Quick Release Bases for Sporterized M1903

[Googleplex]

I have a previously sporterized 1903 (high number 1918 manufacture) that I’m doing a 9.3x62 build on. I want an unobtrusive and solid quick release scope mount that will give excellent usage of the irons when I remove the scope and will return to zero when the scope is put back on. Talley seems to be the name of the game with these mounts, but I don’t see one on their site for a 1903. Does anyone know of and recommend a comparable option that will fit a 1903?

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I have a previously sporterized 1903 (high number 1918 manufacture) that I’m doing a 9.3x62 build on. I want an unobtrusive and solid quick release scope mount that will give excellent usage of the irons when I remove the scope and will return to zero when the scope is put back on. Talley seems to be the name of the game with these mounts, but I don’t see one on their site for a 1903. Does anyone know of and recommend a comparable option that will fit a 1903?

This is my 03A3. I used an aftermarket rail with cutout for loading and ejection. The A3 employed a rear sight incorporated into a dovetail on the rear ring. Apparently there was some inconsistency in manufacture with the dovetails not all being uniform height. This resulted in me having to shim the front of two piece bases formerly on the gun or I would run out of elevation adjustment on scope. I have no problem loading this setup. Rail was needed to accommodate short tube on the Nikon 3x9. Otherwise it wouldn't mount far enough back for proper eye relief.

The rings are Warne QD and iron sights are from a 1990s Winchester Safari Express.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Note that the knob on my rifle has been cut off the end of striker. This was to accommodate the Mauser style left side aftermarket scope relief safety. Had to get rid of the knob to access safety. Be careful if you do this. The striker is actually two piece with the threaded knob being peened onto the end of the striker rod. The threads are mostly in the end of the knob. Cut it too short and there's nothing for threads on rod to screw into. Actually, if you want to go quick detach, I strongly recommend acquiring a Timney trigger with trigger block safety incorporated (their "deluxe" model). Scope relief striker safeties are sticking up in the air unprotected when scope is removed and get caught on clothing, brush, etc and accidentally disengaged. Simply keep the old military striker safety on the gun for use when scope is detached (or for cosmetics). Timney trigger block safety slides on side of receiver.

 

[Googleplex]

This is my 03A3. I used an aftermarket rail with cutout for loading and ejection. The A3 employed a rear sight incorporated into a dovetail on the rear ring. Apparently there was some inconsistency in manufacture with the dovetails not all being uniform height. This resulted in me having to shim the front of two piece bases formerly on the gun or I would run out of elevation adjustment on scope. I have no problem loading this setup. Rail was needed to accommodate short tube on the Nikon 3x9. Otherwise it wouldn't mount far enough back for proper eye relief.

The rings are Warne QD and iron sights are from a 1990s Winchester Safari Express.

View attachment 563502View attachment 563503

What make is the scope mount? I’m planning on leaving the safety as is, but the Timney suggestion is a great idea! I’ll probably do that!

 

[wvfred]

One other choice is a G&H side mount.They look good on a springfield rifle.A bit pricey but very well made.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Here it is. If your rifle has already been tapped for a scope, you would be real lucky if the forward two holes in this rail match the placement of forward pair of holes on your rifle's receiver. The rear hole in the rail will match the hole through the dovetail for Springfield's military rear iron sight. You may be have to redrill one or both holes on front end of rail. I believe this company also makes a 1903 rail with no holes drilled through it. I drilled one new hole in the front end of my rail to match one of the holes already tapped in my rifle's receiver by my dad in 1962. The other hole in the front ring of receiver was too close to an existing hole in the rail. Redrilling the rail at that spot would compromise its strength. I'm confident one screw front and one screw at rear of rail will provide enough support. I used a caliper and drill press to carefully locate the new hole in the rail. Unfortunately, there is no factory uniform location for the forward receiver scope mount screws. Placement of the forward pair of screw holes is pretty much at the discretion of each gunsmith. The space between the forward two screws is uniform (per Weaver specs) but the location of the pair of holes is wherever the gunsmith put them. With two-piece bases it didn't make any difference. I got lucky with the 98 Mauser I just built into 404 Jeffery. The holes drilled in the receiver matched the rail from this manufacturer. Everyone was out of stock for military 98 rail so I bought a FN commercial model rail and with some creative machining to allow clearance for the military stripper clip port, I made it work.

This company also makes aluminum rails. You don't want those if the scope is being detached and reattached frequently. Too soft. The rail will lose zero.

https://www.ccopusa.com/products/cc...rail-scope-base-for-springfield-caliber-30-06

 

[Ontario Hunter]

You may need to cut a port in the stock for the Timney trigger block safety. Or maybe not. The stock I bought for my Mauser was factory cut for the Timney deluxe trigger with safety. However, I chose to install a 3-position Model 70 style safety so I had to fill the trigger block cutout in the stock. 3-position safety is nice addition but quite pricey for Springfield. Gentry is the only one making them now ... in the neighborhood of $500! If you decide to go that route, you can still find on eBay the old style standard Timney trigger for Springfield without trigger block safety lever.

This is the Mauser I built into 404 Jeffery. Similar rail and Warne QD rings. Photo is metal still in the white. It's on its way back from bluing guy as I write this. Watch for a photo of completed project.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

In case you might want a peep style iron sight, New England Custom Gun makes a nifty quick detach peep or ghost ring rear sight that locks onto this rail. Take the scope off, dig the peep sight out of your pack, put the scope in the pack, attach the peep sight, and you're ready for rough country, bad weather, and/or fast shooting.

