375 H& H barrel length

Luvthunt

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Barrel on my CZ 550 375 is 24”. Rifle is heavy (9.6 lb) without scope and was thinking about taking wood off and out ot the stock along with cutting barrel to 22” . Question is : opinion on cutting back to 22” to give me better balance between the hands and feel of lighter weight. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
 
I doubt 2 inches will make much diffence in weight and I will take a longer barrel any day. Everyone of those I have handled with the factory stock felt like a club to me. The problem is the stock not the barrel length.
 
My primary two rifles are a Sako 85 in 300 win and a Sako 85 kodiak in 375 H&H. They are identical rifles as far as I can tell, but the shorter barrel on the kodiak makes it point much more naturally for offhand shooting.
I’ve never considered cutting a factory barrel on a rifle. How would this affect accuracy?
 
You will get a velocity loss with a shorter barrel and accuracy can be affected depending on the load. How a gun points is really an individual preference. I have a 26 inch barrel on mine and love it. Has never been a problem even in thicker brush.
 
My advice is to stay with 24". To me, a shorter barrel makes the rifle jumping more, and produces more muzzle blast, resulting in a more difficult rapid second shot - and you definitely want an easy second shot on a dangerous game rifle.
 
The gunsmith recommended NOT futzing with my M70 H&H barrel length; instead he said with a rifle stock change both pointability and balance would improve for off-hand shooting with the 24" barrel.

As usual, he was right :) All up with scope and loaded magazine it weighs 9 lbs (I don't use a sling).

Perfect.
 
The barrel on my .375 is a heavier profile. I had it cut down to 21” when the rifle was customized. It handles much better and velocity loss with H-414 is minimal.
 
You will lose velocity with shortening the barrel, but I don’t think 2” from a 375 will be a detrimental velocity loss. I’m sure you can Google 375h&h velocities from a 22” barrel to get an idea of what you would see. It may not be e huge weight savings by lopping off a couple inches, but due to that weight’s location, it will make a huge difference in the felt weight and balance of the rifle. Separating the overall weight you are seeking from the balance of the rifle, if you feel like it is front heavy, that could be a very nice improvement. Also, if you think the balance is great right now, removing weight only from the stock could result in the rifle feeling front heavy. Good luck!
 
In my opinion, you are going to throw a lot of money into this and still come out with a club that is now unsellable.

If you must have controlled feed, I would consider swapping for a model 70 alaskan at 8.5 pounds or ruger african 375ruger at 8 pounds.
 
1. I vote for the stock fit making a world of difference. Goldilocks level of fit is required in this matter. I find the Hogue overloaded on my Ruger Alaskans makes a huge difference. They may suck at fit for someone else. They are not "pretty" in terms of wood beauty, so some detest them. You do you, Boo!

2. I have not been a PH, did not stay at Holiday Inn Express last night, nor am I a biologist. However, I can pick the brains of PHs and life-long hunters. Robertson says shorter is better. Woods says shorter is better. Boddington indicates he also is afflicted with old man disease where things get heavier and heavier. Shorter is better to me if you are genuinely stalking/still hunting/climbing/crawling through he brush. If you step off the truck and stalk 50 yards, no big deal.

3. The velocity loss issue is a false issue. 1st, Robertson's DVM terminal ballistic research has taught him that maxing out velocity is counter productive. 2nd, the 25-50 FPS one would lose by bobbing off 2" of barrel will never be noticed by the animal.

4. If you like toting a 26" pike through the bush, good on ya! It is your rifle and what makes you pleased as punch may or may not make me the same, and vice versa.

5. I believe the fear of increased muzzle blast is a hollow argument - it is a freaking rifle discharging! IT GOES BANG REALLY LOUD! Since one only would see muzzle flash hunting leopard, who cares. If it is a concern, then adjust your load/handload to reduce the flash and more completely9 burn the powder in the 22" barrel vs. the 24" barrel. A parallel issue occurs with AR-type platforms - when you go to a 10" barrel on an AR pistol, the increase in report and flash is noticeable. Going from 18" to 16", not so much. I would posit that going from 24" to 22" will not be that huge a deal. My 20" barrels do not scythe down any bystanders with ferocious muzzle blast.

