Expensive ammo

[Elton]

Tying in to my other thread of is it worth getting a 375, i want to know if it really is so expensive to shoot it?

From calculations done this morning (yes it can differ but this is average and in South African Rand)

Factory ammo in 375 works out to between R80 and R105 per round

Factory ammo in 30-06
Between R37 and R48 per round.

So clearly a big difference. However when it comes to reloading using similar bullets as the factory round(assuming you use a case 5 times)

375 works out to R50 average
30-06 works out to R 35 average


Again i understand figures can vary, but this is general and average.

But from this its absolutely worth reloading for the 375 purely based on cost. An it brings the cost per round very close to that of a 30 06. I am stunned to also see that purely based on cost, its not truly worth reloading for the 30 06.

This whole thread is based on cost and not the other advantages of Reloading. And for the sake of being able to afford more practice with said rifle caliber.

 

[mark-hunter]

Cost is one thing, and you have calculated well.

There is also ergonomic factor;
you can shoot:

- thousands of 22lr
- hundreds of pistol ammo
- hundreds of rifle ammo up to 8mm
- And only dozens od 375 ammo.

- because if you shoot 375 in same volume as 22lr ammo in same time frame, you will have at least dislocated shoulder. This is not something to shoot all day long, unlike calibers up to 308 win.

A box of 375 per day at range is realistic. in my view.

So, even if 375 ammo is for free, you cannot shoot in same volume as other calibers you compare by price. So, getting to price, your calculation is correct, price is resonable, and it will be more reasonable with realistic expenditure which is limited.

My day at range is something like this:
50-100 - 22LR ammo
20-50 - 308 win ammo, average - 30
10-15 shots (MAX!) of 9.3x62 or 375 hh, usually less then 10.

based on this ratio, I was also doing training for african safari. (then without 375, but with available 9.3, and in the meantime got 375 as well)

For training I use the cheapest factory ammo. For real hunt, I use what I think is the best - price not important, the only thing is to re-zero the rifle. No issue for me.

 

[jbylake]

Cost is one thing, and you have calculated well.

There is also ergonomic factor;
you can shoot:

- thousands of 22lr
- hundreds of pistol ammo
- hundreds of rifle ammo up to 8mm
- And only dozens od 375 ammo.

- because if you shoot 375 in same volume as 22lr ammo in same time frame, you will have at least dislocated shoulder. This is not something to shoot all day long, unlike calibers up to 308 win.

A box of 375 per day at range is realistic. in my view.

So, even if 375 ammo is for free, you cannot shoot in same volume as other calibers you compare by price. So, getting to price, your calculation is correct, price is resonable, and it will be more reasonable with realistic expenditure which is limited.

My day at range is something like this:
50-100 - 22LR ammo
20-50 - 308 win ammo, average - 30
10-15 shots (MAX!) of 9.3x62 or 375 hh, usually less then 10.

based on this ratio, I was also doing training for african safari. (then without 375, but with available 9.3, and in the meantime got 375 as well)

For training I use the cheapest factory ammo. For real hunt, I use what I think is the best - price not important, the only thing is to re-zero the rifle. No issue for me.29

.Great way to look at it. However .375 is costing me between $80 and 100 USD plus shipping online now Just bought some Hornady DGX Bonded last night for $79 plus shipping last night.

 

[mark-hunter]

the ratio of ammo price in my case, lately:

22lr - 0.2 usd round (box 50 / 10 usd)
9x19 - 0.30 usd / round (box 50 / 15 usd)
308 win (like fmj, or hpbt) - 1.7 usd / round
375 HH rnsp PPU - 3.5 usd / round

But all these prices went up in last year in local shops, about 25%.
Btw I am not from USA, but from EU, so cannot compare, too much.

 

[375er]

Cost is one thing, and you have calculated well.

There is also ergonomic factor;
you can shoot:

- thousands of 22lr
- hundreds of pistol ammo
- hundreds of rifle ammo up to 8mm
- And only dozens od 375 ammo.

- because if you shoot 375 in same volume as 22lr ammo in same time frame, you will have at least dislocated shoulder. This is not something to shoot all day long, unlike calibers up to 308 win.

A box of 375 per day at range is realistic. in my view.

So, even if 375 ammo is for free, you cannot shoot in same volume as other calibers you compare by price. So, getting to price, your calculation is correct, price is resonable, and it will be more reasonable with realistic expenditure which is limited.

My day at range is something like this:
50-100 - 22LR ammo
20-50 - 308 win ammo, average - 30
10-15 shots (MAX!) of 9.3x62 or 375 hh, usually less then 10.

based on this ratio, I was also doing training for african safari. (then without 375, but with available 9.3, and in the meantime got 375 as well)

For training I use the cheapest factory ammo. For real hunt, I use what I think is the best - price not important, the only thing is to re-zero the rifle. No issue for me.

I completely agree. Shoot the .375 enough to get to know it, but most practice is with .22. Lately on a good day I might shoot a dozen .375, often less. I only shoot my own reloads so I can't really comment on factory ammo. On game the .375 clearly speaks with authority in most situations.

