Reloading Nickel vs Brass Cases

Goat416 · Friday at 12:22 PM

Reloading Nickel-Plated vs. Brass Cases: Which Do You Prefer?

I have a large number of nickel-plated cases in magnum calibers that I'm considering reloading. While I’ve reloaded for years, I have limited experience with larger dangerous game calibers and none with nickel-plated cases. I’ve encountered mixed opinions on the pros and cons of reloading nickel-plated cases, so I’m hoping to hear from those who have experience with both brass and nickel-plated cases, especially in DG calibers.

In addition to general insights on these two case types, I'd love to know more about:

Any differences you’ve noticed in the reloading process itself,
The relative lifespan of each type,
Whether nickel-plated cases seem to be harder on your dies,
And if the wear signs for nickel differ significantly from brass.

Are there any additional factors or tips you’d recommend when working with nickel-plated cases?

Longwalker · Friday at 2:05 PM

I have reloaded many nickel plated cases in cartridges like .222, 7mm-08, .308, 30-06, 7x64 .35 Whelen etc. but nothing larger.
Mostly, it is just the same as regular all-brass cases. clean, lube, resize, load and shoot.
I did find it a bit harder on the cutters of my case trimmer. Seems to dull them sooner. Carbide cutters work better than carbon steel when trimming plated brass.
When resizing, a small series of burrs may develop in the loading die, which is actually flakes of nickel sticking to the shoulder/neck junction of the die. Happens more when resizing newly trimmed cases. This may scratch the necks of the resized cases. I thought I had ruined my dies, and the scratches were annoying until I learned to clean the dies once in a while. But this stuff is easily cleaned out with a bore cleaning brush wrapped in a little fine steel wool and chucked in an electric drill.
Lifespan is the same in my experience. The only early failures I had was when trying to expand nickel plated 30-06 to .35 Whelen dimensions. If I annealed the case necks first, no problem.
My cases are almost always retired when the primer pockets expand too much to hold the primer snugly. I have found no difference in that limit to case life with nickel plated cases.

Sarg · Friday at 2:34 PM

Longwalker said:
I have reloaded many nickel plated cases in cartridges like .222, 7mm-08, .308, 30-06, 7x64 .35 Whelen etc. but nothing larger.
Mostly, it is just the same as regular all-brass cases. clean, lube, resize, load and shoot.
I did find it a bit harder on the cutters of my case trimmer. Seems to dull them sooner. Carbide cutters work better than carbon steel when trimming plated brass.
When resizing, a small series of burrs may develop in the loading die, which is actually flakes of nickel sticking to the shoulder/neck junction of the die. Happens more when resizing newly trimmed cases. This may scratch the necks of the resized cases. I thought I had ruined my dies, and the scratches were annoying until I learned to clean the dies once in a while. But this stuff is easily cleaned out with a bore cleaning brush wrapped in a little fine steel wool and chucked in an electric drill.
Lifespan is the same in my experience. The only early failures I had was when trying to expand nickel plated 30-06 to .35 Whelen dimensions. If I annealed the case necks first, no problem.
My cases are almost always retired when the primer pockets expand too much to hold the primer snugly. I have found no difference in that limit to case life with nickel plated cases.

Great stuff @Longwalker & good question @Goat416 .

I had wondered the pros & cons of Nickel cases myself, I have loaded a few .458win in nickel & 338/06 from 30/06 I use these for different loads so I don’t get my 338/06 mixed in with my 30/06 ammo & lighter bullets in my.458win if I’m messing about with 400gr - 450gr slugs .

I only noticed the nickel finish wears a little on cases that are reloaded more or rough handled, ie either empty’s on the floor of a vehicle or in back pack.

skydiver386 · Friday at 2:46 PM

I think a lot depends on how hard you push your brass. If you load to moderate pressures and only neck size, they are fine. If you push pressure to max and full length size, you may encounter some problems.

Nickel plating can make it harder to spot case head separation and other cracks. I've also seen nickel cases that looked fine on the outside, but were very corroded on the inside. Every reloader should inspect their brass between firings and look the case over inside and out.

In all I'd prefer non-plated brass, but some calibers are only available in plated. Sometimes you have to take whatever you can get.

