 404J. Scope is presently set for 400 gr at 50-100 yards. 307 gr should reach out 200-250 yards but different brand/design bullets of different weight pushed by different powders at very different velocities are certain to hit the target very differently. I suspect the difference will be more than just elevation.

Not sure why I'm doing this. I cannot envisage myself returning to Africa for plains game without my dad's 30-06 Springfield 03A3. But I suppose it might be nice while hunting buffalo with the 404 to have the option of changing ammo and scope so I could reach out for a special waterbuck or kudu if the opportunity presented itself. Or maybe I will decide 307 gr Hammer bullets are sufficient to kill buffalo and just stick with one scope. My experience killing buffalo with 375 seems to confirm 300 gr in modern bullet design is adequate. Or maybe I'm just tinkering for the hell of it. :D
 
Keep the groves on the rifle clean when changing back and forth. I had issues with dust/dirt once in Zim on my CZ.
Talley work well. As stated push them forward against the front stop.
The one drawback to Warne (and presumably other QD rings that fit pic-rail/Weaver bases) is the slop in the slots of bases/rails. Unless the base is mounted in perfect parallel alignment with the bore (pretty much an impossibility), the scope can lose zero if the rings aren't reattached exactly in the same spots in the base slots. It seems I have discovered by accident a cure. When I changed to a 30mm scope on my 404, the semi pic-rail for the 1" scope it was replacing seemed a bit high. I dug out an old discontinued Weaver 1-piece base to give it a try. Dropped the scope down where I wanted it but I was having trouble locking the scope rings to base. Then I noticed the base had round bottom slots. It was made for standard Weaver "detachable" (permanent) rings with round locking screws. I was essentially trying to fit a square peg into a round hole. So I used a grinding wheel on my Dremel tool to round the square edges of the locking bars of Warne QD rings. Now the scope rings fit very tightly into their respective slots in the base. No wiggle room! Why Warne hasn't taken care of this issue with their bases is a mystery. It's an easy fix.

As far as dust and dirt getting in the slots and changing zero: I suppose that could indeed be an issue. However, for the range a dangerous game rifle would used I can't imagine dirt in the slots would alter zero enough to make a huge difference. For plains game one would probably opt to leave the scope attached in most scenarios ... unless it was malfunctioning. In which case it won't be reattached.
 
I used Warne rings that indexed directly off the notch on my CZ550 375H&H. Took it off after every range session while I ran a brush and patches down the bore. Always returned to zero.
 

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