PAC-NOR Barrel Contours for 9.3x62

[Googleplex]

Hello,

I’m building a 9.3 on an old previously spirterized 1903, and I’m trying to decide on a barrel contour. I’ve read #4 or #5 contour are good bets, but not all manufacturers number their contours the same way and I’m not sure how that translates to PAC-NOR. I’m intending to send them the barreled action for them to work on. Does anyone have experience with PAC-NOR that can clarify? I’m thinking either 22 or 23 inches, and I’m wanting it balance on the front of the floor plate between the hands without being crazy light. I’d like it to be about 9 lbs all said and done. That can be including the scope. Im replacing the old sporter stock too, the new stock stock is going to made of Claro walnut. If I do a 22 inch barrel it’ll be in a mannlicher length stock, 23 it’ll be in a standard length stock. I figure with the extra wood in one and the extra inch in the other it’s a wash between the two as far as balance, and with only an inch difference there’s no real performance difference either I’m sure.

I’m an over-thinker so if I’m putting way too much thought into it feel free to say so, but given what I’ve said above what barrel contour do y’all think would be most suitable?

 

[gbflyer]

I have a pac nor barrel from before the fire. It’s a good one. I wouldn’t go any more than a #4 for your 9.3.

 

[Googleplex]

I have a pac nor barrel from before the fire. It’s a good one. I wouldn’t go any more than a #4 for your 9.3.

Being that we’re looking at a 22-23 inch bbl, would you suggest going for the #4 for the muzzle weight or would a #3 be a better bet?

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I knew nothing about tapers and twists when I ordered my Mauser 404 barrel from Lija. He suggested 14/1 twist and #5 contour (their website has specs for each # contour). The barrels are finished at 28" and cut to desired length. I had Dennis Olsen thread, ream, and cut it to "24 length. I was surprised how thick the barrel appeared once it was mounted. Although it weighs almost exactly ten pounds empty, the gun is easy to carry. I only had one sling when I went to Africa in August and only hunted buffalo every other day. Odd days I hunted plains game with my 30-06. Two days hunting buffalo I forgot to grab the sling off 06 and had to carry the 404 all day in hand. Not a problem. When hands needed a rest I carried it cradled Daniel Boone style quite comfortably. This gun balances perfectly right at the forward recoil lug.

Personally, I think 24" is the perfect length. Gives some range, provides balance, adds a bit of weight = less recoil and noise. Manlicher style stocks are pretty but I question their utility. For starters, the more wood you add under the barrel, the more places for moisture and debris to hide. Weight distribution will also be affected which will change the balance, especially in a heavy caliber rifle. I think you would have a difficult time trying to keep a big bore like that down to nine pounds with a full length stock even if you cut the barrel down. I would choose a longer barrel over longer stock. It will serve you better.

FYI I cut the knob off my 30-06 Springfield's striker. Needed to get rid of it to reach the left side aftermarket Mauser style wing safety. Cutting the knob off made for much more svelte looking rifle but be forewarned: the striker and knob are actually two pieces forged together on the knib face. Most of the thread that screws them together is in the end of the knob. Cut it off as close as possible to the knurled end. I simply locked the striker in drill press chuck and used a Dremel tool with cutoff disk to cut the knob while it was spinning in drill press. Then polished it. Reset the striker in the cut off knob with locktite.

 

[Googleplex]

I knew nothing about tapers and twists when I ordered my Mauser 404 barrel from Lija. He suggested 14/1 twist and #5 contour (their website has specs for each # contour). The barrels are finished at 28" and cut to desired length. I had Dennis Olsen thread, ream, and cut it to "24 length. I was surprised how thick the barrel appeared once it was mounted. Although it weighs almost exactly ten pounds empty, the gun is easy to carry. I only had one sling when I went to Africa in August and only hunted buffalo every other day. Odd days I hunted plains game with my 30-06. Two days hunting buffalo I forgot to grab the sling off 06 and had to carry the 404 all day in hand. Not a problem. When hands needed a rest I carried it cradled Daniel Boone style quite comfortably. This gun balances perfectly right at the forward recoil lug.
View attachment 567329
Personally, I think 24" is the perfect length. Gives some range, provides balance, adds a bit of weight = less recoil and noise. Manlicher style stocks are pretty but I question their utility. For starters, the more wood you add under the barrel, the more places for moisture and debris to hide. Weight distribution will also be affected which will change the balance, especially in a heavy caliber rifle. I think you would have a difficult time trying to keep a big bore like that down to nine pounds with a full length stock even if you cut the barrel down. I would choose a longer barrel over longer stock. It will serve you better.

