Does it really do any good to have a fire safe?

steve white

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Bought a fire safe years ago, but it was too small considering recent purchases. Going to get a bigger one. Will a fire safe really keep the metallurgy of guns in usable condition in the event of house fire, or would I be as well off with the regular safes?
 
I am not sure what you mean by “regular” safe?? With the exception of wood cabinets all the steel safes have a fire rating to some degree…
 
I’m sure the fire can and will damage the guns but even if the heat doesn’t get to them the caustic water bath will finish them off. I would guess a lot of people keep their gun safes in the basement or first floor, if there is a fire, the water from the fire trucks will most likely pool in the bottom floor where the safe is…
I think of safes as a deterrent to slow down criminals - little to no protection for fires.
 
Look at the fire rating of the safe, then make a decision.

For most, if it is just a house fire and confined to a few rooms and the safe isn't directly exposed to the fire, I believe your firearms and papers inside will be fine.

But if the whole house is evolved, there may be problems with what you take out of the safe.

I purchased my safe way before they were popular, and it is just a tin box with a dial on the door that weighs 600 lbs empty.
 
I am not sure what you mean by “regular” safe?? With the exception of wood cabinets all the steel safes have a fire rating to some degree…
I just mean a standard safe like a Browning, etc, not one rated for fire protection. But from what I have heard it may be false security anyway to have a fire safe if the fire lasts longer than 20 min. or so?
 
I took mine apart and the fire proofing is drywall behind the pretty textile cover walls with a door seal that expands with heat. I think a full blown fire more than 20 minutes will cause damage.
Here you go:
The Best: Fire safes that are constructed with inner and outer steel plates enclosing a poured fire insulating material creating a seamless fire barrier. These safes offer superior fire protection and have been tested by either Underwriters Laboratories (UL rating) or Intertek (ETL).

Better: Fire safes are constructed with 2 to 4 assorted layers of gypsum board positioned throughout the interior body and door. These safes should be tested and verified by Intertek (ETL).

Good: Fire safes are constructed with 1 to 2 assorted layers of gypsum board positioned throughout the interior body and door. They typically offer a manufacturers independent fire rating.
 
I went with a concrete vault with a safe door. If you are ever building, this is a low cost and seriously cool option.
 
Lots of opinions on fire safes. Where my safe is now there is not enough fuel to do damage to essentially anything but a few gallons of paint - so yes, in the relative fuel-free area I have mine, it is worth it.

Some people with huge houses that have their safes in the holiest of the holies where there is fire fuel all around it that will burn for days on end...probably not...
 
Well what is your end goal? What is your budget? Safes are like rifles you have the cheap ones that will get the job done. Then you have the Graffunder. I'm 100% with @WAB on this. If you have the room build it, you will get more for your dollar.
 
How long does it take the fire department to get there? City house: 4, maybe 5 minutes. Country house: 20-30 minutes... buy several.
 

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Was victim to a major fire in 2007. If you have a standard gun safe- it offers little to no fire protection. Turns into an “oven” after it reaches its fire rating. Papers and guns were ruined by heat and water. Safes are good theft protection but don’t count on them for fire protection if you have a major house fire. Just my $.02 And personal experience.
 
My stand alone safes are primarily for theft deterrence. I designed my house with a built-in reinforced concrete safe room. I trust that room to be more fire resistant than any of the safes. My house's load bearing exterior walls are reinforced concrete. The floor is slate on concrete slab. Wood fuel is limited to room partition walls with sheet rock facing. Ceilings are sheet rock faced. Roof trusses are wood. Roof is heavy gauge pro panel. House is generally fire resistant but not fire proof. My stand alone safes are "fire rated" but I wouldn't trust them much beyond a Biden kitchen fire. I would think water damage from fire suppression would equal the risk from the fire itself. I was listening to a radio program the other day about home security and safes and the "expert" mentioned the basement as a good location for a safe. I think basements turn into swimming pools during and after a house fire due to burst pipes and fire suppression. I didn't listen much after that.
 
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In SA I’ve seen to many normal safes broken open with a crowbar by criminals. I bought a CAT3 fire resistant bank vault and refurbished into a gun safe. It has two key locks and a dial lock. No fun moving it at 1,3 tons, but I’m confident no previously disadvantaged South African is going to get in there while I’m away. It basically consists out of 10 mm steel, a layer of 2” concrete and another 10mm steel plate inside. Same with the door.
Now if you are home and Sipho holds a gun against your wife’s head, then no safe is fail proof.
 

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