CZ 458 lott

[calling4life]

CZ in 458 lott, the $1300 one:
As annoying as discussing this rifle may be, it's nearly in every thread.

I'm looking at one and last I saw AHR isn't taking new work.

So, issues that I've read about, gritty/cranky bolt and feeding can be an issue.

Seems working things over with a polishing compound could correct both, bolt rails and feed ramp.

Question being, as I've done this before and it seems to be a safer alternative, or at least a good, first step, to more involved polishing compounds and such. Tupperware container, fill with oil, throw in bolt, every few hours or as you remember, for multiple days, put the bolt in the gun and run the bolt like you stole it.
Spray action out heavily with rem oil (or the like) to clean it when done each time, put bolt back in tupperware each time, slosh it around a bit.

The last time I did this the result was the bolt ran like it was on glass, incredibly smooth, different make and smaller caliber, but nonetheless... bolt throw was amazing after. It's essentially wearing it in, just hopefully in a shorter time period. There is also the added benefit that this may illuminate a person to the areas that need some polishing... then maybe dremel...?

Next, work the feed ramp with a dremel, polishing felt head, and flitz, or a polishing compound, maybe you have some suggestions here?
My dremel allows me to adjust speed, so I can do this slowly if need be, but I can also do this, check feeding, then keep going if needed, then check, and so on...
I've actually done this on my 1911 in 9mm that I carry everyday.


So, I'm wondering if these may be decent enough "home" remedies and may (not remote, 1 in 10,000, but should work with due dilligence) work, or if there really are special nooks and crannies a guy just won't know about or get to and you have to get these off to a smith.

This isn't going for Africa dangerous game, but I live and hunt in bear country, so it will be "overkill" for game that can kill/maim here in bear country.

Point is, I need it to work, are these remedies a "will get you there," perhaps not as good as a smiths work, but functionally will get you there, or is it more a waste of time?

Other work will be done eventually, I'm just hoping that I can get after it with these remedies or remedies like this to get feeding fine to get me through winter use.

I have some further questions, but would like this hashed out initially, just in case this needs to be done immediately.

 

[Shootist43]

New CZ(s) are best described as "a work in progress, or "a diamond in the rough." If it feeds reliably, use it. All of the other stuff you mentioned can only help. My 404 Jeffery wouldn't feed the second or subsequent rounds and required a Gunsmith's services.

 

[Mark Biggerstaff]

All I will say is if you plan on scoping it do that first to make sure it will Zero before you put a lot of time and or money into it. I did not do this and CZ could not correct it and Wayne still has it at AHR trying to get it to zero with a scope. It shoots so low scoped that scopes run out of elevation before getting anywhere close to zero.

 

[Aaron N]

All I will say is if you plan on scoping it do that first to make sure it will Zero before you put a lot of time and or money into it. I did not do this and CZ could not correct it and Wayne still has it at AHR trying to get it to zero with a scope. It shoots so low scoped that scopes run out of elevation before getting anywhere close to zero.

So CZ sent the gun back, saying nothing could be done? Did they offer any form of compensation, or replacement?

 

[Aaron N]

CZ in 458 lott, the $1300 one:
As annoying as discussing this rifle may be, it's nearly in every thread.

I'm looking at one and last I saw AHR isn't taking new work.

So, issues that I've read about, gritty/cranky bolt and feeding can be an issue.

Seems working things over with a polishing compound could correct both, bolt rails and feed ramp.

Question being, as I've done this before and it seems to be a safer alternative, or at least a good, first step, to more involved polishing compounds and such. Tupperware container, fill with oil, throw in bolt, every few hours or as you remember, for multiple days, put the bolt in the gun and run the bolt like you stole it.
Spray action out heavily with rem oil (or the like) to clean it when done each time, put bolt back in tupperware each time, slosh it around a bit.

The last time I did this the result was the bolt ran like it was on glass, incredibly smooth, different make and smaller caliber, but nonetheless... bolt throw was amazing after. It's essentially wearing it in, just hopefully in a shorter time period. There is also the added benefit that this may illuminate a person to the areas that need some polishing... then maybe dremel...?

Next, work the feed ramp with a dremel, polishing felt head, and flitz, or a polishing compound, maybe you have some suggestions here?
My dremel allows me to adjust speed, so I can do this slowly if need be, but I can also do this, check feeding, then keep going if needed, then check, and so on...
I've actually done this on my 1911 in 9mm that I carry everyday.


So, I'm wondering if these may be decent enough "home" remedies and may (not remote, 1 in 10,000, but should work with due dilligence) work, or if there really are special nooks and crannies a guy just won't know about or get to and you have to get these off to a smith.