FYI I cut the knob off my 30-06 Springfield's striker. Needed to get rid of it to reach the left side aftermarket Mauser style wing safety. Cutting the knob off made for much more svelte looking rifle but be forewarned: the striker and knob are actually two pieces forged together on the knib face. Most of the thread that screws them together is in the end of the knob. Cut it off as close as possible to the knurled end. I simply locked the striker in drill press chuck and used a Dremel tool with cutoff disk to cut the knob while it was spinning in drill press. Then polished it. Reset the striker in the cut off knob with locktite.
View attachment 567334

That’s good to consider, I’ve been going back and forth between two stock makers, one I like a lot but is more expensive, the other I also like and has a good reputation but isn’t quite what I initially wanted. The 2nd one is the one I am considering if I do a mannlicher stock, because that’s what I like best from their line up. What I’m leaning toward is going with the first one, but having them do a semi-inletted unfinished stock and having my own guy do the LOP, finishing, and checkering the grip. It looks like one of those old Oberndorf Mauser sporter stocks with “side-plate” bulges along the receiver and a semi-schnabel forend tip. Really pretty, really nice walnut.

My ‘03 actually already has a Mauser style safety on it, but it doesn’t go fully to 3rd position. I’m gonna keep that way, but I’m gonna put a Timney with a thumb safety in it.


What action did you use for your .404? I’ve honestly been thinking about doing one after I finish the 9.3. My dream big-bore is a .450-400 Bradshaw double, but a bolt action .404 seems more realistic for my budget.

 

[gbflyer]

Being that we’re looking at a 22-23 inch bbl, would you suggest going for the #4 for the muzzle weight or would a #3 be a better bet?

Yes a 3 would be better yet. They will tell you what the lightest contour you can go with is for the caliber if you ask.

It will do you no good to pack around the extra weight of a fat barrel. You’re going to shoot 1-2 times in succession with a hunting rifle.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

That’s good to consider, I’ve been going back and forth between two stock makers, one I like a lot but is more expensive, the other I also like and has a good reputation but isn’t quite what I initially wanted. The 2nd one is the one I am considering if I do a mannlicher stock, because that’s what I like best from their line up. What I’m leaning toward is going with the first one, but having them do a semi-inletted unfinished stock and having my own guy do the LOP, finishing, and checkering the grip. It looks like one of those old Oberndorf Mauser sporter stocks with “side-plate” bulges along the receiver and a semi-schnabel forend tip. Really pretty, really nice walnut.

My ‘03 actually already has a Mauser style safety on it, but it doesn’t go fully to 3rd position. I’m gonna keep that way, but I’m gonna put a Timney with a thumb safety in it.


What action did you use for your .404? I’ve honestly been thinking about doing one after I finish the 9.3. My dream big-bore is a .450-400 Bradshaw double, but a bolt action .404 seems more realistic for my budget.

The Springfield military flag safety is 3-position. Third position is fire. Are you perhaps confused with bolt release flag on the left side? There is no need for third position in sporting rifle and in fact my stock doesn't allow it. Tell your stock guy to not inlet for the bolt release flag to drop all the way. Ninety degrees is sufficient to release the bolt. Stock looks much better without that notch. See the above image of my 30-06. Note there is no notch for bolt release flag to drop all the way to third position.

Timney "deluxe" trigger with side safety is a good choice. Many of the striker type aftermarket safeties don't lock the bolt and can become inadvertently disengaged. I had to do significant modification to my aftermarket safety.

I built my 404 on an 8mm Czech BRNO vz.24 Mauser 98 action. Though I think the Springfield is every bit as good if not better action, finding aftermarket stuff for Mauser is easier. I bought bottom metal from Swift, added a Timney trigger, NECG magnum follower, Parkwest 3-position Model 70 style safety, aftermarket rail with loading port cutout, Warne QD rings, and a set of used like new iron sights from 90s Winchester Safari Express (ebay). Lija made the barrel and Dennis Olsen installed it (both are in Plains, MT). I did the modifications to feeding ramp, loading rails, and extractor. Swift 416 Rem Mag bottom metal magazine required no modification to handle 404 cartridges. A local machinist opened the bolt face using instructions in Duane Wiebe's booklet ($25 well spent for it!). I fit the stock (purchased online from Gunpost ad) and bedded it. The zebrawood fore end was my idea. I made it from a block of wood purchased at a local Windsor Plywood store. Added a second internal Weatherby style crossbolt inside the stock between the magazine and trigger. The project started when I purchased the action in April and gun was done except bluing in time for my trip to Africa on August 20. As expected, the feeding modifications to receiver were the most difficult aspect of the project. It was the first time I had attempted something like this. Those modifications required a ton of patience and probably a week's worth of careful work but the action cycles perfectly.