6. There is a mild "cult" on here of "traditional" African rifle "nerds". Not meant as an insult - just pointing out what some may not realize. 26" barrels, AAA fancy walnut, deep and lustrous blueing - if it isn't this Rx, then it is "wrong". Maybe for you. I am willing to allow you to enjoy your rifle as you want it. If dressing up like Bell and carrying those rifles smashes your fun button, awesome. However, please stop justifying your desires with wives tale-like issues (increased muzzle blast in going from 24" to 22", for example). Your 26" really might be the Goldilocks arrangement for you, and mine at 20" is for me. There is a spectrum/balance of too much velocity (and thus recoil) vs. enough velocity/recoil to achieve quick, humane termination of the quarry vs. use enough gun to have certainty of results. There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch (TANSTAAFL). Each hunter gets to pick his spot along the continuum that tickles their fancy. I just returned a rifle to a Client this week. His hunting "buddy" advised him on getting the perfect elk rifle - .300 WSM with 26" barrel and a 4-24x50 mounted 6" over the barrel (and no cheekiest to align his eye with the scope tube). The Client told me he hated the rifle and was afraid to fire it as it beat the crap out of him with each trigger pull. Yet, by Bubba's tiny male appendage syndrome rules, that was the perfect rifle to get him an elk - I guess by clubbing the animal, since he cannot find ammo for the thing. Good on LUVTHUNT for seeking counsel here from the members!

7. Shorter barrels are generally EASIER to get to shoot accurately due to lessened barrel whip. It still must have a great crown. A long barrel can shoot great/better than a short one. So many variables in crown, load, projo, etc.. Why are we even discussing accuracy when we will engage the quarry at a MAXIMUM of 150 yards?!?!? That is inside of the operating parameters of a freaking AK!!!! Who here can hold 1 MOA from a field shooting position anyway? FIELD accuracy vs. bench shooting are two different worlds. Now add in adrenaline. Unless a crown is FUBAR'ed, the rifle will be adequately accurate.

8. Obviously, my military and hunting experience, as well as counsel from "elders" has resulted in different views than many above in this thread. Value the ones I disagree with as much or more as mine. Then try out the ideas for yourself and determine which ones work for YOU. Your rifle, your rules. There must be some form of joy with the "African Nerd" rifles, or people would not have them built. Hope at least this served as the World War Z alternative to the normal opinions. Kevin Robertson thinks I am a loon for stringing my rifle into the sling like an AR - but it WORKS! Find what works for you!
 
OVER MOLDED - thanks spelling "corrector"
 
There is a mild "cult" on here of "traditional" African rifle "nerds". Not meant as an insult - just pointing out what some may not realize. 26" barrels, AAA fancy walnut, deep and lustrous blueing - if it isn't this Rx, then it is "wrong". Maybe for you. I am willing to allow you to enjoy your rifle as you want it. If dressing up like Bell and carrying those rifles smashes your fun button, awesome. However, please stop justifying your desires with wives tale-like issues (increased muzzle blast in going from 24" to 22", for example). Your 26" really might be the Goldilocks arrangement for you, and mine at 20" is for me.

That's how I ended up with a 9 pound bare rifle 375hh. I still have it (need to probably part with it but it would make for a nice "display piece"), but I also have a 6.5lb stainless/synthetic 375hh that is just over 8 pounds scoped. Wonderful rifle - very happy with it
 
I just purchased a 550 in 375. I wouldn't blame you for trimming down the barrel to make it handier but I would try working that stock over first and see if that makes it to your liking. I can't believe how much extra wood is on that stock. I have mine in my cabinet between my browning 458 and a sporterized mauser, and the cz looks comically big.
 
Good positive advice from all. Thank you.
My rifle is a pre-64 model 70 Winchester. As I started with an action and had it barreled with a #3 contour McGowen 24in. barrel I decided to cut it back to 22in. Too me (just me) it handles quicker in hand and follow up shots come just as quick. Shorter barrels tend to be stiffer and so far no matter what reloads I run through it, it puts everything into tiny 1 hole ragged groups. Using W-760 velocity loss has been minimal. This is what works for me.
 
Barrel on my CZ 550 375 is 24”. Rifle is heavy (9.6 lb) without scope and was thinking about taking wood off and out ot the stock along with cutting barrel to 22” . Question is : opinion on cutting back to 22” to give me better balance between the hands and feel of lighter weight. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
I thought 9.6 was light :(
 
1. I vote for the stock fit making a world of difference. Goldilocks level of fit is required in this matter. I find the Hogue overloaded on my Ruger Alaskans makes a huge difference. They may suck at fit for someone else. They are not "pretty" in terms of wood beauty, so some detest them. You do you, Boo!

2. I have not been a PH, did not stay at Holiday Inn Express last night, nor am I a biologist. However, I can pick the brains of PHs and life-long hunters. Robertson says shorter is better. Woods says shorter is better. Boddington indicates he also is afflicted with old man disease where things get heavier and heavier. Shorter is better to me if you are genuinely stalking/still hunting/climbing/crawling through he brush. If you step off the truck and stalk 50 yards, no big deal.

3. The velocity loss issue is a false issue. 1st, Robertson's DVM terminal ballistic research has taught him that maxing out velocity is counter productive. 2nd, the 25-50 FPS one would lose by bobbing off 2" of barrel will never be noticed by the animal.