Wyatt Smith · Friday at 2:48 PM

I notice on 357 magnum they tend to crack quicker than plain brass. I only load my nickel brass with jacketed bullets to minimize the need to bell the cases.

Goat416 · Friday at 3:28 PM

Longwalker said:
I have reloaded many nickel plated cases in cartridges like .222, 7mm-08, .308, 30-06, 7x64 .35 Whelen etc. but nothing larger.
Mostly, it is just the same as regular all-brass cases. clean, lube, resize, load and shoot.
I did find it a bit harder on the cutters of my case trimmer. Seems to dull them sooner. Carbide cutters work better than carbon steel when trimming plated brass.
When resizing, a small series of burrs may develop in the loading die, which is actually flakes of nickel sticking to the shoulder/neck junction of the die. Happens more when resizing newly trimmed cases. This may scratch the necks of the resized cases. I thought I had ruined my dies, and the scratches were annoying until I learned to clean the dies once in a while. But this stuff is easily cleaned out with a bore cleaning brush wrapped in a little fine steel wool and chucked in an electric drill.
Lifespan is the same in my experience. The only early failures I had was when trying to expand nickel plated 30-06 to .35 Whelen dimensions. If I annealed the case necks first, no problem.
My cases are almost always retired when the primer pockets expand too much to hold the primer snugly. I have found no difference in that limit to case life with nickel plated cases.

Great idea for cleaning dies, probably not a bad practice to clean them regularly.

Goat416 · Friday at 3:53 PM

skydiver386 said:
I think a lot depends on how hard you push your brass. If you load to moderate pressures and only neck size, they are fine. If you push pressure to max and full length size, you may encounter some problems.

Nickel plating can make it harder to spot case head separation and other cracks. I've also seen nickel cases that looked fine on the outside, but were very corroded on the inside. Every reloader should inspect their brass between firings and look the case over inside and out.

In all I'd prefer non-plated brass, but some calibers are only available in plated. Sometimes you have to take whatever you can get.

I have always reloaded the brass cases myself, so I guess that is also my preference.

What is your inspection process on the inside of the case? Just a quick visual inspection down the neck or are you using a scope?

Doug3006 · Friday at 3:56 PM

I have loaded a ton of Federal nickel-plated brass cartridges in 375. I tend to load on the slower end of velocity. I’ve had good results loading up to 4 times. No cracks.

Goat416 · Friday at 4:06 PM

Doug3006 said:
I have loaded a ton of Federal nickel-plated brass cartridges in 375. I tend to load on the slower end of velocity. I’ve had good results loading up to 4 times. No cracks.

Do you crimp the nickel cases? How does that effect the nickel plating? What bullets are you reloading?

DrBob · Friday at 4:35 PM

Moderate loads, neck sizing and annealing the case necks after 5 reloadings extends the life of the cases. I hand anneal the cases. In a dimly lit room, i quit the annealing before the inside of the neck /goes beyond a faint dull red and/or the case (held at the base) gets too toasty to hold. I get up to 15 reloads with ease.

skydiver386 · Friday at 4:54 PM

Goat416 said:
I have always reloaded the brass cases myself, so I guess that is also my preference.

What is your inspection process on the inside of the case? Just a quick visual inspection down the neck or are you using a scope?

Take a paper clip and bent the last 1/8 of an inch at a 90 degree angle. Straighten one bend (loop) in the paper clip and insert it into the case neck. Just ahead of the web close to the extractor groove in the case, you'll feel a burn ring starting to form when a case has stretched to much from firing. This is when you know a case head separation is imminent.

Another inspection point is the outside of the case in the same area. Before and after firing take your caliper and measure just ahead of the extractor groove at the widest point. Longest case life is usually achieved when you have minimal difference in measurements before and after firing.

Goat416 · Friday at 5:02 PM

skydiver386 said:
Take a paper clip and bent the last 1/8 of an inch at a 90 degree angle. Straighten one bend (loop) in the paper clip and insert it into the case neck. Just ahead of the web close to the extractor groove in the case, you'll feel a burn ring starting to form when a case has stretched to much from firing. This is when you know a case head separation is imminent.
View attachment 642646
Another inspection point is the outside of the case in the same area. Before and after firing take your caliper and measure just ahead of the extractor groove at the widest point. Longest case life is usually achieved when you have minimal difference in measurements before and after firing.

