Browning BAR 30-06 For Sale

Mnovak

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Nice Browning BAR 30-06 manufactured in 1978 w/ Nikon 4-12x50 in Leopold rings.

$1200 plus shipping to your FFL

Trades considered

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If it is BELGIAN made than it would be little older than 1978? Almost certain at least

That is a nice rifle - glws
 
If it is BELGIAN made than it would be little older than 1978

That is a nice rifle - glws
It is stamped on the barrel made in Belgium assembled in Portugal.

I looked up the serial number and from what I could tell it is a 1978.
 
It is stamped on the barrel made in Belgium assembled in Portugal.

I looked up the serial number and from what I could tell it is a 1978.
Sounds good,

Any idea of the accuracy of the rifle ?
 
If it is BELGIAN made than it would be little older than 1978? Almost certain at least

That is a nice rifle - glws
Hope this helps, see pics.
Barrel stamp markings
First part of serial number
Page from browning to look up serial number and date of manufacture.
 

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I also should have the factory rear sight and factory set screws if scope is removed. I’ll have to look for them.
 
I see the serial number ends in the letter "RP" which means the gun was manufactured in 1978
I own several BAR's my first one was the 30-06 with a PZ meaning 1981
These BARs are extremely accurate since the barrel is threaded into the receivers making a solid match of barrel and action where the scope is mounted, as with amy guns some bullets/velocity are sweeter than others
I slso believe the original BARs where all made in Belgium not sure on the latter BAR II
 
sorry for the double partial posting but there is a 30 minute edit window

I see the serial number ends in the letter "RP" which means the gun was manufactured in 1978
I own several BAR's my first one was the 30-06 with a PZ meaning 1981
These BARs are extremely accurate since the barrel is threaded into the receivers making a solid match of barrel and action where the scope is mounted, as with any guns some bullets/velocity are sweeter than others
I also believe the original BARs (STEEL receivers)where all made in Belgium not sure on the latter BAR II

My only dislike with the early BAR was when you fired the last round was fired the bolt stays locked in the rearward position, the latter BARs had a bolt release on the right side like the old remington 742 mags)it is a nightmare to chamber a fresh round in this state since you need to hold back the tension of the bolt and either stick your finger through the ejection port and depress the follower in the magazine to be able to release the bolt, try that with gloves so the only choice is to release the magazine latch let the bolt close with out your finger getting caught place a new round into the mag and recycle the bolt. I developed a solution to this problem, the magazine follower has a lip at the rear (primer side) which the bolt engages when there is no cartridge in the mag, I file this lip down on a angle to allow the bolt to ride over the follower there by closing on and empty chamber. This allows you to pull the bolt back drop a loaded round into the open ejection port and let the bolt close thus chambering the round.

NOW I must advise everyone these rotary bolt semi' require sufficient force to strip a round from the mag force it into the chamber and have the rotary bolt shut freeing the firing pin so you can fire, these means check each round for damage or debris, I always function test each round prior to hunting.

Also, if you reload for these or any semi make certain you use small base sizing dies, I am told all factory ammo produced are small base sized there fore reducing problems loading or ejecting. You need to keep these guns clean since the rotary lugs on the bolt and chamber don't like debris which either prevents them from going into battery or failure to eject by ripping the rim off the brass, a cleaning rod should clear any stuck brass, I had that happen once and caused me to go back and get a rod.
These are also gas operated so routine maintenance dictates the take down of the action. I do not use oil on my semis since that has a tendency to gum up or slow up the action, I use graphite powder
 

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