Just curious about it 36 cal

lee99

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A fella by the name of Hickok liked them :ROFLMAO:
He used a pair- twist draw. ;)

You’ll need slightly over-sized pure lead roundballs that are pressed into each cylinder- cuts a small ring of lead in process. Correct caps that fit snugly over nipples. Appropriate powder- IMO, Pyrodex is not. Use real BP, usually FFF granulation. Small volume powder measure for correct charge volume—- can be fashioned from trimmed pistol cartridge case.

Load appropriate charge of powder in cylinder chamber, place roundball over chamber mouth and use lever seater to press ball down onto top of powder with light compression. This should result in small ring of lead cut from ball. Ball should end up slightly below level of cylinder face. With finger, dab small amount of Cisco over ball. Place cap on nipple and fully seat it with thumb pressure. This loading is done for all chambers in cylinder except the one under the hammer if pistol is to be carried. The fit and load techniques as described above for the balls and caps is important to help prevent chain fire.

A loading cradle/stand for these pistols is very handy. Complete and proper cleaning after shooting is essential to prevent corrosion and to help ensure future reliable shooting.
 
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Pic of pistol stand I made from scrap 1”. Holds pistol in vertical position. Works for both muzzleloading and cap&ball pistols

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What’s the metal thing under the grip?
If you mean the light colored plate held by 4 screws… it’s a piece of 1/4” plywood I added to help stabilize the butt of the pistol. The red fabric is cheap felt cloth for padding. Pic of muzzleloader pistol in stand. Works equally well for holding and loading C&B revolver.

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No. In the case under the 1861 from the OP.
Who knows? Use quote function for clear comm. ;)

If pistol is in possession of original poster, might ask the original poster to take that part out of the case and post a couple of pics of the part :):)
 
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