Barrel Break-in - .416 Rigby

browningbbr

AH fanatic
Joined
Apr 6, 2009
Messages
605
Reaction score
428
Location
Southern Wisconsin, USA
Media
32
Hunting reports
Africa
2
Member of
SCI Badgerland Chapter, NRA, Local Sportsmen's Club
Hunted
South Africa, Tanzania
I just purchased a Ruger M77 in .416 Rigby and I'd appreciate some advice on the barrel break-in procedures / methods.

I already have a set of procedures that have worked very well for my .22-250, 7mm Rem Mag, .300 Mag, etc. These are the well-known "clean after one shot for ten rounds, clean after each 3 shots for 21 rounds..." method.

I'm convinced that proper break-in contributes to accuracy and barrel life.

Should I be using the same method for a big bore?

Also, I hand load all of my ammunition. Is there a specific bullet and/or velocity that should be used for break-in?

Thank-you in advance for any help you can provide based on your experience.

- browningbbr
 
Browning ..that would probably be ok!! I never got into that cleaning after every shot, I always shot a 3 shot group & cleaned it for 10 consecutive strings! I guess it's up to you! As far as any guns or big bore that I've had I just loaded a decent start round and shot the 3 shot group & cleaned the barrel, That way you can kind of see if the process is doing anything for that load or if you have to find a different combimation of components to make the gun accurate!! Good Luck!!
 
Calhoun:

Thanks. I guess I'll use the method I've used in the past. I don't mind the extra cleaning on the first 10. I usually shoot through the chronograph and start getting some preliminary data on velocity as well.

I should have also asked about crimping. I know that I'll need to crimp the case mouths to keep bullets in the magazine from jumping forward out of the cases due to recoil.

How much crimp will I need for this kind of round? I'm planning to shoot 400gn bullets going about 2450fps out of a 9.5 pound rifle, so rifle recoil will probably substantial.

I've made up a handful of bullets for initial testing with just enough crimp to make the case mouth touch the bullet shank in the cannelure.

- browningbbr
 
Browning... Having never loaded for the 416 Rigby I would say that is about where I would start at for crimp!! My 375 H&H thats all the crimp I use & it's sufficient! Although there is going to be more recoil in your gun than mine!
Happy Shooting!!
 
I shoot the same rifle. I made the following modifications and now I love the rifle; pachmyr recoil pad, added crossbolt, glass bed stock. Instld Leupold 1.5x5 scope on Weaver bases w/ Burris Zee rings. My 1st stock cracked after only 5 rounds - Ruger replaced it, no charge.
I don't crimp any tighter than you are, never had a problem.
I usually shoot Hdy 400 gr soft in front of 104 gr H4831. Jackrabbits don't have a chance, even the mad ones that charge the tires. Elk generally move sideways about 6 inches before falling. I've taken 2 buff w/ it, both w/ 400 gr TBBC, both down after 1st shot. Plan to try it on an elephant someday.
 
Pancho

Thanks. Looks like I'm on the right track. I was thinking about glass bedding, but will wait until I get a few rounds through it before deciding.

- browningbbr
 

Forum statistics

Threads
65,776
Messages
1,453,328
Members
138,145
Latest member
TerrieRutt
 

 

 

Latest posts

Latest profile posts

steve white wrote on ftothfadd's profile.
I will take the Tikka rings and scope cover, if not spoken for...
teklanika_ray wrote on USMA84DAB's profile.
X
tarbe wrote on DAVE LANGERMAN Safaris's profile.
Dave - Kathy ad I hope to see you Friday at DSC!

Tim Arbeiter
doctari505 wrote on PaulB's profile.
Hi PaulB. Would you be interested in another WJ Jeffery .450/.400 NE 3". It's an extractor model and in superb condition, cased as well. Made in 1908. The rifle is here in Texas.
migrabill wrote on eswan68587's profile.
I will take the knife for $250 shipped. Please tell me how you would like the payment.

Thanks-
[redacted]
 
Top