Maven's are made in Japan or China depending on the model. By Light Optical Works in Japan or by someone else in China.
They are nice, but they are not on the quality of German/Austrian brands. A lot of people claim this to be the case, but it isn't a thing. Alpha glass comes with an Alpha price tag, it is one of the few absolutes in the gear world. A $6500 Gunwerks is not 10 times more accurate than a Savage M10. There will be Savage rifles that shoot as well as Gunwerks rifles all day long. The fit and finish, the way they cycle, the trigger there are a lot of factors you pay for on a Gunwerks rifle.
For optics a pair of $3000 Leica, Blaser, Swarovski or Zeiss is going to be measureable amount better in chromatic aboration, color, focus, toughness, image quality, and then there are the build asthetic things like fit, finish, case, optical lay out of controls and the quality of the components used to make it.
A $2000 high end Japanese optic from any of the vendors will be awesome, and for most things be very close in quality to the Alpha glass. But there will be areas where it faulters. There might even be an area or two where the Alpha gives up something to the high end Japanese glass, but it won't do it in every area. Top end Japanese glass is awesome! I have three rifle scopes made by L.O.W and they really punch high. But compared to my Swarovski, they leave things to be desired. At 25 or 30, I would have never beleived the difference that I see at almost 50.
On the other hand, and to answer your question.
I prefer to have a pair of binoculars separate from my range finder. I use a Leupold 1600 BRX (I think, is what it is called) and two pairs of binoculars. A pair of Swarovski El 12x50s for long range and a pair of Minox 8x56 for the forest.
I have horrible 20-450 vision in both eyes, and these have over 20mm of eye relief, so they insure no tunnelling effect when I use them.
The Leupold 1600 will range a truck at over 2400 yards, and range an animal at over 1200. Provides for inclination so I don't just get the hypotenuse distance. I actually have that turned off, so I don't have to do any math. Just dial and kill it.
I recommend a laser range finder that is set up in this way.