 

[Googleplex]

The Springfield military flag safety is 3-position. Third position is fire. Are you perhaps confused with bolt release flag on the left side? There is no need for third position in sporting rifle and in fact my stock doesn't allow it. Tell your stock guy to not inlet for the bolt release flag to drop all the way. Ninety degrees is sufficient to release the bolt. Stock looks much better without that notch. See the above image of my 30-06. Note there is no notch for bolt release flag to drop all the way to third position.

Timney "deluxe" trigger with side safety is a good choice. Many of the striker type aftermarket safeties don't lock the bolt and can become inadvertently disengaged. I had to do significant modification to my aftermarket safety.

I built my 404 on an 8mm Czech BRNO vz.24 Mauser 98 action. Though I think the Springfield is every bit as good if not better action, finding aftermarket stuff for Mauser is easier. I bought bottom metal from Swift, added a Timney trigger, NECG magnum follower, Parkwest 3-position Model 70 style safety, aftermarket rail with loading port cutout, Warne QD rings, and a set of used like new iron sights from 90s Winchester Safari Express (ebay). Lija made the barrel and Dennis Olsen installed it (both are in Plains, MT). I did the modifications to feeding ramp, loading rails, and extractor. Swift 416 Rem Mag bottom metal magazine required no modification to handle 404 cartridges. A local machinist opened the bolt face using instructions in Duane Wiebe's booklet ($25 well spent for it!). I fit the stock (purchased online from Gunpost ad) and bedded it. The zebrawood fore end was my idea. I made it from a block of wood purchased at a local Windsor Plywood store. Added a second internal Weatherby style crossbolt inside the stock between the magazine and trigger. The project started when I purchased the action in April and gun was done except bluing in time for my trip to Africa on August 20. As expected, the feeding modifications to receiver were the most difficult aspect of the project. It was the first time I had attempted something like this. Those modifications required a ton of patience and probably a week's worth of careful work but the action cycles perfectly.

Pictures are fuzzy, tried to get it to focus. Mauser style after market safety from Beuhler, but only two positions. It does lock the bolt, but it’s an easy safety to bump.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Pictures are fuzzy, tried to get it to focus. Mauser style after market safety from Beuhler, but only two positions. It does lock the bolt, but it’s an easy safety to bump.

Buhler was one of the better ones of that style. Actually, the best. Wish I could find one. If jiggling the bolt won't disengage your safety, I see no reason to change unless your intention is to go iron sights. The scope will protect that Buhler safety. Only 3-position scope safety for Springfield is Gentry and they are $500!

 

[AZDAVE]

I recently had them put a 9.3 #5 25 in barrel on a custom action for me. Their work was very good, and this barrel shoots extremely well. I used a bell and carlson stock and it will see time in alaska. My custom mauser in 9.3 has a nice english walnut timber.

 

[Googleplex]

I recently had them put a 9.3 #5 25 in barrel on a custom action for me. Their work was very good, and this barrel shoots extremely well. I used a bell and carlson stock and it will see time in alaska. My custom mauser in 9.3 has a nice english walnut timber.

Nice! How is the balance with that 25” No. 5?

 

[Googleplex]

Buhler was one of the better ones of that style. Actually, the best. Wish I could find one. If jiggling the bolt won't disengage your safety, I see no reason to change unless your intention is to go iron sights. The scope will protect that Buhler safety. Only 3-position scope safety for Springfield is Gentry and they are $500!

I gave it a slightly more forceful jiggle and the bolt did come open. Looks like I’m gonna need that trigger safety after all!

I saw a video of a guy with an old Holland .375, and one of the things he was really happy about was that they had both the Mauser safety and a trigger block safety very similar to what the Timney has on there. He tended to use the thumb safety above all else. Seems like a good idea all around!

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I gave it a slightly more forceful jiggle and the bolt did come open. Looks like I’m gonna need that trigger safety after all!

I saw a video of a guy with an old Holland .375, and one of the things he was really happy about was that they had both the Mauser safety and a trigger block safety very similar to what the Timney has on there. He tended to use the thumb safety above all else. Seems like a good idea all around!

Not uncommon to see Mausers with trigger block safety and military flag safety. I think the only advantage is the military safety fills the hole in the bolt shroud. Ed Wisner out in Washington makes a reasonably priced two-position striker safety kit for Springfield that pivots on the side of the bolt shroud much like Model 70. A gunsmith in Minneapolis can install it. You should check it out.

 

[AZDAVE]

It was a little muzzle heavy, I added a longer recoil pad to get my LOP correct and back weighted the stock to get the balance perfect.