Something to keep in mind: If you plan to use the scoped gun for dangerous game, a very low power scope is most desirable for quick acquisition at close range. However, low power scope will pick up iron sights mounted on the barrel. It's why I chose the Winchester Safari Express iron sights. The rear leaf folds down flat out of the way when not in use.

 

[jnmullins]

I also have a sporterized 1903 and the scope mounting options for it are limited compared to an 03A3, as you've probably noticed. I have seen the CCOP mounts and they have one for Leupold rings, but I can't find much information about the quality and my concern is that they are low quality Chinese imports. I went with an EGW (Evolution Gun Works) 0 MOA Picatinny/Weaver rail mount since they make one specifically for a 1903. If your rifle already has holed drilled, I think EGW makes a mount without predrilled holes. The only other option I could find is the undrilled Talley mounts, which would require fitting and drilling for screws.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I also have a sporterized 1903 and the scope mounting options for it are limited compared to an 03A3, as you've probably noticed. I have seen the CCOP mounts and they have one for Leupold rings, but I can't find much information about the quality and my concern is that they are low quality Chinese imports. I went with an EGW (Evolution Gun Works) 0 MOA Picatinny/Weaver rail mount since they make one specifically for a 1903. If your rifle already has holed drilled, I think EGW makes a mount without predrilled holes. The only other option I could find is the undrilled Talley mounts, which would require fitting and drilling for screws.

My CCOP rails are both satisfactory. Appear to be good steel. The finish is flat black. Since both guns were getting blued I sent the rails along to get blued too. They are supplied with good quality torque head screws. I modified both my rails. Had to drill one front mounting screw in my Springfield rail. The Mauser rail I shortened and beveled ends for cosmetics. Had I known the screw holes weren't going to line up with my Springfield's receiver, I would have ordered a CCOP rail without holes. They make them but perhaps only aluminum? Aluminum is definitely not desirable for quick detach rings.

 

[Googleplex]

I also have a sporterized 1903 and the scope mounting options for it are limited compared to an 03A3, as you've probably noticed. I have seen the CCOP mounts and they have one for Leupold rings, but I can't find much information about the quality and my concern is that they are low quality Chinese imports. I went with an EGW (Evolution Gun Works) 0 MOA Picatinny/Weaver rail mount since they make one specifically for a 1903. If your rifle already has holed drilled, I think EGW makes a mount without predrilled holes. The only other option I could find is the undrilled Talley mounts, which would require fitting and drilling for screws.

I didn’t see the blank Talley bases at first, those would be a good bet, but I do also like the G&H side mount wvfred mention too. G&H is classic 1903, and it seems like a perfect solution even though it does come at a premium.


I also have a question about floor plates. I really want to find a good steel hinged floor plate, but I can’t find anything for a 1903. I did see that Mauser 98 floor plates can be made to fit. The stock I’m looking at is an unfinished stock without holes drilled, the idea is that I can have it cut to my measurements and finished out. How well well does an M98 floor plate fit in a 1903 stock, screw holes aside? Would there be gaps between the wood and metal, or would fit normally fit snug save for screws?

 

[Googleplex]

The stock it has on now isn’t bad, but it’s not what I’m going for. It has a higher Monte Carlo comb that feels a little awkward if I want to get down on irons, and is a little clunky. It is already sporterized, just in case anybody thinks I’m cutting up an unadulterated WW1 issue 1903.

 

[Googleplex]

You may need to cut a port in the stock for the Timney trigger block safety. Or maybe not. The stock I bought for my Mauser was factory cut for the Timney deluxe trigger with safety. However, I chose to install a 3-position Model 70 style safety so I had to fill the trigger block cutout in the stock. 3-position safety is nice addition but quite pricey for Springfield. Gentry is the only one making them now ... in the neighborhood of $500! If you decide to go that route, you can still find on eBay the old style standard Timney trigger for Springfield without trigger block safety lever.

This is the Mauser I built into 404 Jeffery. Similar rail and Warne QD rings. Photo is metal still in the white. It's on its way back from bluing guy as I write this. Watch for a photo of completed project.
View attachment 563552

Beautiful .404! How does it shoot?

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Beautiful .404! How does it shoot?

Let's see if I have an image on the phone (I'm in the field goose hunting). Yes. Bottom left target is 404 at 100 yards. Center target is Springfield 30-06. Not great but not too bad for a shaky old man.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I didn’t see the blank Talley bases at first, those would be a good bet, but I do also like the G&H side mount wvfred mention too. G&H is classic 1903, and it seems like a perfect solution even though it does come at a premium.


I also have a question about floor plates. I really want to find a good steel hinged floor plate, but I can’t find anything for a 1903. I did see that Mauser 98 floor plates can be made to fit. The stock I’m looking at is an unfinished stock without holes drilled, the idea is that I can have it cut to my measurements and finished out. How well well does an M98 floor plate fit in a 1903 stock, screw holes aside? Would there be gaps between the wood and metal, or would fit normally fit snug save for screws?

I also looked for an aftermarket hinged floorplate for my Springfield ... to no avail. I thought the military 1903 had machined bottom metal with hinged/detachable floorplate, similar to Mauser 98? My late WWII Springfield has stamped bottom metal with integral floor plate. As long as your rifle's extractor will snap over on shell dropped in the chamber (e.g. my rifle), I question the need for hinged floor plate. Post a picture of the bolt face with extractor claw. That will tell me if the smith did the work needed for extractor snap over.

I would be surprised if Mauser bottom metal can be made to work on any model Springfield. Never heard of that being done.