This isn't going for Africa dangerous game, but I live and hunt in bear country, so it will be "overkill" for game that can kill/maim here in bear country.

Point is, I need it to work, are these remedies a "will get you there," perhaps not as good as a smiths work, but functionally will get you there, or is it more a waste of time?

Other work will be done eventually, I'm just hoping that I can get after it with these remedies or remedies like this to get feeding fine to get me through winter use.

I have some further questions, but would like this hashed out initially, just in case this needs to be done immediately.

Why do you have to submerse the bolt in oil, as opposed to pouring some on?
Not question your methods, just looking for the reasoning!

 

[CoElkHunter]

My used CZ Lott had/has some issues with feeding 500gr Nosler Partitions. Feeds the WM 500 Partitions just fine. Might be I need a stronger magazine spring as it seems the round isn’t fully being captured into the bolt face before the round attempts to enter the chamber. But the last several five round chamberings have been OK. I put some Rem oil on the rails and it seemed to help. An AHR action job would be best though.

 

[Mark Biggerstaff]

So CZ sent the gun back, saying nothing could be done? Did they offer any form of compensation, or replacement?

CZ kept the gun for 4 weeks. Sent it back and said “That is best they can do to correct”. Gun shot worse than when I sent it in. Wayne had already done a No 1 job on it so CZ really didnt make an offer to replace it. Wayne had me send it back to him to try and figure out a better correction. CZ has had problems in the past with the 458 Lott and 416 Rigbys shooting low I was told by Wayne and a VP at CZ I emailed with.

 

[calling4life]

No intention to scope it, I'd like a shallow V rear and a big white or brass front dot, actually if any of you have suggestions on these I'm all ears. Are there any that are easy to swap out/replace the factory, that don't need a smith?

I submerse the bolt in oil just to ensure everything is coated, when I put the bolt in and run it, I'm not gentle, just helps to ensure no galling, gouging, etc... when doing so. I also feel I'd waste a lot more pouring it on.

I'm not a metal worker, it may be just be blind luck that it worked so well the first time...

I'm also fine with this being a 50 yard gun, I may play on a rare occasion at 100, but this isn't to be anything other than a stopper style firearm.

I actually meant to post this thread in the firearms section, not here... swing and a miss on my first try.

Hoping to hear some more about whether my home remedies are likely to get feeding squared away.

And, like noted, if you have advice for sights, rear may be fine, but I want a big front dot, and if there are different sizes that are easy to swap out in the factory setup, that's a massive plus.

 

[calling4life]

Since I noted sights.

Is there an option for a shallow rear V that is adjustable? So you can just adjust the height and windage via the rear vs having to replace the fronts.

 

[calling4life]

I'll be looking to put it in the bell and carlson stock, they install mercury recoil reducers so I'll have them do that. Look to see if I can add lead in the forearm too.

Timney trigger

barreled action is going to get cerakoted as well.

Thinking about whether or not to cut the barrel to 22", we'll see, I like the idea of more velocity and thus more energy too.

It's getting a muzzle brake.

Hoping she's about 12lbs all up and again, braked, thinking this should make for a gun that's actually fun to shoot, instead of it being something a person has to "put up with," shooting.

I wear hearing protection while hunting with rifles, brake isn't an issue for me, I can also shoot out my back door and don't hunt with others, not rifle hunts anyways, so others needn't worry about the noise or concussion from the muzzle brake either.

 

[DmacD]

All I will say is if you plan on scoping it do that first to make sure it will Zero before you put a lot of time and or money into it. I did not do this and CZ could not correct it and Wayne still has it at AHR trying to get it to zero with a scope. It shoots so low scoped that scopes run out of elevation before getting anywhere close to zero.

I had the same problem with a Lux 550 in 9.3x62, ran out of elevation adjustment in a Leupold VX-R scope. Ended up using two different mounts, with the front one being slightly thicker and thus, higher. This worked but it was ugly (to me) and I always wanted to change it. I mounted a Meopta scope and it had elevation to spare, allowing me to use the same brand and size of mounts again.

 

[fourfive8]

Idle curiosity here... has anyone determined the root cause of the runout in some of these CZs? Once in a great while it will happen (usually windage) with other bolt guns with the most common cause being the scope mounting d&t holes being out of alignment. This issue with some of the CZs sounds more like a barrel to action alignment problem. I would think the front to rear square bridge alignment would tend to be consistent... with the action likely being milled while locked in a jig or mill vice. Just curious??

 

[Forrest Halley]

Respectfully, from a guy with one of the meanest kicking Lotts out there, dump it. You're having to do too much to make it bearable. It's not known as a sweet shooting caliber. I think with a brake the only time it's going to be enjoyed when shot is when the shooting stops. It's currently in your care, but it sounds like it's not for you.