 

[Mark A Ouellette]

All good advice provided so far.

I recommend acquiring a heavy target model .22 rifle. Ideally, get a .22 with enough bumps and bruises so that you won't mind doing whatever it needs to change the feel to that much like your .375 H&H.
Then, start shooting the .22 as much as possible.

Also, get four or more .375 snap caps, or make up some dummy cartridges. In your back yard or basement, far away from any live ammo, start dry firing. Practice bringing the rifle to your shoulder, acquiring the target, and firing, reload and fire, and so on. Also practice reloading under pressure.

If you dry fire a .22 you should also use a snap cap to protect the firing pin from striking the breach end of the barrel.

Finally, remember Wyatt Earp's advice about gunfighting, "Take your time, in a Hurry".

 

[ldmay375]

To me, cost is definitely a factor, especially in 375’s and above. The cost definitely goes up with the more specialized / premium bullets.
The ability to load the bullet that I want is also a big factor.

 

[mark-hunter]

From my contacts with those who reload (and are honest to say loud):
They say: first you buy basic equipment, then additional equipment, then extra equipment, gadgets, tools, the consumables, and also premium consumables.
And then you start rolling your own. More and more.
Total expenses amount.
Price per round reduces.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Cost is one thing, and you have calculated well.

There is also ergonomic factor;
you can shoot:

- thousands of 22lr
- hundreds of pistol ammo
- hundreds of rifle ammo up to 8mm
- And only dozens od 375 ammo.

- because if you shoot 375 in same volume as 22lr ammo in same time frame, you will have at least dislocated shoulder. This is not something to shoot all day long, unlike calibers up to 308 win.

A box of 375 per day at range is realistic. in my view.

So, even if 375 ammo is for free, you cannot shoot in same volume as other calibers you compare by price. So, getting to price, your calculation is correct, price is resonable, and it will be more reasonable with realistic expenditure which is limited.

My day at range is something like this:
50-100 - 22LR ammo
20-50 - 308 win ammo, average - 30
10-15 shots (MAX!) of 9.3x62 or 375 hh, usually less then 10.

based on this ratio, I was also doing training for african safari. (then without 375, but with available 9.3, and in the meantime got 375 as well)

For training I use the cheapest factory ammo. For real hunt, I use what I think is the best - price not important, the only thing is to re-zero the rifle. No issue for me.

@mark-hunter
Before I went to Namibia my range time consisted of 40 to 50 full house Whelen loads from various positions (not prone I'm a chicken) per session. It's surprising how quick you learn about your rifle and yourself in a few sessions.
Bob

 

[CoElkHunter]

From my contacts with those who reload (and are honest to say loud):
They say: first you buy basic equipment, then additional equipment, then extra equipment, gadgets, tools, the consumables, and also premium consumables.
And then you start rolling your own. More and more.
Total expenses amount.
Price per round reduces.

And that's if you can find the reloading components (primers, powder, cases, bullets) you need/want at a REASONABLE price without having to take a second mortgage out on your home to pay for it! LOL
And, you still can't find many factory loaded cartridges here either, so your damned if you do reload and damned if you don't?

 

[Woodcarver]

Tying in to my other thread of is it worth getting a 375, i want to know if it really is so expensive to shoot it?

From calculations done this morning (yes it can differ but this is average and in South African Rand)

Factory ammo in 375 works out to between R80 and R105 per round

Factory ammo in 30-06
Between R37 and R48 per round.

So clearly a big difference. However when it comes to reloading using similar bullets as the factory round(assuming you use a case 5 times)

375 works out to R50 average
30-06 works out to R 35 average


Again i understand figures can vary, but this is general and average.

But from this its absolutely worth reloading for the 375 purely based on cost. An it brings the cost per round very close to that of a 30 06. I am stunned to also see that purely based on cost, its not truly worth reloading for the 30 06.

This whole thread is based on cost and not the other advantages of Reloading. And for the sake of being able to afford more practice with said rifle caliber.

Reloading saves money. Yes, it can lead to shooting more, but it absolutely saves money. Especially when the caliber in question starts to grow in diameter.
Reloading equipment gets amortized over your lifetime, not over a given number of rounds reloaded. I have never met anyone that could honestly claim to have worn out a press. Many of us have bought another, but my old RCBS that my dad used in the 60s and 70s is still running strong. Buy the best quality you can afford and it will server you well for the rest of your life, and probably your kid's and grandkid's as well.
I am still using a very inexpensive Lee powder measure that I bought as a 2nd measure just to use for pistol cartridges. Had the thought that I would get a better one later when I wore it out. Here it is 20+ years later and many thousand of rounds produced, that cheap, mostly plastic, Lee measure is still accurately dumping out charges (I do not run any extruded powder through it).
Using today's prices for components, I will spend right at $1.50/rd for 270gr .375H&H rounds; $1.95/rd for my 300gr loads. "Cheap" factory ammo, when you can find it, is running around $3.50/rd. Most of what I have seen in $4+/rd.
When you reload, at least if you're paying attention, you take advantage of component sales and build a supply. I feel pretty safe in saying none of us that have a decent "stockpile" bought all of it at once or paid regular retail for much of it. This is why some will say it doesn't save any money. But when you calculate out the per round cost, the savings/round are absolutely there.
Obviously, the availability of components is going to be different in you neck of the woods, but shopping patiently and checking whatever sources you have regularly, should enable you to source what you need eventually. Same would apply if you're trying to find loaded ammo as well.
As others have pointed out, a key benefit of reloading is being able to create ammunition that brings out the best in your rifle. Good luck and good hunting!

