Recoil reducers

I’m new to the whole big bore thing and question is “Recoil Reducers”and how to determine which one you need/choosing correct fit for Ruger RSM Mark ii

Dublinpiper90 said:

I’m new to the whole big bore thing and question is “Recoil Reducers”and how to determine which one you need/choosing correct fit for Ruger RSM Mark ii

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What is the caliber you are trying to reduce recoil on?

.458 Lott, it’s not very bad considering the caliber just curious on what one would do

I wouldn't put a muzzle brake on it, that will be stupid loud when you shoot it. There's any number of recoil reducers that can be added to the stock. Some that just simply add weight. Others that use spring loaded weights and/or mecury filled that not only add weight but more action to counter the backward movement of the rifle under firing.

The main things you can do are add weight, muzzle brake, and a better recoil/butt pad.

I personally really dislike muzzle brakes and I feel bad for PHs that have to get their ear drums blown out by everyone adding one to every gun possible. So my preference is to stick with the other two methods.

I don’t want add a muzzle break, yes there loud and I just do t particularly care for the way they look on certain rifles, What are some trusted brands of reducers?

Following!

Tungsten is about the heaviest material that is readily available per unit of volume, if you have the tooling available. Lead is a simpler option, DO NOT POUR MOLTEN LEAD IN A WOOD STOCK. I would pour the lead into a copper tube then cut to length. I have been looking to add weight to a single shot 600ne and there was lots of math figuring out what way to go.

Dublinpiper90 said:

I’m new to the whole big bore thing and question is “Recoil Reducers”and how to determine which one you need/choosing correct fit for Ruger RSM Mark ii

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I use Edwards Recoil reducers in all my larger rifles.

I’ve added mercury recoil reducers to two stocks with good success. That said, I wouldn’t do it again because of the hazards associated with mercury and possible problems with travel. I sold these rifles quite a while ago.

Tungsten beads (TSS) is a really good option and there are a couple of manufacturers who offer these. Sadly, it’s not often easily adaptable to firearms other than the one it was intended for. My wife has a Blaser Kickstop on her Intuition and likes it. I also had one in my PH stock.

I have no personal experience with the Edwards Recoil Reducer but hear nothing but good things about them.

R.A.D. is another option. Have one on my smokeless muzzleloader, adjustable hydraulic cylinder. Yeah, I know, it's a: a contraption, b. doesn't look good, or c: anything anyone can think of to denigrate it. YMMV.
Tried the mercury unit, no noticeable difference.

Limb Saver makes a magnum recoil pad that fits the RSM; I had one on my .416Rigby.

Philip Glass said:

I use Edwards Recoil reducers in all my larger rifles.

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@Philip Glass, do you mind elaborating a bit more. Which model do you use, did you install it yourself into the draw bolt hole, or had a gunsmith install. Thanks!

Bell & Carlson stocks offers 1 or 2 recoil reducers bedded properly into the fiberglass @ 11 oz. each plus a nice decelerator recoil pad. Not too expensive, I got one with 2 reducers in a stock for around $440. The Win Mod 70 action dropped right into the aluminum pillar bed nicely.

I would first try a prefit recoil pad for the RSM.
I have used a Dead Mule recoil reducer. I could not tell it reduced recoil that much. It did add weight to shotgun.

PARA45 said:

@Philip Glass, do you mind elaborating a bit more. Which model do you use, did you install it yourself into the draw bolt hole, or had a gunsmith install. Thanks!

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No Ive normally called or emailed Kevin and asked his opinion on the actual reducer and then sent the stock to him for installation. Some guns are easy to do your self. It has worked for me!

Mercury reducers are simply an expensive weight. They use fake science to sell them. I used lead in some old 458 cases and an appropriate sized drill to add weight. A good recoil pad with nice rounded corners is also good. Some pads are oddly shaped with sharp corners and they leave a mark. Also very important is balance- barrel or butt heavy causes the rifle to rise rapidly in recoil. I find balancing at the magazine makes recoil more straight back.

I’ve found that a rifle that fits properly has less felt recoil vs one that doesn’t.

As the caliber goes up, rifle fit becomes more important. Have a poor fitting 22lr…not such a big deal as a 458LOTT that could get you severely scope cut.

There’s also a technique for shooting larger cartridges. Try to use the same technique from shooting a tactical AR on a big bore and it won’t be pleasant.

These two factors (rifle fit & technique) go right along with dry fire and range sessions. Everything needs to be well practiced to be shooting the big boys well.

You can order tungsten rods on Ebay from China. Used in front of the stock they can work as bedding and make the stock stronger.

I have Recoil Reducers in 3 of my shotguns and 2 of my hardest kicking rifles (.300 Wby and .375 RUM), along with 1" Limbsaver, Kick Eze, or Hogue pads. One of the reducers is mercury, the others are mechanical, Edwards or Dead Mule. Some are 6 oz, others are 8 oz. I put reducers in my competition Trap and Skeet shotguns in the mid '80s. At this point I can't remember which ones are in which rifle or shotgun, but they all helped to reduce the felt recoil of each gun.

I was a little nervous drilling 7/8" holes in the AA Fancy walnut stock of my .300 Wby and in the stock of my .375 RUM, but I was very careful, and everything turned out OK.

For Skeet competitions, I had my Browning Citori O/U 12 ga shotgun fitted with full length Briley 20 and 28 ga and .410 tubes so that I could shoot all 4 events with the same shotgun. To help keep the weight of the gun close to the same when shooting 12 ga without tubes to shooting the other gauges with tubes, I routed out a channel in the gun's forend and poured 6 oz of lead into it. This lead plug easily comes out when I use the small ga tubes.

I also had the barrels of my competition shotguns ported which reduces felt recoil a little, but more imiportantly it reduces the muzzle jump which is very important for a quick 2nd shot in doubles.

30 years ago I bought a Rem 12 ga 870 shotgun for bird hunting, but when shooting a 25 round of Skeet with it, it would bruise my cheek, so I lengthened it's pull with a 1/4" spacer and put a recoil reducer in it's stock, and the bruising stopped.

I've built the stocks on all of my rifles, and have lengthened the pull on all of my shotguns so that they all fit me.

When I first shot my .375 RUM, the recoil was so bad that I couldn't even shoot it enough to zero the scope. I then had a KDF muzzle brake installed on it and put a reducer in it's stock. I now do not have any proplems shooting it off a bench or prone.

Before I fired the first shot from my .300 Wby, I had a KDF muzzle brake installed on the barrel, and I built the AA Fancy walnut stock for it that fits me and has a recoil reducer in it.

I've used these 2 rifles on at least 11 guided hunts, and have never had a guide or PH say anything about the report of these rifles. I always use at least foam earplugs when I shoot these rifles, and I carry extra new earplugs that I offer to the guides.