Great information, Thanks

DrBob · Friday at 5:41 PM

skydiver386 said:
Take a paper clip and bent the last 1/8 of an inch at a 90 degree angle. Straighten one bend (loop) in the paper clip and insert it into the case neck. Just ahead of the web close to the extractor groove in the case, you'll feel a burn ring starting to form when a case has stretched to much from firing. This is when you know a case head separation is imminent.
View attachment 642646
Another inspection point is the outside of the case in the same area. Before and after firing take your caliper and measure just ahead of the extractor groove at the widest point. Longest case life is usually achieved when you have minimal difference in measurements before and after firing.

That is the real killer of the case... the reworking of the case base. May I make a suggestion about the paperclip over that pictured? I take plyers and squeeze the tip of the bend portion of the clip to narrow and sharpen the edge. This makes a finer feeler when running the clip against the wall of the case. A more subtle groove will be easier to feel.

Longwalker · Friday at 7:38 PM

I tried the paper clip method of inspecting cases many times. I wasn't to skillful enough for that method to work for me. I now simply throw out cases if they are suspect, or if they show a bright ring where a potential case separation looks like it's developing.
If I really want to get fancy, I use my RCBS® Case Master gauging tool. The RCBS tool has a pointed feeler that works in conjunction with an accurate dial indicator. It actually tells you the thickness of the brass at the web and case wall. If the brass is thinning at the base, the reading on the dial indicator will tell you for sure, so you don't have to rely on guesses by "feel" .

DrBob · Friday at 8:25 PM

Longwalker said:
I tried the paper clip method of inspecting cases many times. I wasn't to skillful enough for that method to work for me. I now simply throw out cases if they are suspect, or if they show a bright ring where a potential case separation looks like it's developing.
If I really want to get fancy, I use my RCBS® Case Master gauging tool. The RCBS tool has a pointed feeler that works in conjunction with an accurate dial indicator. It actually tells you the thickness of the brass at the web and case wall. If the brass is thinning at the base, the reading on the dial indicator will tell you for sure, so you don't have to rely on guesses by "feel" .

Understand.... reloading is both technical and an art. Safety above all.

Nevada Wapati · Friday at 8:58 PM

I learned one thing about the nickel cases. You can't wet tumble them with stainless pins for too long. I did it for three hours and most of the nickel cases showed a lot of the nickel flaking off. I've cut it back to 90 minutes and haven't had any more problems.

Goat416 · Friday at 9:03 PM

Has anyone ever crimped a nickel case?

Wahoo · Saturday at 12:30 AM

Goat416 said:
Has anyone ever crimped a nickel case?

I use a Lee factory crimp die on my federal .470 NE nickel plated cases. No issues I’ve seen with it.

Ridge Runner · Saturday at 12:30 AM

The only caliber I have that doesn't get crimped is 45 ACP. All others that I have get, or had, got crimped. Whether brass or nickel case, standard or magnum caliber. Especially calibers with moderate and heavt recoil, and firearms having tube magazines.

Crimping is to keep the bullet from being pushed back into the neck of the case and from coming loose with recoil.

CBH Australia · Saturday at 12:33 AM

Goat416 said:
Has anyone ever crimped a nickel case?

Only on a .357 or .38 load.

These are the only Nickel plated cases I have loaded.

I was under the impression the Nickel plating helps when passing through the die. Well I’m sure that’s what I read many years ago.

I have some factory .243 ammo that’s nickel plated. Haven’t needed to use it as I load for our rifles

Reloading Nickel vs Brass Cases

Goat416

Longwalker

Sarg

skydiver386

Wyatt Smith

Goat416

Goat416

Doug3006

Goat416

DrBob

skydiver386

Goat416

DrBob

Longwalker

DrBob

Nevada Wapati

Goat416

Wahoo

Ridge Runner

CBH Australia

Members online

Forum statistics

Proudly sponsored by

Latest posts

Latest profile posts

Share this page