4. If you like toting a 26" pike through the bush, good on ya! It is your rifle and what makes you pleased as punch may or may not make me the same, and vice versa.

5. I believe the fear of increased muzzle blast is a hollow argument - it is a freaking rifle discharging! IT GOES BANG REALLY LOUD! Since one only would see muzzle flash hunting leopard, who cares. If it is a concern, then adjust your load/handload to reduce the flash and more completely9 burn the powder in the 22" barrel vs. the 24" barrel. A parallel issue occurs with AR-type platforms - when you go to a 10" barrel on an AR pistol, the increase in report and flash is noticeable. Going from 18" to 16", not so much. I would posit that going from 24" to 22" will not be that huge a deal. My 20" barrels do not scythe down any bystanders with ferocious muzzle blast.

6. There is a mild "cult" on here of "traditional" African rifle "nerds". Not meant as an insult - just pointing out what some may not realize. 26" barrels, AAA fancy walnut, deep and lustrous blueing - if it isn't this Rx, then it is "wrong". Maybe for you. I am willing to allow you to enjoy your rifle as you want it. If dressing up like Bell and carrying those rifles smashes your fun button, awesome. However, please stop justifying your desires with wives tale-like issues (increased muzzle blast in going from 24" to 22", for example). Your 26" really might be the Goldilocks arrangement for you, and mine at 20" is for me. There is a spectrum/balance of too much velocity (and thus recoil) vs. enough velocity/recoil to achieve quick, humane termination of the quarry vs. use enough gun to have certainty of results. There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch (TANSTAAFL). Each hunter gets to pick his spot along the continuum that tickles their fancy. I just returned a rifle to a Client this week. His hunting "buddy" advised him on getting the perfect elk rifle - .300 WSM with 26" barrel and a 4-24x50 mounted 6" over the barrel (and no cheekiest to align his eye with the scope tube). The Client told me he hated the rifle and was afraid to fire it as it beat the crap out of him with each trigger pull. Yet, by Bubba's tiny male appendage syndrome rules, that was the perfect rifle to get him an elk - I guess by clubbing the animal, since he cannot find ammo for the thing. Good on LUVTHUNT for seeking counsel here from the members!

7. Shorter barrels are generally EASIER to get to shoot accurately due to lessened barrel whip. It still must have a great crown. A long barrel can shoot great/better than a short one. So many variables in crown, load, projo, etc.. Why are we even discussing accuracy when we will engage the quarry at a MAXIMUM of 150 yards?!?!? That is inside of the operating parameters of a freaking AK!!!! Who here can hold 1 MOA from a field shooting position anyway? FIELD accuracy vs. bench shooting are two different worlds. Now add in adrenaline. Unless a crown is FUBAR'ed, the rifle will be adequately accurate.

8. Obviously, my military and hunting experience, as well as counsel from "elders" has resulted in different views than many above in this thread. Value the ones I disagree with as much or more as mine. Then try out the ideas for yourself and determine which ones work for YOU. Your rifle, your rules. There must be some form of joy with the "African Nerd" rifles, or people would not have them built. Hope at least this served as the World War Z alternative to the normal opinions. Kevin Robertson thinks I am a loon for stringing my rifle into the sling like an AR - but it WORKS! Find what works for you!
Like the Robert A Heinlein reference. Been a long time since I’ve heard TANSTAAFL
 
My 1st 375 weighed just under 13 lbs and was a pleasure to shoot. The 2nd (American sporter was 9.5 and about as light as one would prefer-esp for max 350 gr handloads for DG). Why would you want to lighten an already light-for-caliber gun (and reduce its velocity?) What is the purpose of this gun? Where and what will you be hunting? I have plenty of deer rifles that shoot as far as you can see that weigh nearly that much (and they are NOT 375s) and a couple .22 varmint rifles that weigh more! A large surface area buttstock, a quality recoil pad, gun weight, bbl contour and length, all steel scope mounts and a quality heavier scope-all add up to a pleasant-shooting, recoil-reducing, super accurate DG gun! ;) DG guns properly set up, will not require too many shots in a lifetime. If you're backing hunters on Kodiak Island, you're on the right path....
 
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Not apples to apples but, I have a 22" barrel CZ 458 Lott that weighs about 9# 11.5 ounces with Alaska Arms rings & a Swarovski 1-6x24 EE. It has Bell & Carlson stock which I attribute the weight loss to.
 

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idjeffp wrote on Jon R15's profile.
Hi Jon,
I saw your post for the .500 NE cases. Are these all brass or are they nickel plated? Hard for me to tell... sorry.
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Boise, ID
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FDP wrote on dailordasailor's profile.
1200 for the 375 barrel and accessories?
 
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