 

[112Savage]

I weigh every charge and hand prime every round. Here’s my equipment.
RCBS Rock Chucker supreme
RCBS powder throw
RCBS 10-10 scale
RCBS universal hand primer
Digital caliper
Hornady bullet comparator and head space comparators
Lyman case prep center
Frankfort Arsenal dry tumbler
Frankfort Arsenal inertia bullet puller
probably $500 in equipment

For 375 Ruger
Primer $0.075
Powder $0.394
Case $0.40
Bullet $0.85 - Norma oryx 300gr
Total: $1.719

 

[Zambezi]

Unless you are shooting loads of handgun rounds and smaller calibre rifles etc, the best way to bring down ammo costs is to find a friend THAT YOU TRUST to reload for you. That way you only outlay the brass, powder, bullets etc and not the actual equipment costs.

 

[Longwalker]

One of the big advantages of hand loading is that you have a reliable supply of ammunition.

Once I find a combination that I am satisfied with, I tend to lay in a supply of bullets that will take care of the foreseeable future. That is much cheaper than buying and storing factory loaded ammunition. When my shooting depletes the supply of loaded ammo, I can refresh my supply whenever I want. I don't need to search the stores for what they have in stock. If a certain powder is not available, with a little research and experimenting I can usually substitute a similar burning rate powder and get similar results. So I don't worry about powder supplies much.

Where I live, most of the European cartridges and all the bigger bore cartridges are very rare. But bullets are not hard to find, and are easy to order and shipping is reasonable. So once a supply of cartridge cases is on hand for each rifle, a reasonably affordable inventory of bullets keeps me shooting for a long time.

I have a bunch of 7mm, .308" 9.3mm and .375" and .410" bullets, and load for 7x64, .30R Blaser, 9.3x62, 9.3x74R, .375H&H, and .450-400 3"

None of those cartridges are generally available in local stores.

 

[Dudders]

.Great way to look at it. However .375 is costing me between $80 and 100 USD plus shipping online now Just bought some Hornady DGX Bonded last night for $79 plus shipping last night.

Here in the UK the above will cost £95.00 so about $128.00 and you will have to go and collect it in person.

 

[Rare Breed]

I weigh every charge and hand prime every round. Here’s my equipment.
RCBS Rock Chucker supreme
RCBS powder throw
RCBS 10-10 scale
RCBS universal hand primer
Digital caliper
Hornady bullet comparator and head space comparators
Lyman case prep center
Frankfort Arsenal dry tumbler
Frankfort Arsenal inertia bullet puller
probably $500 in equipment

For 375 Ruger
Primer $0.075
Powder $0.394
Case $0.40
Bullet $0.85 - Norma oryx 300gr
Total: $1.719

Pretty much have exactly what you have nd save a mint

 

[BeeMaa]

Also, get four or more .375 snap caps, or make up some dummy cartridges. In your back yard or basement, far away from any live ammo, start dry firing. Practice bringing the rifle to your shoulder, acquiring the target, and firing, reload and fire, and so on. Also practice reloading under pressure.

Dry fire, dry fire and more dry fire practice will get you there quicker with less range time. There are lots of things you can do to cut down on ammo costs as others have mentioned. But dry fire requires almost zero investment except time and dedication.

Developing proper muscle memory is just as important as the accuracy you desire. Doing 15 minutes of dry fire practice a day from hunting positions will make your range sessions more effective and cut down on your live ammo costs. Range time will be just to verify you are doing everything right.

Another tool is to video yourself while doing dry fire practice and be hard on yourself in review. Make corrections and continue to try to improve your technique. You can also video your live fire sessions if the range allows it and compare it to your dry fire.

 

[D.M.V]

I don't know about others but after I started reloading "quite a long time ago" I could never bring myself to buy commercial rounds again unless they are almost giving them away. Which is not the case here today in the USA. I don't think you save much if you're reloading common calibers just you get a higher quality tailor made for the money. When you reload odd or big magnum calibers I think you save also sometimes you come across components cheap at a bargain or clearance sale and ya then you're shooting cheap but 9mm 40cal 45acp 223/5.56 and 308 there's savings but it's not dramatic like I said unless you come across a bargain

 

[Ridge Runner]

I agree not much savings if you are comparing cost per round or per box. But you do see a significant savings comparing cost per hundred and cost per 1000 rounds. Plus the versitility of bullets and producing the most accurate ammo for your firearms. Also like in times we are facing now with ammo shortages reloading ammo is almost a neccessity if you want to get out to the range for some target pactice, especially with the bigger bores for Africa.