Kimber Stock - Wanted

[deewayne2003]

Buddy of mine is in need of a new stock….

Rifles is a Kimber Super America in .270WSM

Send me a PM if you have one or know where one is.

 

[cash_tx]

Ouch! Shame to see such a fate for such a pretty piece of timber. Good luck with the search!

 

[Ray B]

If he doesn't mind the stock being repaired, that looks like a clean break that could be repaired/reinforced so it would actually be stronger than new. Depending on how tight the fit at the break is, it could be done with little evidence of a break, except for a new grip cap to cover the hole for the reinforcement rod.

 

[SDPlinker]

That is terrible! Unfortunately I have a 84M Longmaster with the same break getting ready to do what Ray B said. No nice aftermarket applications to be found.

 

[deewayne2003]

That is terrible! Unfortunately I have a 84M Longmaster with the same break getting ready to do what Ray B said. No nice aftermarket applications to be found.

Yeah and Kimber wants $1350 for a new stock; I honestly would repair it and go bold with Selous plates.

 

[AimSmall]

I hope there's a good story about how it broke!?

How well does it match up when you 'put it back together'? Any pieces missing?

I glued/pinned a 270 some 40 years ago after horses got tangled and broke it. Hunted that rifle a lot, still going strong.

 

[SDPlinker]

Yeah and Kimber wants $1350 for a new stock; I honestly would repair it and go bold with Selous plates.

Indeed! The only aftermarket I found, was one that looked like a 1st grader made in paper mâché class, in California I believe. I was thinking of trying to pin through where the tang sits, not to have it visible?

 

[RLL]

MPI makes a kimber pattern with inlet at a reasonable price if he doesn’t mind going synthetic.

 

[agdodge4x4]

Even if it is not a clean break, as long as the wood is clean, a good polyurethane glue will repair that if clamped properly.

Personally, I would remove it from the rifle, glue it back with polyurethane glue, and if I didn't want to refinish, then I would be super careful about the edges. It foams and expands.

I'd probably refinish it and any extra pieces missing from the break, I would fill with a black or heavy contrasting epoxy to make the missing pieces pop. It's the same thing we do with mesquite or tables where wood is checked. Fill it. Accentuate it. The worst repairs to me are the ones where someone tried to make it disappear and failed. Make it clean and solid and a good battle scar. It's not unlike Japanese Kintsugi.

The other option will also require refinishing, but you can cut donor splinters of wood from inside the stock. Those can be glued into the missing areas and sanded smooth. You'll never see it since the wood is the same and it will take a stain the same as everywhere else.

 

[Taylorz1]

Ive had good success fixing wrist breaks like that using a stainless all thread rod. I figure out the angle needed to drill a pilot hole from inside the rear tang inlet (to keep it invisible) through the wrist as deep into the pistol grip as I can. I use my mill and a deep hole drill. I much prefer accraglass from Brownells over standard wood glues. Take your time and prepare the break to go together as tightly as possible. I mix in different paint pigments to the clear accraglass to match the stock color as closely as possible. I usually make up a few small test globs of different colors and let them dry to get the color right. I like surgical tubing to draw everything together tight. Do a couple dry runs. Your hole should be so snug you have to thread the rod in and I fill the hole with accraglass when I put it together to stay . The repairs are very very strong. You can actually recut damaged checkering through the accraglass. Good luck.

 

[Taylorz1]

Forgot to mention- make sure you dont glue the rod accross the hole for the rear screw. Its embarrassing when that happens

 

[dneaster3]

Ive had good success fixing wrist breaks like that using a stainless all thread rod. I figure out the angle needed to drill a pilot hole from inside the rear tang inlet (to keep it invisible) through the wrist as deep into the pistol grip as I can. I use my mill and a deep hole drill. I much prefer accraglass from Brownells over standard wood glues. Take your time and prepare the break to go together as tightly as possible. I mix in different paint pigments to the clear accraglass to match the stock color as closely as possible. I usually make up a few small test globs of different colors and let them dry to get the color right. I like surgical tubing to draw everything together tight. Do a couple dry runs. Your hole should be so snug you have to thread the rod in and I fill the hole with accraglass when I put it together to stay . The repairs are very very strong. You can actually recut damaged checkering through the accraglass. Good luck.

I’ve done this as a preventative measure in a heavy recoiling rifle. Get the right (long) drill bit and take your time setting up the angles, but it’s not a difficult job.

Good luck with the repair.
Or alternatively, purchase another Kimber with an intact stock, replace yours with the new one, then bed the new rifle action into an all-weather synthetic stock like a Bell & Carlson, McMillan, etc.
Might be cheaper than the repair job at a legitimate stock expert.

 

[19_A_CPT]

I hope there's a good story about how it broke!?

I heard they were out in the South African Serengetti plains game hunting and a Buff got after him so he hid behind a tree until the buff ran by and then jumped out and he wacked it across the forehead, knocked it out and then he bayonetted the bloat in the heart.... but that's just what i heard

 

[Bert the Turtle]

I had essentially the exact same break on my bespoke 404. With glue and a reinforcing rod (by the person who made it), it is stronger than new and imvisible.

If plan B is replace it, I’d glue that thing up, take off the cap, drill through the break, epoxy a threaded rod in place and live happily ever after. $20 and a trip to Home Depot